GOOD TASTE BUDS

Tim Love's Love Shack Denton, Denton, TX

2011-03-31T21:02:00.001-05:00

Love, actually

The man, the myth, the menu promise to make dining on the Square a whole lot juicier

01:32 PM CDT on Thursday, March 31, 2011

By Ellen Ritscher Sackett / Staff Writer

Chef Tim Love is running behind. His executive assistant calls to say he will be 20 minutes late. He’s on his way from Fort Worth to talk about Love Shack Denton, his latest restaurant about to open just east of the Square. For months, passers-by have peered through the windows, observing the building’s transition from barbershop to burger joint. It’s almost ready — but not quite.

DMN file photo

Tim Love, pictured in 2007 just before the opening of his first Love Shack at the Fort Worth Stockyards, is preparing to open the burger joint’s third location, in Denton.

The 2007 Iron Chef America winner, instantly recognizable for his many television appearances on cooking and morning shows, walks through the front door without his crisp chef’s coat and signature white Stetson. Despite his busy morning, he appears relaxed in faded jeans, cowboy boots and a worn T-shirt that reveals a tattoo inked on a buff upper arm. He sits down and leans back in his chair as construction workers keep the place hopping, with sparks flying and the sound of drills and saws buzzing, and hammers pounding away.

This will be Love’s third gourmet hamburger establishment by the same name, Tim Love’s Love Shack, one of several restaurants he has owned over the years that run the gamut from casual to fine dining. But this one is special. It’s Love’s first venture in his hometown.

“My mom wanted me to do a restaurant in Denton — that’s the main reason I’m here. She’s excited,” says the 39-year-old culinary rock star who spent the first 18 years of his life here.

“I wanted to bring something back.”

Long before Love became a celebrity chef, he spent summers in Tennessee working on his father’s farm.

“I’ve raised almost every vegetable under the sun growing up as a kid, and same with animals,” Love says. “I raised chickens and rabbits and lambs and goats and steers.”

After Love graduated from Denton High School, he went back to Tennessee to earn double degrees in finance and marketing at the University of Knoxville. While making a little cash in various restaurant jobs, he found his calling.

“I fell in love with it,” he says. “I wanted to cook for a living.”

Love never went to culinary school, but he gained a solid foundation based on experience.

“You learn from every ingredient you touch.”

Love spent his mid-20s in Colorado, snowboarding when he wasn’t cooking for crowds. He scooped up the Taste of Breckenridge Grand Award three times and the Taste of the Mountains Award, four. He met his wife, Emilie, at the Uptown Bistro in Frisco, Colo., where he was chef. Eventually the two moved back to Texas, making their home in Fort Worth, where they now raise their three children.

LOVE SHACK DENTON

• Address: 115 E. Hickory St.
• Phone: 940-442-6834
• Hours: 11 a.m. to midnight Sunday through Thursday;
11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Friday and Saturday
• Opening date: early April
• On the Web:www.shakeyourloveshack.com

In 2000, Love opened Lonesome Dove in Cowtown’s historic downtown Stockyards district, once the Grand Central Station of livestock, where visitors can still witness daily cattle drives. Love, who calls himself a “huge meat guy,” made his mark serving what he calls “urban Western cuisine” — not only traditional high-end steaks, but rabbit, elk, rattlesnake, wild boar and even kangaroo.

Love says people often try out-of-the-ordinary meat just to say they did it.

“But can I take it and turn it into something people really like?” he says. “That’s the challenge.”

More than a decade since opening, Lonesome Dove is packed and critics rave; in fact, just last week The Dallas Morning News published a four-star review of Love’s upscale restaurant.

Just around the corner from Lonesome Dove is the original Love Shack — all 140 square feet of it — next door to the White Elephant Saloon, which is also owned by Love. The second Love Shack is located near Fort Worth’s Trinity Park and the museum district.

“We’re a different breed,” Love says. “We’re not a fast-food joint. We’re a really cool, hip, burger spot.”

The concept was born out a “what the heck” situation, he says. Love wanted to offer food to White Elephant Saloon customers, and he also needed to find a way to use the leftover trim from Lonesome Dove’s popular garlic-stuffed beef tenderloin.

“We have a lot of it,” Love says. “It’s expensive meat to just throw away.”

It took about five months for Love to develop the perfect grind and mix for his unique burger.

“We do 50 percent prime brisket and then 50 percent of tenderloin,” Love says. The combination makes a “tremendous meat patty.”

The Love burger itself is simple.

“It’s not like we have all these crazy things on the burger,” he explains. “It’s not a burger made with foie gras and blueberries or whatever.

“It’s made from really top-notch, high-quality ingredients that are all house-made,” including the pickles and the ketchup and mayonnaise that go into Love’s special Love Sauce.

The Dirty Love Burger “gets a little more exciting,” topped with wild boar bacon and a quail egg. “It’s a beautiful thing,” he says. “It’s even better with a fried portobello on it. We call that the Love and the Boom Boom. It’s awesome. It’s what I eat.”

The next order of business was developing fries that are “not like anybody else’s,” Love says. “We do a thin, plain french fry that gets pretty crispy. They’re different.”

Love devotes a huge amount of time creating the perfect eating experience, down to the width of the tomato slice.

“All of it involves the texture of one bite,” he says. “It’s hard to develop a burger where [when] you bite into it, it still tastes the same all the way around.”

The three Love Shack menus vary. The Denton menu will include chicken, fish, hot dogs, soups and salads in addition to burgers, fries and onion rings. The Denton location is the only one that will serve grilled, cured pickles. Every Love Shack serves root beer on tap and milkshakes, too.

“We don’t have five shakes on the menu, we have today’s shake,” Love says. “And today’s shake could be anything.”

The same fare will be served from opening to close. The lunchtime crowd will order at the counter and seat themselves, whereas after 5 p.m. diners will be served by waitstaff, and to-go orders will be available for pickup at a window on the west side.

Bartenders will man a full bar and pour “fun, funky cocktails,” he says, and there will be a daily happy hour from 4 to 7 p.m. Several flat-screen TVs are mounted overhead on nearly every wall.

“I’m a big sports guy. I don’t like missing any sports,” he says.

But the main focal point will be the stage flanking the east wall.

“You should be able to see the music from anywhere in the restaurant,” he says. Love says he’s a big proponent of live music, and the bands will “run the gamut.”

He says he wants his restaurant “to get heavily involved in the Denton music scene.”

“It’s such a great music town.”

Love envisioned the building to have “a spacious feel” with lots of windows and two 30-foot glass garage doors.

“The place is created to feel like you’re outside all the time,” he says.

The walls are constructed from reclaimed farm wood from South Texas. Patio seating with two giant maple trees will shade the north side, and diners can play outdoor pingpong, washers or cornhole. Love wants to create a relaxed atmosphere where customers will want to hang out for a few hours.

“The Love Shack is all about having fun,” he says.

Looking around on a recent afternoon, one can see there’s still plenty to do. Construction is not quite complete. The tables and chairs are stacked on top of each other. The staff has yet to learn the art of the food preparation and will be trained by Love himself. The city still has to give its stamp of approval, and is in the process of ensuring that the building is up to code and the health department is satisfied. So when does it open? Early April, Love says, but there’s no firm commitment yet as to an exact date.

“It’s got to be perfect,” he says. “My goal is for the food to be perfect, the service to be perfect, and whenever those things come together, that’s when we open.”

ELLEN RITSCHER SACKETT can be reached at 940-566-6845. Her e-mail address is esackett@dentonrc.com .

Soup's On ~ Soup in Denton, TX

2011-01-13T17:44:00.002-06:00

SOME LIKE IT HOT: A little spice, a lot of warmth served up in local soup

Published in the Denton Record-Chronicle, Thursday, January 13, 2011

By Ellen Ritscher Sackett

What better way to stave off the wintry chills than a piping hot bowl of homemade soup? Almost every Denton restaurant offers at least one soup on its menu, and many have revolving selections that change daily. Narrowing down this list was a challenge, but here are a few you can count on to warm you up when the temperatures drop.

MR. CHOPSTICKS

$7.25 for a large bowl.
1663 Scripture St. 940-566-5671.
Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday.
This slightly sweet, slightly spicy Vietnamese rice noodle soup makes more than a meal. Pho lovers can add chicken or beef to Mr. Chopstick’s version, which is made from a chicken-based broth rather than the more traditional beef stock. According to owner Chai Tamprateep, the quality of the broth is “crucial.”

“To have good soup, you have to have good broth,” he said.

His pho is steeped with onion, garlic and spices, which include anise, cinnamon stick, cardamom and fresh ginger. Limes, bean sprouts, jalapeno slices, cilantro and plum sauce sides come served on a plate covering the bowl, ensuring the soup will be hot when it arrives at the table. Other condiments, such as soy sauce and chili paste, are already on the table available for additional soup doctoring.

This 25-year-old Asian restaurant, which moved from Hickory Street to its current location north of the University of North Texas campus, features Chinese, Thai and Japanese cuisines. Other best-sellers? “We sell a lot of hot and sour and egg drop soup,” Tamprateep said.

LOS TOREROS

$5.99.
2900 Wind River Lane, Suite 134.
940-390-7693. Open 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday.

Those who live on the south side of town can indulge in this healthy pick from Unicorn Lake’s new upscale Mexican restaurant, Los Toreros, which took its recipe from its big sister restaurant, El Matador.

The two versions are virtually identical. They both start with chicken cooked in a tomato-based broth chock full of vegetables, including corn, carrots, celery, onion and red and green peppers. Each is topped with crispy tortilla strips and avocado.

The only difference? The cheese. El Matador’s version is laden with mozzarella, while Los Toreros comes with a slice of queso fresco. Los Toreros’ portion is for smaller appetites, but it also comes with a side of Spanish rice. Either way, you can’t go wrong.

BANTER

Cup $4, bowl $5.
219 W. Oak St. 940-565-1638.
Open 10 a.m. to midnight daily.

Tomato basil ranks right up there as the most popular soup in town, if the number of restaurants that boast a recipe is any indication.

Banter’s won this feature spot for being the most unique, with low-fat cream cheese blended with crushed tomatoes, fresh basil, garlic, salt, pepper and extra virgin olive oil. The recipe came from Michelle Kuzov, who sold the restaurant to Stephen Johnson and Ellen Ryfle in January.

Ryfle said Banter lovers need not worry; the atmosphere of the artsy downtown hangout will not change. It will still offer live music, feature local artists and continue the Thursday open mic night, one of the few left in the area. The menu will undergo a slight revision in February, but favorite dishes, including the tomato basil soup, will remain.

Try these other deserving tomato basil soups when you’re out and about town: Bochy’s, for its superb garlic infusion, Hannah’s Off the Square, for its heavy, cream-based, don’t-start-your-diet-today concoction; and Round Belly Cafe inside the Antique Experience of Denton, for one unnamed ingredient that chef Baldemar Rivera says keeps customers coming back for more.

RAMEN REPUBLIC NOODLE HOUSE

Regular $5, large $6.50, monster $8
210 E. Hickory St. 940-387-3757. Open Monday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

This is not the curly, compact, low-budget ramen that goes on sale at the grocery store in packages of 10 for $1. These are long, thin, elegant noodles that swim in broth hot off the stove.

First-time customers to Ramen Republic are walked through the five-step process of building their own noodle dishes. Picking the bowl size is the first big decision — big, bigger, biggest — followed by selecting an all-natural, low-sodium vegetable, garlic beef or ginger chicken broth.

Next, choose from one of four types of noodles and add the protein, either tofu, plain or sesame ginger chicken, slow-roasted pulled pork or Asian beef mini-meatballs. Tenderloin tips or the salmon filet are available for an additional charge as well as extras such as baby spinach, fresh basil, edamame or egg.

Lastly, a small bowl filled with your choice of veggies from the complimentary bar can be tossed into the mix while your soup is prepared behind the counter. In minutes, the meal is complete.

Ramen Republic is a place where strict vegans and shameless carnivores sit side by side, where the bland meets spicy, and hot meets cold. Owner Charlie Foster, who opened the Asian-inspired restaurant near the Industrial Street area last June, said, “There are over 1 million different bowl combinations available.” A meat-eater’s suggestion: Try the pork.

INTERNATIONAL FOODS OF DENTON

$3.99
609 Sunset St. 940-383-2051.
Open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday and from noon to 8 p.m. Sunday.

For a simple soup that’s good and good for you, try the lentil soup from International Foods of Denton, one block south of University Drive. This restaurant, which opened its doors to Denton over 16 years ago, specializes in Mediterranean, Persian, Greek and Middle Eastern cuisine.

The lentil soup is “very healthy,” said Kim Pourmorshed, who owns and operates the restaurant with her husband, Ali.

“It’s good for your stomach, your body and your hormones,” she said. In addition to crushed lentils, the soup contains a blend of carrots and onions, herbs and some secret spices that make it special, Pourmorshed said.

The ingredients are blended into a thin, smooth soup that goes down easily, a good choice for a sensitive tummy, and reheats well. Customers can ask for a side of pita bread as well, perfect for scraping the bowl to get every last drop.

THE ABBEY INN RESTAURANT AND PUB

Cup $3.99, bowl $5.99.
101 W. Hickory St. 940-566-5483. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Wednesday and 11 a.m. to midnight Thursday through Saturday.

The Abbey Inn’s French onion soup is made with beef and chicken stock added to a sweet onion, sherry and butter reduction. But what makes this version memorable is the homemade croutons — soppy-soft bite-sized pillows made from sourdough, wheatberry, pumpernickel and marble rye breads — covered by a thin layer of melted Harvarti cheese, which holds in the heat and contains the flavors.
Next time you’re in the neighborhood, stop by and check out the recent renovations in the lower level of the restaurant on the southeast corner of the downtown Square. What was once the Boiler Room, dedicated to live music, is now the Abbey Underground.
Co-owner Tim Trawick said they have added seating and are “trying to create a cozy pub environment,” which will feature 99 bottles of beer on the back wall of the bar. For now, the menu will be the same upstairs as down, so either way you can have your soup and eat it too.

GOOD EATS GRILL

Cup $2.99, bowl $3.99, add-on to a meal $1.49.
5812 N. Interstate 35. 940-387-3500. Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday.

It’s winter, so think summer, as in Indian Summer Soup — one of three of Good Eats’ soup offerings, which also include a daily special and tomato basil.
“It’s our best-selling soup,” said kitchen manager Eric Wright. The golden yellow comfort food looks as warm as it tastes, made with melted American cheese, chicken, onion, margarine, garlic, mushrooms and corn with an ever-so-slight kick from poblano pepper.

Denton is fortunate to be home to one of only three Good Eats restaurants left in Texas from a chain serving ranch-style food that started off with a bang in 1986 by E. Gene Street. Street also began the Black-eyed Pea country-style chain and several other successful Dallas-based restaurants and became a founder of Consolidated Restaurant Operations Inc., which oversees the operations of successful chains in the Dallas-Fort Worth area, such as El Chico, Cantina Laredo and III Forks as well as Good Eats.

Unlike other repeateries whose menu items are often at least partially premade, Good Eats uses all fresh produce and creates all of its recipes in-house from scratch, which makes its ranch-style meals particularly mmm, mmm good.

Freebirds World Burrito, Denton, TX

2010-09-29T10:43:00.006-05:00

Freebirds’ barrage on the senses has flavor

A version of this article was published in the Denton Record-Chronicle on Thursday, September 16, 2010.

By Ellen Ritscher Sackett / Staff Writer

Over the last 20 years, Freebirds World Burrito’s Texas-focused chain has developed something of a cult following.

Freebirds fanatics are those willing to drive for miles to get their fill of the restaurant’s burritos, tacos, nachos and the like. They hotly debate the merits of Freebirds over its national competitor, Chipotle, and describe in detail their favorite combinations from a choice of 3 trillion possibilities. They fill up “fanatic cards” with stamps, redeemable toward rewards based on accumulated purchases.

Now, fortunately, local fanatics won’t have to fill up their gas tanks to get to the closest Freebirds. As of today, Denton has one of its own.

Earlier this week, Freebirds Denton opened its doors in two days of mock trial runs, which doubled as benefits for its two local causes: the University of North Texas College of Music and the Denton State Supported Living Center. For a $5 donation, customers were invited to chow down on a custom-made meal and to experience the Freebirds culture. From its start as the joint venture between two college roommates to its more recent corporate expansion, Freebirds’ philanthropic, “change the world,” be-yourself attitude appeals largely to the college crowd and the ever-optimistic — a perfect fit for Denton.

DRC file photo/

Holding a burrito high, “Libby” sits on a custom chopper at Freebirds World Burrito. The Denton location of the Texas-centric chain is now open at Rayzor Ranch Marketplace.

Until Monday, I was among the uninitiated. Peeking through the glass windows, I could see the Statue of “Libby” suspended from the ceiling, busting through the Berlin Wall on a Voodoo custom chopper. (Later I learned this representation of freedom is found in every Freebirds restaurant.) As soon as I walked through the door, I was hit with a barrage of rock ’n’ roll and greetings from more-than-helpful employees.

A young, nose-ringed gentleman loudly suggested over the music that I try the famous burrito. He led me to the cafeteria-style fresh food line where I was introduced to Miyaka, a friendly employee with a movie-star smile who made recommendations from the freebies, extras and sauces as we went along.

Our completed collaboration was a foil-wrapped cylindrical creation stuffed inside a spinach tortilla, made with grilled chicken, black beans, rice, guacamole, lots of cilantro, red onion, roasted corn, salsa and who knows what else I agreed to. Common sense aside, I also agreed to chips and queso. Fortunately, I was starving.

As I properly unpeeled the foil, I began a lengthy journey toward the other end of the burrito. I didn’t quite make it through the seismic Tex-Mex portion. (I did, however, in spite of my big eyes and stuffed stomach, find some room for the creamy white cheese queso.)

My husband went with the more manageable carnita tacos, slow roasted since morning and slightly spicy. He gave the Sweet Leaf Tea the thumbs up, and I washed down my meal with a soda (no Coke, Pepsi). Maybe next time we’d go for a beer or try a frozen margarita. At meal’s end, we opted to throw out our used foil rather than add to the restaurant’s decor, as suggested, with artistic expressions. The new restaurant was already dotted with odd-shaped animals and shiny aluminum-foil sculptures.

The eager employees all wanted to know how we liked our first visit. We liked it. Was it, as one Facebook fanatic described, “the most bodaciously epic masticating flavorful adventure of the taste buds”?

Well, that statement might be a bit over the top, but then, "over the top" would describe Freebirds perfectly.

ELLEN RITSCHER SACKETT can be reached at 940-566-6845. Her e-mail address is esackett@dentonrc.com .

Freebirds

World Burrito

2700 W. University Drive at Rayzor Ranch Marketplace. 940-565-5400. $.

Hannah's Off the Square, 100-mile Meal, April 20, 2010

2010-04-17T11:00:00.000-05:00

MILES TO GO BEFORE WE EAT

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett
Originally published in the Denton Record-Chronicle, DentonTime, April 15, 2010

Nine summers ago, Sheena Croft arrived in Denton with nothing but her cat, her car and a small overnight bag. Excited to start a new life in Texas, her boyfriend — now husband — was about to begin graduate studies in art at the University of North Texas, while Croft, a trained chef, planned to travel around Texas to learn about its cuisine. They packed all of their belongings in a huge Ryder truck and drove in tandem from southern Georgia, stopping to spend the night in New Orleans. The next morning, they woke up to find their truck gone.

They did, however, have an apartment ready and waiting. The property management company provided them with towels and tooth- brushes. Croft’s aunt sent a care package of clothes and helped them with immediate expenses. But the stress of starting over in a new place took its toll. At a shopping excursion at Sears, the couple had a minor melt- down. It got the attention of a clerk, who called in the store manager, who listened to their story and offered them a line of credit at zero percent interest. The Sears manager also handed Croft a section of the Denton Record-Chronicle with an article about a new “Tex-French” restaurant that was opening in two weeks, called “Hannah’s Off the Square.”

“I put on clothes from my aunt and drove to Hannah’s,” Croft said.

She was determined to convince the then-owner, Eric Hill, that she was the perfect person to be chef. Unfortunately, he already had hired someone else, but Croft didn’t give up.

She told him: “I know this cuisine. I know your customer base. I worked at a restaurant just like this for three years. Let me create a menu.”

Almost a decade later, Croft is still creating menus as the restaurant’s executive chef, never leaving her Southern roots far behind. “We didn’t have fast food,” said Croft, referring to her years growing up in southern Georgia and northern Florida. Instead, her family ate what was readily available to them. “My chicken was shark tail, alligator, snapping turtle — they were all mystery white meats,” Croft said. “We’d get mussels from the river, go down to the creek and get crawfish, go deep-sea fishing where the Suwannee River enters the Gulf of Mexico. We were down there every other weekend, bring back whatever, fishing in the river behind our house, getting mullet, smoking the mullet, gathering hickory nuts for the fire, drying sassafras leaves from the tree in the backyard for gumbo filé.” Even now when Croft goes home for Christmas, she can count on being served either quail or squirrel. “My mom gets her .22 out and goes into the front yard,” she said.

Croft became particularly mindful of using fresh, local ingredients a few years ago when she read the book Plenty: Eating Locally on the 100-Mile Diet, by Alisa Smith and J.B. Mackinnon. The book inspired her to create a meal served family-style for Hannah’s patrons using only ingredients found within a 100-mile radius of Denton — all the way down to the salt. The 100-mile meal has now grown into a biannual event. Previous such meals were held in the fall, when fresh, local produce is abun- dant. However, Hannah’s upcoming 100-mile meal is the first to be held during the spring. “There’s not as much in the spring as in the fall,” Croft said. She called it “a challenge. I just want to see if I can do it.”

The 100-mile-diet concept is related to the Slow Food movement, whose focus, in part, is reducing the environmental impact of how food is brought from farm to table.

“It’s also the way of preparing food — the idea of things being cooked simply within their season, as fresh as possible,” Croft said. The dishes served Tuesday night will be based on what produce is available “right then,” Croft said. “The food really does dictate the recipes.” The menu will include soup; simple salads; sauteed greens; roasted and braised meats including beef, pork and chicken; egg dishes; and fresh strawberries and whipped cream for dessert. The meal will be accompanied by local wines selected by wine steward Jason Lastovica.

“My large food vendors have contracts with local farmers. I can order through my regular supply,” Croft said. She will also get some specialty items from small farms “at the last second.” She’ll use herbs grown in her own garden, a stash from her larder of canned goods and red wine vinegar from other seasons and 100-mile meals past, and produce from local growers through the Denton Community Market and The Cupboard Natural Foods. In addition, she has been promised amaranth (Chinese spinach) from the community garden at Bowling Green Park. “I have a plot there,” Croft said. “I put in tomatoes, lemon cucumbers, chili peppers, all kinds of stuff. I’m really excited to be able to get some things from there for the next [100-mile meal] in the fall.

$$$

Hannah's Off the Square

111 W. Mulberry, Denton, TX

940-566-1110

100-mile-meal

April 20, 2010

Reservations required. Limited Seating. $75 per person.

Arché Winery & Ancient Ovens, Saint Jo, Texas

2010-03-11T22:01:00.014-06:00

THE PERFECT PAIRING

By Ellen “EJ” Sackett
Originally published in Edible Communities DFW, Spring 2010, www.edibledfw.com

Ancient Ovens and Arché Winery go together perfectly, just like the homemade artisan bread and the fine wine they serve. Together they form the ideal date night, just an hour-and-a-half drive northwest from Dallas and Fort Worth—away from work, kids and the hustle and bustle of everyday life.  

Both are classic examples of “if you build it, they will come,” and the word is spreading about these hidden gems. Tucked away north of Saint Jo, they are located in what is unofficially called the North Texas Hill Country. Better known as the Red River Valley, the terrain resembles Central Texas with its gentle slopes and pastoral views.  Squint and you might even believe you’re in Italy.  

Hosts for the evening are Howard Davies and Amy Sterling, owners of Arché Wines and Oak Creek Vineyards, and Denis and Susan Moody, whose home is the backdrop for Ancient Ovens. The two couples are not business partners, but good neighbors who live a few miles apart. Their combined vision is to create a memorable, magical experience for their guests.  

The adventure begins at Arché. Visitors arrive at the winery in the late afternoon for a taste of red or rosé and a leisurely tour of the Oak Creek Vineyards. Arché sells its estate wine by the bottle or the case, and guests continuing to Ancient Ovens often buy some to complement their Old World Italian-style, oven-fired dinner.  Just five minutes away is Ancient Ovens at BlueDog Vista Ranch.  

From the Lookout deck, guests enjoy being served a family-style, fivecourse meal while the sun slowly disappears over Devil’s Backbone. Before long, strangers become friends. A light evening breeze crosses the valley and cools the night air. Under the tiny white patio lights, all the elements meld into one consummate, unforgettable evening.  

Arché  

Howard Davies’s first grape-growing experience began in his backyard when he was in his twenties, and his love for the grape followed him throughout his life. After a family vacation in Napa, California twelve years ago, Howard’s wife Amy encouraged him to pursue his passion and suggested a life of growing grapes commercially. They looked for land within a fifty-mile radius of their Plano home, but found it to be cost prohibitive, so they expanded their search. Finally they found what they were looking for—115 acres conducive to growing grapes, including an abandoned vineyard.  

In three short months, they cleared the property of bramble, greenbriers and scrub oak trees and replanted the wild Venus vines inherited from the original vineyard. The forty-seven more rows of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Syrah grapevines were added, more than doubling the size of Oak Creek Vineyard, and there are plans to add additional rows this year.  

Arché may well be the smallest commercial winery in Texas. The entire facility, including the tasting room, is all of 300 square feet. Visitors to Arché Winery literally walk into the factory, whatever stage of wine making is in progress. “At any given time, any number of winery operations might be going on,” says Amy. “We might be bottling, or pressing wine or doing some kind of chemical analysis.”  

Remarkably, all of Arché wine is made from its own grapes. Currently Arché produces approximately 500 cases of estate wine a year, which are available only through the winery. Its varietals and blends are made from Syrah, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon as well as the hearty, but less commonly known Roussane, Mourvèdre, Granache and Carignan grapes. Most of the rootstock came from California, but these grape varieties originate from the Bordeaux and Rhone regions of France and the northern regions of Italy.

“Those regions are more like our region,” Howard says. “These particular grapes can take the heat.” The wine choices vary because the grapes vary from year to year. This year’s wine choices are Syrah and Cabernet wines from the Ryan’s Red series, named for Howard and Amy’s middle son; Texas Rose, a popular semi-sweet wine; and Nouveau Montague 2009, a dry redblend table wine.  

The art and science of growing grapes and making wine (not to mention the business of meeting federal and state regulatory standards) keep Howard and Amy on their toes twelve months of the year. The process is labor-intensive and never-ending. Says Amy, “We start pruning in December, and we tend the vines into harvest,” which happens mainly in August, September and October. “Then we’re working pretty heavily making wine between harvest and pruning time.” Any one of a number of variables, like a draught, black rot, a late frost or a nearby 2,4-D crop dusting can send their best-laid plans plummeting.  

With the precarious life of a viticulturist, a sense of adventure comes with the territory. There’s a bit of the daredevil in both Howard and Amy, who met while racing motorcycles competitively. They left their stable jobs and suburban lifestyle to pursue their dream in the country and downsized from a 2,600-square-foot house to their current 350-square-foot home. “The easy part was making the decision,” says Howard. “The hard part was doing it.” Even making the decision about what vines to plant is a gamble, as there is no guarantee what will thrive. But the risk is also the thrill and what keeps it interesting. “We experiment to see what works,” says Howard. “Everything changes every year, and we have to be ready for it.” Howard and Amy’s sons were also bit by the bug. Patrick is the winemaker at Eagle Castle Winery in Paso Robles, California. “He’s my authority,” says Howard. Ryan helped plant many of the grapevines in record time and designed the Arché label logo, and youngest son Grayson works part-time for his parents and is currently pursuing a degree in horticulture with a concentration in viticulture at Texas Tech.  

A spirited conversation about the particulars of viticulture comes with the tour. Howard and Amy love to share what they know. For four years Howard was the Region 2 Vineyard Director for Texas Wine and Grape Growers Association, covering 54 counties in Texas. He also authored a booklet, “The Starting Point”, which explains how to start a vineyard in Texas. Says Howard, “This booklet tells you everything. It tells you where to go, who you should talk to, what region you’re in, who to contact…” With a smile he adds, “I’ll tell you more than you want to know. Amy will tell you exactly what you need to know.”

The time flies by and dinner awaits. Head back from whence you came, turn left at the next gravel road. Look for a black, bashed-in mailbox on your right. Another episode is about to begin. ’

Ancient Ovens  

The centerpiece and the reason to visit Ancient Ovens is the wood-fired oven itself. Denis built the oven in three months and finished it in February, 2007. Surrounded by rock and brick, it stands nearly ten feet tall, eight feet deep and six feet wide. The inside space, which includes the walls, hearth and arches, can handle as many as five pizzas or twenty loaves of bread at one time. Constructed from 330 fire bricks that retain the heat necessary for this Old World method of baking, the oven can heat up to 850 degrees, baking the pizzas to a bubbly crisp within minutes. Denis tends the fire and cooks the meal here, while Intrigued onlookers sit on benches under the covered pavilion.  

Denis always dreamt of building an outdoor wood-fired oven like those he saw in his Navy days when he was deployed to Italy for extended stays. “The food is just so good coming out of them,” Denis says. After he retired from the military, he looked for something else to do. One day when Susan was surfing the Internet, she stumbled upon North House School of Folk Learning in Grand Marias, Minnesota, which offered a seminar in how to build the ovens. Denis immediately took the class.  

At first Denis intended to build the ovens as his main enterprise— “for other people’s backyards,” he says—but when the housing market tanked, so did his plans. Meanwhile, he built the Lookout, a large deck beyond the oven overlooking the valley.  

Susan, who had no previous formal training as a baker, went to North House to take a four-day, wood-fire method baking class. “A lot of it is trial by error and just learning the feel of the oven,” she says. “I can stick my hand in it and without even looking at the thermometer, know if it’s too hot to bake bread. I can just sense it.” They hosted parties for family and friends and soon were getting requests to host large gatherings at their home. In April, 2009 they officially began doing business full-time as Ancient Ovens with help from their son Chris, who has also learned the art of wood-fired baking, and daughter Eryn, who helps with the preparation and serves the guests.  

They perfected what is now their standard five-course meal, which has been modified over time. “Like a lot of restaurants in Italy, we serve one type of meal,” says Denis. “That’s our staple, and we’ve served it for close to a year-and-a-half now. People keep coming back and coming back.” This meal at Ancient Ovens is bread-based, starting with Susan’s rustic artisan country bread, made from an 80-year-old starter, and served with a rich spinach and artichoke dip glazed with garlic butter in a hot cast iron pan. Next is Susan’s own creation, Italian Teardrops, made with olive cream cheese and spices wrapped in a pasta pastry and seasoned with garlic, butter and herbs. For the main course, guests may choose one of the thin-crusted Neapolitan-style pizzas, topped with a variety of ingredients depending on what is fresh and available. (With prior notice, Ancient Ovens can accommodate dietary concerns. For example, if someone is lactose intolerant, they will substitute olive oil for the cheese.) The meal is finito with a decadent dark chocolate hazelnut dessert pizza made with Nutella. Magnifico!  

Many of the ingredients used to make the meal come from Susan’s organic garden, including Roma tomatoes, basil, oregano, rosemary and garlic. They compost hay and add vegetable scraps to worm castings to enrich the soil. “We want to get more sustainable, more local and be more mindful of where our food comes from,” says Susan.  In addition to growing herbs and vegetables, they also raise cattle and free range chickens. Susan uses the eggs in her baked goods and sells them to the local feed store, and they have processed their own chickens as well. The Moodys frequent Fischer’s—“one of the most happening small grocery stores in Texas,” according to Denis—which sells local produce, especially in the spring and summer. Ancient Ovens also buys its Italian sausage and Canadian bacon from Fischer’s, which processes and packages its own sausages and cheeses. He adds, “By patronizing local stores in the community, we’re helping them sustain themselves. It works hand in hand.”

Traveling around the world as a naval officer to 23 different countries during his thirty years of service gave Denis perspective. “Quite a significant portion of the world’s population still lives like this. This is their norm. It made me think,” says Denis. “We lived quite a few years in Euless, and we thought, ‘This is just not us. We’ve got to get out and get some more room,’” says Denis. “I don’t think either one of us ever had a plan to be here, at this level of earthiness, but we sure like it!” Ancient Ovens is primarily an outdoor venue, but over the past winter, Denis and Chris, with help from Howard, built a kitchen, a teaching space for Susan’s baking classes and an indoor dining room surrounded by glass. This new addition will also include a second wood-fire oven And year ‘round seating and protection from inclement weather.  

Rather than driving home late at night, visitors might consider turning the trip into a short staycation by booking a room at the quaint Texas King’s Hotel, directly across from Saint Jo’s historic town square. Guests stay in one of five charming guestrooms at the inn, renovated from two turn-of-the-century buildings. Because the hotel does not keep regular hours and is only open by arrangement, reservations must be made well in advance.  

Finding Arché Winery and Ancient Ovens isn’t easy, but follow the map we’ve included, then remember that once you are on Hwy 677 and you stumble upon your first breathtaking vista, you’re almost there.

Arché Winery
228 Wagner Road, Saint Jo, Texas 76265
214-908-9055 or 214-536-6330
www.archewines.com
Hours: 11 a.m. to dark, Wednesdays through Sundays and by appointment. Wine can be purchased by the bottle or by the case for a 10% discount. No reservations required. Children are welcome but must be supervised.

Ancient Ovens
At BlueDog Vista Ranch, 857 Childress Road, Saint Jo, Texas 76265
940-366-4255
www.ancientovens.com
Hours: 7 p.m. Thursdays, Fridays & Saturdays and by appointment
Advance reservations by telephone required.

Texas King's Hotel
104 S. Broad Street, Saint Jo, Texas 76265
940-995-2565
www.texaskingshotel.com
Hours: By appointment only
Advance reservations required.
Call or e-mail: reservations@texaskingshotel.com

Originally published in Edible Communities DFW, Spring 2010
www.edibledfw.com

Buffet King Chinese Cuisine, Mongolian Grill & Sushi, Denton, TX

2010-03-08T20:50:00.004-06:00

ALL YOU CAN EAT CHINESE AND MORE

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

If eating out at a Chinese buffet is your thing, you're not alone. Buffet King, Denton's newest such restaurant has only been open a few months, yet it's drawing the crowds. Easily accessible near the southeast intersection of I-35 and Loop 288 near the Golden Triangle Mall, expect a wait on a Friday and Saturday night, but not for long. The line moves quickly. The dining room seats hundreds at a time and the serve-yourself style lends itself to an almost fast-food experience.

While not exactly cheap dining, customers certainly get their money's worth. The fixed-price buffet has an extraordinary amount of options from which to choose--over 200, in fact. You'll find what you expect at a Chinese buffet, like Sweet and Sour Chicken, Pepper Steak and Lo Mein. But this restaurant also offers a sushi bar with several kinds of Nigiri and Japanese-style rolls as well as a Mongolian grill station, where customers choose from variety of meats and veggies that are cooked on a large circular grill while you wait.

Oftentimes quantity affects quality in buffet-style dining, but here the food doesn't have a chance to dry out or get cold. The meat dishes are flavorful but not too spicy, and the vegetables aren't overcooked. The food tastes fresh, the way it often looks at a buffet, but rarely is. Seafood lovers can chow down on unlimited amounts of crab legs, shrimp and mussels. Don't forget to try the tasty pork potstickers, found near the hot and sour and egg drop soups, and make a point to try the green beans that have just the right amount of crisp to them.

Children have options too. There's pizza and chicken drumsticks, and rows of desserts to tempt the sweetest sweettooths. Fortunately, for those who are trying to watch their weight, there's a little hope, as fresh fruit, such as cantaloupe and grapes, are available in addition to the puddings, cakes, soft-serve ice cream and other sugary delights.

While most customers clammer for the buffet, diners can also order off the menu. Lunch specials and combinations plates offer good values and can be made to suits one's taste, be it mild, medium or hot. Take out is also available. The restaurant is cheery and clean with bright chandeliers, neon signs and flat-screen TVs, the service is friendly, and the food, while not exceptional, caters to the hungry. For large parties, quick business lunches, and family nights out, Buffet King rules.

$-$$

Buffet King

2251 S. Loop 288, Denton, TX

940-387-0888

Hours:

Lunch ~ Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

Dinner ~ Monday through Thursday, 3:31 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 3:31 p.m. through 10 p.m.

Sunday ~ All day dinner buffet from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Also posted on www.dentoncountyfare.com .

Vercelli's Pasta and Pizza, Krum, Texas

2010-03-06T23:04:00.004-06:00

WE ALL SCREAM FOR POUTINE!

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Earlier this week we bid a sad adieu to the 2010 Winter Olympics held in Vancouver, British Columbia. Some of us will miss duking it out with our northern neighbor, but I, for one, found myself rooting for the Canadians as well. Not only did they snag most the gold medals won at any Winter Olympic Games, they were true sportsmen and women, and good-humored, gracious hosts. Canada has lots of reasons to be proud.

For the Denton Record-Chronicle/Scott Sackett

Authentic poutine is on the menu at Vercelli’s Pasta and Pizza in downtown Krum, Texas.

In their honor, I say we chow down on a Canadian favorite: poutine — French fries topped with white cheese curds, covered in a beef-based brown gravy. Its origins aren’t precisely known; however, most agree the poutine craze began in Quebec in the 1960s. Now it’s served up in greasy spoons and fast-food chains throughout the country. Even women’s figuring skating bronze medalist Joannie Rochette is known to indulge. Canada’s quintessential comfort food is also referred to as one of Canada’s guiltiest pleasures — and is another source of national pride.

Fortunately, we don’t have to travel to the Great White North to find it — in fact, we don’t even have to cross the county line. Authentic poutine is on the menu at Vercelli’s Pasta and Pizza in downtown Krum.

Why is a French-Canadian dish available at an Italian restaurant in a small North Texas town? Jane Flores, who owns the restaurant with her mother is originally from Quebec, and they brought the recipe with them.

Their basic poutine is made from hand-cut French fries. The poutine gravy is imported from Quebec and the white cheddar cheese curds are shipped overnight from Wisconsin. The rubbery cheese has to be squeaky. (Squeaky? That’s the sound the curds make when you bite into them. It means they are extremely fresh.)

Vercelli’s also offers an Italian poutine, which substitutes a rich, tomatoey meat sauce for the gravy. You can also try frites sauce or frites italienne, versions of the two recipes without the cheese. (But then it’s not really poutine.)

By the way, while you’re at Vercelli’s, don’t forget to congratulate the Italians. They might not have won big at the Olympics, but they sure take the prize for lasagna.

Vercelli’s Pasta and Pizza, 208 W. McCart St., Krum, TX 940-482-6051.

A version was originally published in Denton Record-Chronicle, March 4, 2010

Siam Off the Square Thai Restaurant, Denton, TX

2010-02-18T22:25:00.011-06:00

FLAVORS AS BOLD AS THE COLORS

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Walk into the vestibule of Siam Off the Square Thai Restaurant, and you’ll be greeted by Monique the mannequin, who on any given day may sport a traditional Thai dress, football jersey or cowboy hat.

For the DRC/Scott Sackett

Vivid purple, lime green and orange are the predominating colors at Siam Off the Square Thai Restaurant. The food’s colorful, too.

“She’s even worn lingerie,” says Russel Mills, who owns the restaurant with his wife, Noon, the restaurant’s chef. Without cracking a smile, he adds, “It’s too cold for that this time of year.”

Noon Mills laughs. Today Monique has on Mardi Gras beads, “for the Saints,” Noon Mills explains, referring to New Orleans’ recent Super Bowl win.

Next to Monique is a ceramic lime-green Buddha with a grin as wide as Noon’s. He matches the color of the top half of the restaurant’s walls perfectly, in contrast to the orange below and the purple tablecloths.

His presence foreshadows what customers can expect to find at Siam Off the Square — it’s “full of happy energy,” Noon Mills said.

Finding the restaurant isn’t easy if you don’t know where to look.

Its physical address is Hickory Street, but it’s actually on the corner of Cedar and Walnut streets. The space was once part of Russell’s Department Store and has been home to several restaurants, including the original Hannah’s Off the Square, hence the similar name.

While Hannah’s expanded when it moved to Mulberry Street, Siam Off the Square downsized from its 17-year home in Carriage Square.

“We love our new location,” Noon Mills said. “The Square is a community within a community.”

Russel Mills said businesses on the Square have supported them.

“We brought our clientele with us, which in turn supports other businesses on the Square,” he said.

Customers will find the same quality food at the new location as they did the old. The menu includes a variety of appetizers, curries, stir-fry dishes and pad thai.

Noon Mills’ mother, from Phuket Island in southern Thailand, provides the curry paste. She is an important influence on her daughter’s cooking, as is Noon Mill’s Chinese heritage.

“Not all dishes are spicy,” she said, “but you can expect them to be tasty.”

The menu changes with the seasons. The Millses buy locally and use fresh ingredients as much as possible. Their daily specials feature what is plentiful. They love their restaurant and customers, many of whom have become friends over the years.

“Come out and see us,” said Russel Mills.

His wife added, “We love to make people happy.”

$-$$

Siam Off the Square Thai Restuarant
209 W. Hickory Street, Suite 104, Denton, TX
940-382-5118
www.siamoffthesquare.com
Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday,
5 p.m. to 9 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

Originally published in Denton Record-Chronicle, DentonTime, February 18, 2010

Frilly's Seafood Bayou Kitchen, Denton, Texas

2010-02-11T17:58:00.003-06:00

THE OTHER WHITE MEATS

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Forgive me. I might be the only person in North Texas who didn’t watch the Super Bowl. I know, I heard. That wasn’t the game to miss. It wasn’t just good, it was great.

DRC/Ellen Sackett

Frilly’s Seafood Bayou Kitchen boasts frog legs and alligator on the menu.

To be honest, I’m only so-so interested in professional football, unless it’s the Dallas Cowboys. I figure Jerry Jones could use one more person telling him how to run his team, and Tony Romo wants to feel the love, especially since Jessica is out of the picture. Otherwise, I root for the team with the finest uniforms.

Since the Cowboys didn’t make it to the Super Bowl, I prayed for New Orleans. I needed the Saints to win. Moreover, I needed a good excuse to write about frog legs and alligators. Some of you are probably thinking I should’ve cheered for the Colts.
Seriously, though, have you tried them? Frog legs and alligator are popular dishes in N’awlins, and when you see one on the menu, you usually find the other. You can find them at both Frilly’s locations in Denton, which specialize in Cajun cuisine. (FYI: The two restaurants prepare their food differently as they are owned by different proprietors.)

Usually when I think Cajun, my mouth waters for dishes with andouille sausage, bowls of red jambalaya and shrimp gumbo, and plates piled high with blackened catfish or crawfish etouffee, with dirty rice and jalapeno corn bread. You can get all those good eats at both Frilly’s, too. I was on a mission for frog legs and alligator, however — which, despite their popularity in the South, haven’t quite made it to America’s Top 10 of favorite foods.

I ordered mine fried from Frilly’s Seafood Bayou Kitchen, with a side of red beans and rice. They came with seafood cocktail sauce and tartar sauce for dipping. I started with the alligator, which, covered in batter, looked a lot like popcorn shrimp. It even had a bit of a chewy, shrimp-like texture but more closely resembled cooked turkey breast.

The frog legs were surprisingly meaty, despite their tiny drumstick size. I expected them to taste like chicken, but they definitely didn’t. Instead they tasted like — well — frog legs. They were very fresh and somewhat gamey, more flavorful than the alligator.

I can’t say I’m a big fan, but I’m happy for the Saints. By all accounts, they played well and deserved to beat the Colts. But even if they had lost, there’s no way I would’ve tried horse meat.

$-$$

Frilly’s Seafood Bayou Kitchen
1925 Denison St. 940-243-2126.

Frilly’s South Cajun Kitchen
2303 S. Interstate 35E.
940-898-1404.

Originally published in the Denton Record Chronicle, February 11, 2010.

Cafe Du Luxe, Denton, Texas

2010-01-22T11:09:00.005-06:00

MUGS AND WINE GLASSES HOBNOB

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett (for Denton Record-Chronicle)

Cafe Du Luxe isn’t Denton’s best-kept secret. Since it opened five months ago, the word is spreading: It’s a great place to meet friends for conversation and a cup of coffee, a light meal or a glass of fine wine. Owner David Carles describes his cafe as “upscale casual” and says it “provides a choice that raises the quality” in the area. That choice includes freshly roasted coffee beans, both familiar and relatively unknown wines, and healthy yet inexpensive menu items for breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert. “We appeal to the North Texas business and medical professionals and give them another alternative to Starbucks and coffeehouses that largely appeal to students,” he said.

Cafe Du Luxe is located in Market Square at Unicorn Lake, where it’s a logical stop for a bite before or after a movie at Cinemark Denton. In addition to convenience, the cafe offers happy hour from 4 to 7 p.m. on weekdays, featuring half-price appetizers and $1 off house beer and wines.

Commuters can whip into the drive-through for a specialty coffee fix, brewed “the old-fashioned way,” Carles said. “We use authentic Italian espresso equipment. We grind and dose and tamp and pull the shots by hand. None of it is automated.”

The coffees are designed around a music theme, named after the voices in a choir — the lighter the roast, the higher the voice. The beans come to the cafe extremely fresh.

“We order our coffee from our roaster on Monday; they roast for us on Tuesday; our coffee arrives here Wednesday or Thursday,” Carles said.

Cafe Du Luxe specializes in some “high-quality but relatively unknown” Chilean wines that can’t be purchased at the local grocery, Carles said. The wine list offers a variety and appeals to those who lean toward the familiar as well as aficionados who are more adventurous. Beer drinkers shouldn’t feel left out: Domestic and imported brews are available, too.

Food and drink aren’t the only reasons to come to Cafe Du Luxe; another is the atmosphere. One wall is dedicated to displaying work by regional artists. The exhibit changes monthly, with an artist’s reception every third Sunday. On Saturday evenings, Bill Metzger and Perrin Grace perform light jazz on electric guitar and upright bass. Book clubs, church groups and writers meet regularly to exchange information and ideas.

People can “come in jeans or come in a suit, either way,” Carles said.

It took four years from conception to completion to create Cafe Du Luxe, and it came out almost exactly as Carles envisioned it.

“People are still trying to figure out who we are and what we do,” he said. “We want the word to get out [because] we have something unique to offer.”

$

CAFE DU LUXE
3101 Unicorn Lake Blvd., Denton, TX
940-382-7070
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 5:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, 5:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday, 6 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.
www.cafeduluxe.com

Originally published in Denton Record-Chronicle, January 21, 2010

GTB FARE SQUARE

2010-01-13T20:44:00.001-06:00

Korean Rice Dish Sizzles!

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Try a food that’s as fun to order it is to eat! “Bibim Bop (BEE-bim-bahp) served in a Hot Stone Bowl” is a traditional Korean all-in-one meal, and it’s also Royal East Asian Cuisine’s most popular dish. It’s more accurately called Dohl-sot Bibim Bop—not to be confused with Bibim Bop—which is not served in a hot stone bowl.

There’s lots of ways to spell it: Dohl-sot, dolsot, bibimbap, bibimbab, bibimbob, bibimbop--even b-bop, for short! It’s all the same thing. Literally translated, “dohl-sot” means “stone pot” and “bibim bop” means “mixed rice”. Even though there are as many ways to make it, the basic recipe includes three main ingredients: rice, vegetables and meat.

Royal East’s stone bowl arrives at the table too hot to touch. White rice is mixed with thin shreds of bulgogi (beef marinated in soy sauce), carrots, potato, spinach, soybean sprouts and the root of royal fern. All this has been added to sizzling sesame oil that carmelizes with the rice along the bottom of the bowl and turns it a crispy brown. On top sits a fried egg, over-easy. (Some versions use a raw egg.) The server breaks the yolk and combines the ingredients, still cooking away inside the hot stone bowl. He adds red chili sauce for spiciness, and I add a little soy sauce for flavor.

But that’s not all. Dohl-sot Bibim Bop also comes with banchan, typical Korean side dishes served at every meal, especially kimchi, Korea’s famous pickled cabbage with a kick, and often times cucumber kimchi, another variation on that theme, as well as other seasoned vegetables.

Dohl-sot Bibim Bop, priced at $10.95 at dinner ($8.95 at lunch), doesn’t come with a money-back guarantee, but no worries. Even the pickiest eaters will come back for more of this warm and wondrous Korean comfort food.

Royal East Asian Cuisine (Korean, Sushi, Japanese)
1622-A W. University Drive, Denton
(940) 383-7633
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Also published in Denton Record-Chronicle, January 14, 2010

GTB TIPS ~ New Year's Eve in Downtown Dallas

2009-12-28T23:50:00.005-06:00

WHAT ARE YOU DOING NEW YEAR'S EVE?

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

It's party time! Have you made your New Year's plans? If Dallas is your home, consider viewing the city of glass, glitz and glamour from inside its glowing globe--atop the downtown landmark, Reunion Tower.

If you hurry, you still can snag a late-night dinner reservation at Five Sixty by Wolfgang Puck. Dallas’ newest, hottest restaurant offers a gorgeous revolving 360º view of the city 560 feet below and Asian-inspired cuisine by the famous celebrity chef. The New Year’s Eve menu features a five-course, fixed-price dinner with several options from which to choose for $145 per person ($185 with wine), plus tax and tip. Five Sixty is Puck’s first fine dining venture in Dallas, and adventurous palates can't help but appreciate this master chef's unique and creative fare. Thursday night's meal begins with Oscetra caviar. Included in the first course is Crispy “General Tso Style” Texas Quail followed by Arctic Char, Suckling Pig or Kobe Beef Carpaccio. Seafood lovers will love trying Puck's “Shanghai Style” Maine Lobster or his pan-seared scallops. The fourth course features a choice of Mongolian Lamb Chops, Petite Beef Filet “Au Poivre”, Honey Ginger Glazed Pork Loin or a Kobe NY Strip Steak. For dessert, how about a spiced banana cake with jivara chocolate mousse, chocolate coconut streusel and carmel gelato, a vanilla brioche bread pudding or finish the meal with a cheese, apple and quince preserve medley. For a more complete description of this and other Wolfgang Puck restaurants and cuisine, go to www.wolfgangpuck.com. You can also make your reservations through Open Table at www.opentable.com.

For fun without the formality, there will be live music and a buffet bar at Reunion Tower on the Event Dining Level from 8:30 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. for $95 per person (cash bar) or $150 per person (platinum hosted bar), plus taxes and gratuities.

The Reunion Tower Observation Deck Celebration starts at 9 p.m. and continues past Old Lang Syne until 1 a.m. The package costs $125 per person (plus taxes and tip) and includes appetizers, a platinum-hosted bar and a champagne toast at midnight. For reservations for either the buffet bar or the observation deck celebration, call 214-571-5710 or e-mail reuniontower@wolfgangpuck.com.

You might want to get some last minute culture in before the partying begins. The Dallas Symphony Orchestra will be performing at the Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Center on 2301 Flora Street beginning at 7:30 p.m. on New Years Eve. This concert, conducted by British conductor James Judd, will feature light classical music, including waltzes and polkas in the European tradition of New Year’s celebrations. Go to www.dallassysmphony.com or call 214-692-0203 to reserve your tickets. (P.S. Save a little and get great seats by purchasing tickets in the Choral Terrace. These seats are located behind the orchestra, where you get a close-up look at the musicians in action and a frontal view of the conductor leading the band. It’s as close to being in the symphony as you can get without playing a note!)

Another entertainment option on New Year’s Eve is The Lincoln Center Theater Production of Rodgers & Hammerstein’s musical, South Pacific. The show starts at 7:30 p.m. at Dallas’ pride and joy, the brand spankin’ new Margot and Bill Winspear Opera House, 2403 Flora Street in Dallas. Ticket prices range from $30 to $98. Go to www.dallsperformingarts.org or call 214-880-0202 to purchase tickets.

After the party's over, crash at the Hyatt Regency Dallas hotel, adjacent to Reunion Tower. To make your reservations, go to www.hyattregencydallas.com or call 800-233-1234. The best part? In the morning, you might have a hangover, but you won’t have a DUI.

Now that's the way to ring in 2010. Happy New Year, everyone!

$$$$

Five Sixty By Wolfgang Puck
300 Reunion Blvd. Dallas, TX
(214)741-5560
www.wolfgangpuck.com

GTB RECIPES

2009-12-22T00:11:00.008-06:00

BUTTER CRUMSHUS CAKE IS SCRUMPTIOUS!

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Food and family. They go together inextricably during the holidays. In our family, the meal (and the hours spent in the kitchen preparing for it) is as much an event as the day itself. A single bite can bring back a flood of memories--a sort of real-life time travel--that keeps the past alive, perfectly merging it with the present.

Growing up, every celebration of "The Big Two" (Thanksgiving and Christmas) began first thing in the morning with the clan's unanimous favorite: Butter Crumshus Cake, named as such because of its scrumptious crumb topping. On Thanksgiving, Butter Crumshus Cake tied us over until turkey time, and on Christmas, we children looked forward to our slice just as much as the presents we were about to open.

Mom could have made this recipe anytime of the year, but she didn't. She saved Butter Crumshus Cake for special. This, even more than the recipe itself, is how a tradition was made.

Here's what she wrote about it in her 1992 cookbook called "Kiss the Cook", written with my father, Dick Ritscher: "Sometimes traditions are born inauspiciously. This delightful breakfast cake, introduced to me by New Fairfield, Conecticut, neighbor Delores Rupple, tastes best the day after it's made. The hustle of Christmas dinner preparations make an easy-to-make, do-ahead cake a logical choice for Christmas Day breakfast. I'll serve it again this year." (Betty Ann Ritscher)

BUTTER CRUMSHUS CAKE

Ingredients

Topping:
3/8 cup unsalted butter
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
3/4 cup light brown sugar, packed
Cake:
1/2 cup butter
1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese
1-1/4 cups granulated sugar
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 cup milk

Directions:
1. For the topping, blend butter, flour, and brouwn sugar with a pastry blender in a small bowl. Set aside.
2. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer or by hand, cream butter, cream cheese, and sugar until light and fluffy.
3. Blend in 2 eggs, one at a time; add vanilla and mix well.
4. In another bowl, folk stir flour, baking powder, and baking soda.
5. Add the dry ingredients alternatively with milk to the butter mixture. Beat until smooth.
6. Pour the batter into a 13- x 9- x 2-inch pan which has been greased and dusted with flour. Top batter with crumb topping.
7. Bake in an oven preheated to 350 degrees F for 35 to 40 minutes, or until the cake is lightly browned and edges pull away from sides of the pan. Cover tightly until time to serve. Freezes well.

###

Ravelin Bakery, Denton, TX

2009-11-20T14:34:00.008-06:00

AS EASY AS PIE!
Take One Home for Thanksgiving

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Have I got pies for you! Ravelin Bakery is baking pies, sweet pastries and other doughy delights to order for the holidays. With Thanksgiving less than a week away, make haste while the batter's hot. You'll be sure to impress the family with a crust that's flakier than Grandma's. But don't wait until the last minute to decide; it gets pretty busy in the Ravelin kitchen this time of year. Orders are available for pick-up through Wednesday, November 25 (except Monday when the store is closed).

Here's the Thanksgiving Menu:

9" Bread Pudding ~ $32.00
9" Old-fashioned Chocolate Cake ~ $40.95
Pecan Pie ~ $20.50
Chocolate Pecan Pie ~ $21.50
Pumpkin Pie ~ $13.75
Sweet Potato Pie ~ $13.75
Buttermilk Pie ~ $16.50
Key Lime Pie ~ $16.00
Apple Pie ~ $18.50
Cherry Pie ~ $23.00
Apple Almond Tart ~ $23.00
Cherry Almond Tart ~ $23.00
Cherry Struedel ~ $16.00
Apple Struedel ~ $16.00
Pumpkin Bread ~ $4.95
Mini Croissants (1 dozen) ~ $11.00

Cranberry Pecan Bread will also be available on the day before Thanksgiving in addition to Ravelin's fresh artisan breads, made with their own starter. Breads available daily include country sourdough, hearty five-grain, three seed, Bavarian rye, French loaf and baguettes.

Be on the lookout after Thanksgiving for Ravelin's holiday table, which will include baked goodies you can give as presents, such as packaged breads and cookies, fruitcake and traditional German Stollen.

Even if you don't need help with your holiday meals, stop by Ravelin's sometime for a sumptious breakfast pastry, cookie or coffee cake, and pour yourself a cup of coffee to go with. Ravelin also bakes cakes in a variety of sizes to order with one or two day's notice. While you're there, don't forget to pick up a loaf of one of the specialty breads--the list changes daily.

Ravelin Bakery is a not-so-secret secret. Owners Eric and Pamela Helland don't have to advertise, nor do they have a website. Nonetheless, the word is out. Since they opened their doors to Denton eight years ago, they built their success on providing quality baked goods made with whole, all natural ingredients, 100% from scratch. What more need I say?

$$

Ravelin Bakery
416 S. Elm Street, Denton, Texas
(940) 382-8561

Hours: Tuesday through Saturday ~ 6:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Sunday ~ 8 a.m. to 5:30 p.m.
Closed Monday

Thanksgiving Hours:
Closed Thursday & Friday, November 26 & 27
Open regular hours on Saturday & Sunday, November 28 & 29

Smashburger, Addison, Texas

2009-11-18T15:31:00.011-06:00

SMASHBURGER IS A HIT!

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Attention hamburger hounds! There's a new quick bite in town. Smashburger just opened its first Dallas location in the north suburb of Addison on Belt Line Road. With so many places to choose from along restaurant row, it might be tough for yet another to succeed. So what makes Smashburger special?

In fact, what the heck is a Smashburger?

It starts with a ball of fresh--not-frozen--100% certified Angus beef that's literally smashed on a buttered grill for ten seconds with a cookie-cutter-style press. This searing process locks in the juices, and then the meat patty is seasoned with Smashburger's garlic and herb mix. Put it on a soft Artisan-style bun and add the extras to order. The end result? A five-napkin burger that tastes as good or better than homemade--ready to eat in about six minutes. How can you beat that?

There's several variations on the Smashburger theme: the Classic, the All American, the Lonestar (developed especially for Dallas taste buds), the BBQ Bacon and Cheese, the Spicy Baja and the Mushroom Swiss. Or make your own from a combination of the menu-item ingredients.The best part? All of the ingredients are fresh, not frozen. The meat is delivered daily. The veggies aren't pre-packaged; they're cut on site. The seasonings and sauces are Smashburger's proprietary recipes. This is high-quality, cooked-to-order fast food.

What's a burger without fries? Smashfries are of the retro, shoestring style. They're deep-fat fried in tallow and oil, mixed with rosemary, extra virgin olive oil and garlic. The Sweet Potato Smashfries are made the same way, crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. There's also the Chili, Cheese or combination Chili-Cheese Fries. Veggie Frites is a yummy, albiet greasy, fries substitute: a slightly-crunchy combination of flash-fried asparagus, carrot sticks and green beans. Another notable side is the tasty fried dill pickles served with a creamy buttermilk ranch dressing.

And what's a burger and fries without a shake? Take your pick of a vanilla, chocolate or strawberry shake or malt with the consistency of soft-serve, blended with whole milk and Haagen-Daz ice cream. The tangy fresh lime shake was not-too-sweet, and the classic root beer float could double for dessert.

Smashburger doesn't only serve up hamburgers. The Smashburger concept works for chicken as well. Unfortunately, most chicken sandwiches take a while to cook and are often dry as a result. Smashburger solves both problems by pounding the chicken breast thin first before searing. You could mistake the Smashchicken for a healthy option, but only if you ignore the butter. Hot dog lovers have three to choose from: Classic, Chili Cheese or DFW Dog, split and made to order, dolled up how you like it and served on a toasted poppy seed bun. If you don't eat meat, order one of three salads, but have 'em hold the bacon. Here too you can have it your way.

No Smashburgers near you? No worries. The two-year-old Denver-based chain is just getting started. Within the Dallas and Fort Worth metroplex, there's another thirty franchises on their way, and nationwide, there's hundreds more to come. Smashburger hasn't sold billions and billions of hamburgers--yet. But just wait. Smashburger is well on its way.

$

Smashburger
Belt Line Road & Dallas Parkway
4980 Belt Line Road, Addison, Texas 75254
www.smashburger.com (Order online through the Smashburger website)
(214) 884-1124
Hours: 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily

Old West Cafe, Sanger, Texas

2009-10-28T16:26:00.024-05:00

WHERE THE OLD WEST CAFE BEGINS

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

It's just after 6 a.m., and the door has just opened at The Old West Cafe in Sanger, Texas. Already three white pick-up trucks are parked in front with customers awaiting breakfast. This is a typical morning for the owners. Mark is hidden behind the scenes in the kitchen, and Carolyn, his wife, is starting her day in Denton at their sister restaurant by the same name.

The wait staff is ready. The coffee flows first, and the orders are taken. More customers dribble in, young and old, and soon the place is filled with the clatter of plates and the chatter of conversation. Some come in jeans, others in cam-o, all hungry, all anticipating what will likely be their best and biggest meal of the day. One can only hope.

Before long, heavy, overloaded plates arrive at the tables, stacked as many as three and four deep up the waitress' arms. Eggs, bacon and grits; three-egg omelets stuffed with sausage, veggies and cheese; pancakes stacked high; burritos with a side of homemade salsa and iron skillet dishes with everything including the kitchen sink. The menu items are cleverly named to conjure images of the wild, wild west. There's the Alamo, The Indian, The Bandit, The Gunslinger. The Warrior omelet, made with grilled chicken, "might make you squat with yer spurs on" and the Texan, made with your choice of sausage, ham or bacon, onion and bell pepper, and three kinds of cheese will make you "hold on to your boot straps." Hold on, little doggie! This is what you call a real breakfast.

"Can I getcha anything, hon?"

I put in my order and point to my coffee cup. The waitress is back to fill it in a jif. I reach for a packet of Sweet 'n' Low next to the sugar across the table. My elbow sticks to the surface as the varnish has been wiped down so many times, it's soft. A voice from my childhood reminds me this is not a horse's stable. I adjust my posture, shake the contents of the package in my mug and take a sip.

My bowl of steamy oatmeal, raisins and brown sugar arrives with side of fruit from a jar. As I eat, I observe in awe as a stout young man wearing a cowboy hat devours a burrito half the size of a football. I wonder how it can be done, although I doubt his eyes are bigger than his stomach. Sure enough, by the time he finishes, he's eaten the whole thing, plus a generous side of crispy hashbrowns with ketchup along with it.

At the next table, a young mother in pink sweats lean over to pick up her toddler's sippy cup off the dark-stained cement floor. A middle-aged couple sit at the table in the corner, holding their hands in silent prayer. Behind them on the recycled tin-lined wall, a wooden plaque reads, "Now that my kids are teenagers, I know why some animals eat their young." Across the room an old-timer with stubble for a beard sits by himself. He smiles a toothless grin at his pony-tailed waitress, who calls him by his name, which I can't quite catch. Hanging on to her arm, he says something that makes her laugh as she slides his check between the salt and pepper shakers.

I catch her eye as she leaves his table and ask her for his ticket. She nods and retraces her steps, whisking it out from under his nose before he has a chance to notice. I feel like I've won a prize--today's pay-it-forward recipient--and head to the cashier's counter to pay up. I'll be gone before the gentleman notices I've left.

Before long, the place will be revving up for the lunch crowd in addition to serving its all-day breakfast. The restaurant has built a steady stream of loyal customers in twelve years. These are good folks who don't mind paying a fair price for home-style cookin' and service that rivals any five-star restaurant. They know a good deal. Despite the economy, business is holding its own. In fact, another location is on its way in Grapevine, and if the Sanger and Denton locations are any indication, soon-to-be regulars will find their way to it as well.

So where does the Old West Cafe end? There's no telling how far it'll go or for how long. But God willing, the Old West Cafe will continue 'til the cows come home.

$

Old West Cafe
711 W. 5th Street, Sanger, TX (940) 458-7358
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 2 p.m., Sunday, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.

1020 Dallas Drive, Denton (940) 382-8220
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 2 p.m., Sunday, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.

600-A W. Northwest Hwy., Grapevine
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 2 p.m., Sunday, 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.

www.oldwestcafe.us

GTB RECIPES

2009-10-27T16:55:00.007-05:00

A DIP BY ANY OTHER NAME

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Call it Fiesta Dip, Italian Salsa or Texas Caviar—my latest, greatest recipe goes by several names. You can always have the basic ingredients stowed in your pantry, then add fresh ingredients in addition to the basic recipe to your liking. You can dish it up several ways too. Serve it with yellow, red and blue corn chips as a colorful dip. Toss it into pre-packaged lettuce with some roasted chicken from the supermarket or add it on top of a baked potato for a quick, healthy dinner. Double the recipe for a batch that will feed a crowd or to have nibble food to have on hand, as it keeps well in the fridge for up to a week in an airtight container. It's often the hit of the party, so be prepared to share the recipe—in fact, feel free to send your friends to this link. Thank you, Carol, for giving this recipe to me.

Here's my version of Fiesta Dip:

Basic Recipe

Combine in a large bowl:

1 28 oz. can Ro-Tel Tomatoes (Original ~ Diced Tomatoes & Green Chilis), drained
1 15 oz. can black-eyed peas, drained
1 15 oz. can black beans, drained
1 11 oz. can shoe peg corn, drained

¼ to ½ bottle of an oil-based (not creamy) Zesty Italian dressing ~ just enough to coat the ingredients ~ NOTE: Do NOT add the dressing until after all ingredients, including any additional ingredients, have been added. It should be your last step.

Suggestion: Keep the liquids to a minimum. Spoon out any extra that seeps through to the bottom of the bowl. You can even rinse the beans, black-eyed peas and corn, then dry them with paper towels.

Additional Ingredients (The more you add, the better)
½ c. onion (any variety)
½ to 1 cup fresh cilantro
(or more, if you're like me and really love the flavor of cilantro!)
2 medium hot-house tomatoes, cut into small chunks
1 small to medium green pepper and/or red pepper
2 stalks celery
(If you'd like it hotter, you can add jalapeños, crushed red pepper or sprinkle on Tony Sachere's Cajun seasoning)

What's your version? Feel free to contribute your variations on this theme. I'd love to try your ideas in my next batch. Even if you don't have a gmail account, no worries. Just sign on as "Anonymous". You can add your name at the end of your comment.

FARE SQUARE

2009-10-26T14:53:00.005-05:00

YES, YOU CAN HAVE YOUR CAKE

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Have you eaten your vegetables today? You can get all your servings in one fell swoop by ordering a slice of carrot cake from Hannah's Off-the-Square. Each cake is made with two pounds of carrots (never mind the sugar), which will surely improve your eyesight and elevate your mood. It looks as incredible as it tastes, covered with cream cheese icing, spaghetti-length curly-Q strands of fresh carrots and a slice of orange. These aren't just for show. Combine the citrus with the crunchy and the creamy, and you'll have a sensory experience like none other that will leave you giddy for more. It's possible to get more, too. Order a few days ahead, and you can purchase an entire carrot cake to take home for $30 plus tax. (Psssst, the recipe is hush-hush, so don't even ask.)

Hannah's Off-the Square, 111 West Mulberry, Denton, Texas
(940) 566-1110 www.hannahsoffthesquare.com
Hours:
Lunch - Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Brunch - Saturday & Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Dinner - Sunday & Monday, 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Tues through Thurs 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Happy Hour - Monday through Friday, 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Pourhouse Sports Grill, Denton, Texas

2009-10-20T20:14:00.020-05:00

SCORE IT BIG AT POURHOUSE SPORTS GRILL

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

You don't have to love sports to love Pourhouse Sports Grill--but it helps. Bright paintings of sports super heroes at their peak and large flat-screen HDTVs surround the spacious main dining room and hang above the bar. You can't ignore the action of a different game on every channel, which can be a bit distracting when you're trying to engage in dinner conversation. But hey, it's a sports bar. That's what it's all about. Almost.

This isn't the kind of sports bar that's full of rowdy fanatics, screaming obscenities at the televisions (although sometimes there are a few who get pretty excited). No, this is a classy place where you'd comfortable bringing your grandparents for drinks and a pleasant, not too expensive meal. The beer, wine, specialty drink and martini list is impressive, and there are daily happy hour specials. The menu covers the gamut, and the portions would feed a starving football team at the end of a too-close-to-call game.

You can expect to find typical bar food at Pourhouse, but with a whole lot more variety. Light up your taste buds with the trash can nachos, a serious amount of queso, chili, jalapeños, tomatoes and sour cream piled over red, blue and yellow corn chips. Instead of a plain 'ol burger, have one with a kick, like the Baja Burger made with Jack Cheese and fried jalapeños, or try to wrap your mouth around the bleu burger that comes with a sweet port wine sauce, roasted shallots and a huge hunk of bleu cheese on top. Another good choice is the Pourhouse's version of a club sandwich--the Homerun Grilled Club--cut into quarters, with turkey, ham, applewood smoked bacon, tomatoes, American cheese and barbecue sauce on sourdough bread. Combine it with a side of drippy, mayonnaise-y coleslaw, a big fat helping of big fat French fries or sweet potato fries and a cold, draft Franconia for a perfect sports bar kind of meal.

If you're looking for something you don't readily find in Texas, order the Classic Cuban sandwich that could pass for German, made with sliced pork and ham and covered with melted Swiss cheese on a grilled ciabatta roll with mustard and a dill pickle. Texans usually have to venture up north for a French Dipped Sandwich, but Pourhouse makes its own version of a pot roast beef sandwich on a French roll with carmelized onions, served au jus. That's French for "with its own juice", but here in Denton we say, "Good for soppin'."

The Pourhouse's thin-crusted, wood-fired pizzas stand out for their fresh ingredients. The combinations, such as the BBQ Chicken or the Hawaiian made with ham and pineapple, might a little adventurous for some pallets but are worth a try. My favorite is the Margherita, made with sliced tomatoes and tomato sauce, mozzarella, sprinkled with fresh basil. Customers can also create their custom pizza from a selective list of ingredients. One pizza is plenty to share as an appetizer or will feed a hungry person as a meal.

Specialty main courses of the Pourhouse include: a chicken fried steak smothered with creamy gravy touted as "The Real Deal"; southern fried shrimp, hand-breaded and comes with cocktail sauce, creole tartar sauce, or spice orange marmalade; a juicy rotisserie chicken, a 12-ounce black Angus rib eye grilled to your liking and the chef's private recipe of shrimp creole, served over spicy rice, which our server from Louisiana said was her favorite dish on the menu. Each of these comes with two vegetable or potato side dishes.

Healthy-minded diners will love the generous salads. The Rotisserie Chicken Chop Salad is an attractive arrangement of roasted chicken, tomatoes, corn, black beans and avocado layered over lettuce. The Country Cobb is equally delicious, made with smoked bacon, smoked turkey, mozzarella, avocado, tomatoes and a hard-boiled egg. Seafood lovers will favor the Seafood Cobb, and you can never go wrong with Chicken Caesar.

But who wants to be healthy? Finish off the meal with dessert. There's something for everybody's sweet tooth. Tops on my list is the brownie bottom sundae, starting with a chewy pecan brownie topped with vanilla ice cream, homemade chocolate sauce, and for overkill, a dollop of whipped cream. The warm white chocolate bread pudding soaked in a hot buttery rum sauce, is equally rich, and cobbler fans can take a chance on the unusual carmel-covered apple walnut concoction with a scoop of vanilla ice cream atop a hard, square wafer. For a lighter dessert, go for the tangy key lime pie.

The Pourhouse's lunch menu, offered Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., is reasonably priced at $6.49 and includes smaller portions of many dinner menu selections. A kid's menu is available too with the usual child-friendly choices: mac and cheese, corny dog, chicken strips, a kid's burger or a mini- cheese or pepperoni pizza.

Make sure to check out the theater-style media room, which boasts a gigonormous 110-inch TV/projector flanked by four smaller, but still large flatscreen TVs, and a state-of-the-art sound system. The room seats up to 75 people and is available for parties and business presentations. Semi-private areas for smaller parties from 8 to 18 people can also be reserved ahead of time with the events coordinator. Pourhouse also provides in-house catering.

But you say you're not a sports fan? You're still in luck. Pourhouse has one of the best outdoor seating areas in this part of Texas, feet away from the banks of Unicorn Lake. You may have to put up with some smoke or a rambunctious table, but the serene view at sunset with a glass of Merlot will take you down a notch. At that point, who cares about the noise or whose team is losing? You've already won.

$-$$

Pourhouse Sports Grill, 3350 Unicorn Lake Blvd, Denton, TX
(940) 484-7455 ~ www.pourhousegrill.com
E-mail: info@pourhousegrill.com
Hours: Sunday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 12 p.m.

Rohmer's Restaurant & Catering, Muenster, Texas

2009-10-10T16:58:00.014-05:00

GOT BRAT?

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

We were on a hunt for brat--that is, bratwurst. The destination? Muenster, Texas, a small community west of Gainesville best known for its annual Germanfest which draws crowds from all over the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex.

The otherwise sleepy, dusty town seems permanently stuck in the 70s, at least from the looks of it along Hwy 82. Although we knew of its reputation for having the best German food in the region, we were clueless as to how to find it.

A quick Google search with the help of my iPhone led us to Rohmer's. It was easy to find the stone-covered building on the north side of Hwy 82. Several cars and a row of motorcycles were in the parking lot, even at 1:30 in the afternoon, which we took as a good sign. According to the blog, "Regular Joe's Guide", Rohmer's makes Weiner schnitzel the way it's supposed to be: "crispy and lightly seasoned" and it said the sausages were "wonderful". Based on this recommendation, we gave Rohmer's a go.

While we weren't exactly expecting buxom blondes in dirndls with fist-fulls of beer steins to greet us at the door, we surely weren't expecting a Denny's-style sign directing us to seat ourselves either. The place could've passed for a typical small-town coffee joint, a place where you don't go for the atmosphere.

The German menu is limited and only makes up a small portion of Rohmer's offerings: four dinner plates with chicken or pork schnitzel and bratwurst and sausage, or the same thing made into sandwiches--but well worth the drive. I opted for Regular Joe's recommendation, the traditional pork Weiner schnitzel, although I was tempted by the grilled reuben sandwich. My companion opted for the bratwurst. Both plates came with a good-sized helping of sauerkraut and German Potato salad, which gave me the urge to yodel. The rough-skined biker boys (and girls) in their leathers at a nearby table made me think better of it. Because there was no apple streudel on the menu, we didn't have any; otherwise, we would have.

Since we came for authentic German food, we weren't even a little tempted by the rest of the restaurant's many choices, however delicious they might be. The selections included hamburgers, several cuts of steaks, fish fillets and breaded shrimp, chicken fried steak, fried chicken and a marinated Hawaiian chicken with grilled pineapple, barbecue pork ribs and beef brisket, and Mexican quesadillas and enchiladas. Sides some with some meals and not others. A basic soup and salad bar is also available.

On the way out, we chatted with daughter of Rohmer's founder, Dina Sicking, a friendly woman, determined to carry on what her father started. She and her husband now run Rohmer's Restaurant, which opened its doors in 1953 in a quaint stone building which has since been knocked down and replaced with the current structure. A replica sits on a counter behind the cash register. While the newer building hasn't the charm of the old, it better serves the needs of the restaurant. According to Sicking, the old was dilapidated beyond repair. To strangers' eyes, the building was nothing special, but to her, it represents progress.

Before we left, I took a photograph of the retro Rohmer's sign that announces the restaurant to roadside travelers. I had to smile. While the town may be slow to move with the times, and the restaurant owners don't seem to be all that interested in capitalizing on its German roots, we still found what we were looking for. The
genuine article. No more, no less. Das ist alles, und alle ist genug.

$

Rohmer's Restaurant and Catering
217 East Division Street ~ Muenster, TX
940-759-2973
Open Monday through Saturday for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Crickles and Co., Corinth, Texas

2009-10-09T11:06:00.013-05:00

MAKE IT CRICKLELIOUS!

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

If it weren't for a Facebook post from a friend who lives on the opposite side of Dallas from me, I would have never known about Crickles and Company, a yummy breakfast place, right in my own backyard. It's funny I never heard of Crickles before. There's not many restaurants in Corinth, Texas, and I know them all. Or so I thought.

But there's a good reason why this particular one missed my radar. Crickles and Co. subleases space in another restaurant, NY Sub Hub, in a strip mall off of Swisher Road, and is only in operation from 6:30 to 10 a.m. Only a free-standing easel in front helps to entice potenial customers, and since this is not a heavily trafficked area in the morning, Crickles must rely largely on advertising and word of mouth.

There's not a lot of atmosphere given that the location is a sub shop, but the good food makes up for the decor. For a to-go-style joint, the breakfast menu was surprisingly extensive. It was hard to choose between the many breakfast taco combinations, which all use eggs and cheddar cheese as their basis. The Breakfast Taco Baskets also come with Rosemary Potatoes and homemade salsa. If you're hungrier, you can create your own ommelette from thirteen ingredients, or if you just want something light to take on the road, the breakfast croissants and sandwiches will do the trick. Pancake and French toast lovers can slather syrup to their heart's content here too.

I had a South of the Border Burrito without the sausage. The flour tortilla containing egg, cheese, potato, onion, and tomatoes arrived hot, wrapped in foil. For the price, I was disappointed in its size but not the flavor. It came with a side of the salsa, and the owner presented me with a taste of warm peaches and cream. Made with canned peach slices, the idea was better than the execution.

Still hungry, I went back for little extra something sweet. I was torn between the Sticky Bun and the Cinnamon Roll, tempting me on the counter. I went with the roll, covered with a cream cheese frosting, which melted into the pastry once warmed in the microwave--making it a truly sinful breakfast dessert. I was told by the owner that her daughter is the baker, who has culinary training and has worked at such fine dining restaurants as Craft Restaurant in the W Hotel and The French Room at the Adolphus Hotel in Dallas.

A glance at the Crickles website gave me more insight. Sweets and pastries are their specialty, and in addition to the menu choices, they also offer cheesecakes, cookies, layer cakes, pies and cobbles, as well as squares and bars.

Crickles and Co. also caters. Some suggested themed meals are: a barbecue buffet, a gameday spread, an Italian feast, a Mexican fiesta and a Texas Chili buffet. Within each theme are a variety of main course options and side dishes as well as desserts.

If you're hungry and are on your way north from Dallas to Oklahoma during the early hours, or if you are headed south to Dallas on your morning commute, consider taking the time to exit Swisher Road for a bite at Crickles and Co. It's worth going a little out of your way.

$

Crickles and Co.
4271 FM 2181, Suite 308 (Off of Swisher Road in the Albertson's Shopping Area near Radio Shack)
Corinth, TX
Breakfast Served Monday through Saturday, 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
(214) 476-2568
(940) 497-2530

GTB RECIPES

2009-01-07T21:26:00.008-06:00

COUNTING ON MY CROCK

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

My Crock Pot is my most faithful chum. We shared our first apartment, and together we created hearty meals on hectic days and lonely winter nights. She was a quiet, reliable roommate, ready and waiting for me on the kitchen counter at the end of a long day. Because of her, I always looked forward to coming home.

It had been a while since I'd seen her. Years ago I pushed my stalwart companion away, believing I'd outgrown her simple ways. Then cold winds blew from the north, reminding me of the many good times we shared. I didn't have look far to find my dear friend. She was right where I left her and hadn't changed a bit. Seeing her sturdy physique again brought back warm memories, and I swore that I would never, ever forget her again.

Here's an unforgettable recipe—one of my Crock Pot's best:

Crock Pot Chili

1-1/2 to 2 lbs. ground beef
1 cup coarsely chopped onion
2 14-1/2 oz. cans whole tomatoes, drained
1 green pepper, chopped and seeded
2 to 3 T. chili powder, depending on how spicy you want the chili to be
1 tsp. ground cumin
1 tsp. ground black pepper
salt to taste
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed (optional)

Brown ground beef and chopped onions in a large skillet. Drain excess fat before adding the ingredients to the slow cooker. Add the rest of the ingredients and stir thoroughly. Cover and cook on slow heat for 7 to 9 hours. Cook for 3 to 5 hours on high heat. Serves 6 to 8.

GTB RECIPES

2009-01-04T07:55:00.008-06:00

CAMPING OMELET

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

How do you make an omelet with no butter and no frying pan? It's easy! Here's the recipe, passed on to me by my friend Herbert Holl.

All you need are the ingredients, Zip-lock freezer bags to put them in, and a large pot of boiling water. You can create several individualized omelets and cook them at the same time. Just remember to label each bag with a waterproof marker, such as a Sharpie, so you know which omelet is whose!

First, line a glass with the Zip-lock bag. While this step isn't necessary, it makes loading the ingredients into the bag much easier. Next, crack your eggs into the bag. You can substitute egg whites or Egg Beaters if you prefer. Add whatever vegetables and shredded cheese you like; however, any meats should be pre-cooked. Seal the bag and shake the ingredients together to mix them, making sure to squish the eggs to break the yolks. Open the bag again, and then decompress the air out of of it. Seal it, drop it in the boiling water, and let it cook for fifteen minutes. Particularly if you are making more than one omelet, watch the bags carefully to keep them from melting against the side of the pot.

The result? The fluffiest omelet you've ever tasted! And it's healthy too without the extra fat. Best of all, there's no mess to clean up--just throw away the bag when you're through. Great idea, huh?

Burgundy Restaurant, Denton, Texas

2009-01-03T19:44:00.009-06:00

LOVE IS AT THE HEART OF BURGUNDY

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Now that New Years is out of the way, it's time to be thinking ahead to the next big holiday: Valentine's Day. With just over a month away, it's time to make those reservations now to take your sweetie out for an expensive romantic dinner.

In Denton, Texas, my choice for date night is Burgundy Restaurant, opulent without being pretentious, decorated in rich, warm golds and deep reds as the name suggests. It is located west of the Downtown Square, next to the Campus Theatre. (Unfortunately, the Campus is dark on Valentine's Day this year, but check its Web site at www.campustheatre.com for upcoming events to combine dinner at Burgundy with a live performance.)

At Burgundy, you'll be greeted by the door by Tony Huda or his wife, Melissa, whose heart and soul touches every aspect of the dining experience. Simply put, they love their restaurant and want you to love it too.

Before you are seated, cuddle up with a drink on the black leather couch by the entrance. If it's your first date, you may want to sit at the beautiful back-lit bar and chat with Tony or watch a bit of the ballgame on the big screen HDTV. Burgundy has a fine wine list and a full assortment of liquor. Take your time to decide. Dinner awaits, but there's no rush.

The dining room is cozy, but the tables are far enough apart that you won't be disturbed by neighboring guests. If you are fortunate, first-class jazz guitarist Joseph Gomez will be performing quietly in the corner, or you may hear Frank Sinatra piped in overhead. Kick off your heels under the table, ladies. What's a romantic dinner without a little footsie with your tootsie?

The servers are friendly, yet professional. They are informed about the menu, offered on a one-page board that isn't extensive, but selective. Burgundy mainly serves seafood and steak, although there is one lamb dish, a duck au poivre, and a chicken entreé as well. The Steak and Lobster Tail combo, rarely offered at Denton restaurants, is an occasional specialty of the house. The Shrimp Tower served over rice is excellent and reliable, and any of the steak cuts (Bone-in Rib-Eye with Peppercorn, New York Strip, and the Filet Mignon) are done to perfection as you like them. The Sea Scallop over spinach is another satisfying choice, and the Seabass In Orange Terragon Beure Blanc over Sauteed Zucchini and Squash never fails to please.

The portions are not large at Burgundy, so you may want to choose an appetizer or salad before the main course. A plain white bread basket comes with three choices of butter: sweet, fruit and jalapeño, and a sorbet sample comes between courses to cleanse the palette--other nice touches from the Hudas for their guests. Vegetarians may want to choose from the side dishes ala carte, but for $6 each, the amounts are small.

Follow dinner with dessert with coffee or a port wine, and then hold hands while you take a stroll around the historical Denton Square, lit year-round with twinkly white lights. This completes the perfect romantic evening--or who knows? Perhaps your night out at Burgundy will be the perfect prelude to a romantic evening in.

$$$

Burgundy Restaurant, 222 W Hickory Street, Denton, Texas
(940) 384-1800

PLEASE NOTE: We are sad to report as of December 2009, Burgundy is no longer in business.

Hours:
Open for dinner only, Mondays through Saturdays, 4:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Closed on Sundays

Jazz Café, Fort Worth, Texas

2009-01-02T18:07:00.004-06:00

FLAVOR OF GREECE FOUND IN FORT WORTH

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Stumble upon Jazz Café in Fort Worth near the Arts District and step
into the Old World. This weathered Mediterranean-style escape offers a
flavor of Greece that extends beyond its gyros, tabouleh and falafel.
From the chipped Neptune sculpture, the faded plastic flamingos, and
retired pay phone to an antique scuba helmet, mounted marlin, and
family photos—everything has a story.

The most expensive menu item is among its best—the sliced Eggplant
Parmesan, lightly breaded, then grilled in olive oil, smothered with
melted mozzarella with fresh rosemary bread. Open wide for one of
several ample-sized sandwiches or go for a traditional Greek salad.
The Tex-Mex fare is surprisingly tasty, particularly the black bean
enchiladas in corn tortillas.

The restaurant is open for lunch seven days a week and adds breakfast
on weekends. Come for live jazz on Sundays, but don't be in a rush.
The service is as laid back as the music and the place itself.

$

Jazz Cafe
2504 Montgomery Street, Fort Worth, Texas
(817) 737-0043;'

Hours:
Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Saturday, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Sunday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

GTB RECIPES

2008-12-30T22:16:00.003-06:00

SECRET REVEALED: SAVORY SNACK FOR SURPRISE GUESTS

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Coming up with nibble food for drop-in guests isn't magic. It takes more than smoke and mirrors, although planning for the unexpected and knowing a few shortcuts helps. I've got a few tricks up my sleeve. This is one of them.

This hors d'oeuvre can be prepared in seconds—with no sleight of hands!—and makes even the most impromptu gathering special. Plus, the recipe is incredibly versatile. You can adapt it according to what's in your pantry. As long as you have cream cheese, some kind of fruit preserve and a mild cracker, you're good to go. Try Stonewall Kitchen's Roasted Garlic Onion Jam, which can be purchased online at www.stonewallkitchen.com and at specialty kitchen stores, or try one of many Polaner All Fruit products, made with 100% fruit and fruit juices, available at most local grocery stores. Red or Green Pepper Jelly makes for a particularly delicious and festive holiday appetizer. Experiment with various jams and jellies to find your favorite combination. Then make sure you have an extra jar on hand so the next time someone arrives at your door unannounced, you won't have to pull a rabbit out of the hat.

Cream Cheese Starter

1 8 oz. package of plain cream cheese

1 small jar of jam, jelly or marmalade

1 pkg. Wheat Thins (or mild cracker)

Unwrap cream cheese package and place in the center of a serving dish. Smother it with your choice of fruit jam, jelly or marmalade, allowing the preserve to dribble over the sides. Surround the cream cheese and fruit preserve with Wheat Thins. Voila! Now watch your guests make it vanish!

GTB RECIPES

2008-12-05T08:33:00.005-06:00

PERK UP YOUR COFFEE

Adding a kick to your coffee is easy! Just add a few shakes of ground cinnamon on top of your coffee grounds before you brew. You don't have to invest in expensive beans, although the higher they are in quality, the better your coffee will taste. But even ordinary canned or freeze-dried coffee will benefit from a touch of spice.

Make Cinnamon Mocha by dissolving a teaspoon or two of instant Hot Chocolate to your cinnamon coffee, especially special on a blustery day. Mmmmmmmm……!

III Forks Restaurant, Dallas, Texas

2008-12-02T12:17:00.012-06:00

III FORKS GETS FOUR STARS

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

At III Forks, you'll find the grandeur one comes to expect from a high-dollar Dallas steakhouse. It's a manly man's restaurant, classy and comfortable with an aura of elegance, decorated with brass and elk horn chandeliers, high ceilings and dark wood, leather-cushioned chairs, and tables covered in white tablecloths. I half expected to see J.R. Ewing show up with his entourage; rather, here's where real-life power negotiations and boardroom deals go down.

Through a twist of circumstances, my family and I ended up at III Forks for Thanksgiving dinner and enjoyed a near-perfect experience with a few surprises. The first was its price—$42.95 for adults and $14.95 for children under 12—meager compared to other fixed-price meals in town. This four-course meal included soup, salad, a choice of two entrées and one of four desserts. We were told there were reservations for 2,300 on the books for that day. Fortunately, III Fork's sixteen dining rooms, named after Texas war heroes, are spacious enough to handle big crowds without feeling crowded.

To put us in a festive mood, we started with a holiday twist on the Mimosa: a combination of champagne and cranberry instead of orange juice aptly named "Poinsettia." Soon after we placed our dinner order, the thin, broth- not cream-based tomato basil soup arrived, closely followed by a spring green mix topped with blue cheese crumbles, slices of green apple and III Forks' delectable maple walnut pecan vinaigrette. The slow-roasted turkey dribbled with Grandma's giblet gravy wasn't memorable, but the juicy Chateaubriand with Bordelaise Sauce was tender enough to cut with a fork. Both meals came with crunchy, lightly-coated snap peas and whipped potatoes with chives and scallions. The turkey dinner included orange-infused yams, a healthier substitute from the standard syrupy marshmallow-coated recipe, a hearty sausage cornbread dressing, and a tart cranberry puree dollop. The generous portion of steak came with off-the-cob creamed corn that was as much cream as corn. It was such a hit that our waiter brought an additional family-style portion of the for us to share.

Our waiters, Duane and Brandon, were on top of their game, rarely beyond calling distance for our every need. Duane's recommendation to go with the Pumpkin Pie Cake with homemade whipped cream was a good call, although I was tempted by the Chestnut Ice Cream with Chocolate Orange Sauce. A few bites of the Kentucky Bourbon Pecan Pie were enough to satisfy my sweet tooth, as dense as it was rich. The other choice was Cheesecake with Raspberry Sauce.

I checked out III Fork's pricey but choice evening menu, which features USDA Prime beef and fish, accompanied by the III Forks salad and the off-the cob creamed corn we had at Thanksgiving. I'll be going for the Bone-in Rib Eye or the Veal Chop, or maybe I'll give the Australian or Southern Fried Lobster Tail a go. Next time we'll make a point to order from III Fork's impressive wine selection that offers over 900 varieties. We don't need any excuse, like another holiday, to make another trek to III Forks. Any meal at III Forks would be a special occasion.

$$$-$$$$

III Forks Restaurant
17776 Dallas Parkway
Dallas, TX 75287
972-267-1776
www.iiiforks.com
(Additional locations in Austin, Texas and Palm Beach Gardens, Florida)

Hours:
Open 7 days a week, closed for lunch
Sunday, 5 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Monday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m

GTB RECIPES

2008-11-29T10:58:00.003-06:00

TRIED AND TRUE PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

I bought myself an early Christmas present last week—a retro-red electric mixer. It had been a while since I'd baked anything. To break in my new toy, I decided to make my mother's peanut butter cookies. The recipe makes a bunch, a great choice for cookie swap parties, and they freeze well so you can make them ahead of time to have on hand for starving children and unexpected guests.

Thank goodness for Mom. I don't know what I'd do without her on the other end of the phone, walking me through each step, from "Do you know if brown sugar has an expiration date?" to "It's me again. Do you know how many sticks of butter there are to a cup?" to "Which do you want to hear first: the good news or the bad news?" to "Mom, I've got to go—I smell smoke!"

This recipe is foolproof. I can vouch for this, since this batch survived ad-libbing the amounts of baking powder and baking soda (since the measuring spoons were MIA), accidently bumping the spatula into the spinning beaters and breaking off the tip (thankfully found intact in the dough), forgetting to add flour until the last minute (lordy, that dough is awfully sticky), and finally, almost burning the house down (I did put the oven on bake, not broil, didn't I?).

Okay, so I'm not a great cook, but I love to eat peanut butter cookies. You will too, after you try this recipe:

Mom's Peanut Butter Cookies
(from "Kiss the Cook", a family cookbook by Betty Ann and Dick Ritscher, 1997).

(Suggestions from Mom: "For extra crunch, make 'em with crunchy peanut butter. I sometimes add a cup of mini-chocolate chips to the batter.")

1 cup minus 2 tablespoons butter (or margarine)
1 cup peanut butter
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed
2 eggs
2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1-1/2 tsp. baking soda
2 or 3 tablespoons wheat germ (optional)

1. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer, thoroughly mix butter, peanut butter, granulated and brown sugars and eggs.

2. In a small bowl, fork-stir flour with baking powder, baking soda, and wheat germ.

3. Add the dry ingredients to the peanut butter mixture and beat until smooth. Cover bowl and refrigerate until the dough is well chilled.

4. Roll dough into balls the size of large walnuts. Place them 3 inches apart on a lightly greased baking sheet. Dip a fork in flour and flatten each ball in a criss-cross pattern.

5. Bake in an oven preheated to 375 degrees F until cookies are light brown, about 10 to 12 minutes. Watch them carefully; they should be set, but not hard. Cool on a wire rack Store in tin with a tight-fitting lid. These cookies freeze well.

Yield: About 5 dozen cookies.

Originally published in Keller Citizen 2008 Holiday Guide.

Rudy's Country Store and B-B-Q, Denton, Texas (near DFW)

2008-11-19T11:27:00.004-06:00

RUDY'S B-B-Q SAVES THE DAY!

It was 10:30 a.m. I had an outdoor party to throw and only a few hours to prepare for it. The guest of honor was a friend visiting from Japan, and we wanted to show him a good ol' Texas time. At first, I planned on going to the supermarket and picking up hamburger fixin's and a few sides from the grocery deli. But then it dawned on me: What could be better than to offer our Japanese guest barbecue?

I remembered a barbecue joint along the highway I hadn't been to in a while. It was a friendly place, where customers stood in line to place their order, choose their beer from an ice-filled trough, then chose from one of many folding chairs along the rows of tables lined up like a church social. Taking a chance, I stopped in to see if Rudy's could help me at the last minute.

The young woman behind the counter at the front of Rudy's Country Store was an expert in handling to-go orders and catered events. She offered several recommendations and gave me samples to taste. After considering the options, I ended up with a combination of smoked brisket, turkey, sausage, St. Louis ribs and a couple of chickens with sides of creamed corn and coleslaw. The price, on par with what I expected to pay at the grocery store, included one regular and one "sissy" bottle of Rudy's B-B-Q sause [sic], pickles, onions, jalapeños, cutlery, napkins and even a plastic table cloth! I was set.

For more money, I could've added pork loin and chopped beef, or one of the other sides such as potato salad, pinto beans, green bean salad or corn-on-the-cob. Dessert is another add-on, which includes a choice of banana pudding or peach cobbler, and ice tea, both sweetened and unsweetened, are available.

I made arrangements to pick up my order at 1 p.m. and it was ready to go when I arrived. Several employees armed with foil tins lined up to carry the food to my car. Each tray was clearly labeled, so unpacking the steaming contents once I arrived at my destination was a cinch. I have never thrown a party with such ease.

The party was a hit. My guests raved about the tender meat, and one of them even said it was the best barbecue he'd ever had. I could've made a meal on the creamed corn alone. My Japanese friend enjoyed the Texas-style tradition too. The best part? I had time to enjoy myself and my friends. The next time I throw a party, I'll remember Rudy's.

$-$$

Rudy's Country Store and B-B-Q
520 South IH-35 E, Denton, Texas 76205
(940) 484-7839
(Additional locations in Carlisle and Coors, NM; Norman, OK, as well as Amarillo, Austin, Brownsville, College Station, Corpus Christi, Del Rio, El Paso, Frisco, Laredo, Leon Springs, Lubbock, New Braunfels, Pharr, Round Rock, Sea World, Selma, Spring, Tyler and Waco, TX.)
www.rudysbbq.com

GTB GADGETS

2008-11-16T07:59:00.003-06:00

KUHN RIKON'S PARING KNIFE MAKES THE CUT

If I could have one kitchen utensil what would it be? I'd pick Kuhn Rikon's lightweight paring knife from Switzerland that's easy to grip and slices with perfect precision. It has a plastic handle and comes with a matching sheath to protect the sharp, non-stick 3-3/4 inch blade. This handy tool comes in a variety of cheery colors so it never gets lost in a crowded drawer and is priced right at around $10. The Kuhn Rikon paring knife makes an ideal present for any level chef and can be purchased online at Sur la Table (www.surlatable.com) or at specialty kitchen stores. ~ ej

GTB RECIPES

2008-11-15T10:52:00.003-06:00

A THANKSGIVING DINNER FAVORITE: CRANBERRY ORANGE RELISH

by Ellen EJ Sackett

Thanksgiving is around the corner, and I'm already salivating. Who can resist turkey with cornbread dressing, baked sweet potato casserole with a gooey marshmallow topping, melt-in-your-mouth crescent rolls, and pumpkin pie topped with a dollop of fresh whipped cream? Can't you hear my tummy growling?

But my all-time favorite is homemade cranberry-orange relish, a perfect meld of sugary-sweet, tart and tangy that's so yum, it'll reform even the most adamant anti-cranberrians. This easy-to-make side dish tastes better if prepared ahead of time and keeps well in the fridge for days after—that is, if it isn't gobbled up first. If you do run out, Christmas will be here soon, and you can serve it then too. That's what I do.

Fresh Cranberry Orange Relish

1 (12-ounce) package fresh or frozen Cranberries, rinsed and drained
1 unpeeled orange, seeded, and cut into eighths
3/4 to 1 cup granulated sugar

Place half the cranberries and half the orange slices in food processor container. Process until mixture is evenly chopped. Transfer to a bowl. Repeat with remaining cranberries and orange slices. Stir in sugar. Store in refrigerator or freezer.
Makes about 3 cups.
Note: May also be prepared in a food grinder.
Basic recipe courtesy of Ocean Spray Cranberries, Inc.

Optional ingredients can be added to this basic recipe. Here are a few suggestions:
One tart green apple, cut into small pieces
One cup coarsely chopped pecans
1/4 cup dried currants
Here's another suggestion: Slather it on sourdough bread for extra special sandwiches made with leftover turkey.

Café Pinot, Los Angeles, California

2008-11-12T13:51:00.013-06:00

CAFE PINOT: OUTDOOR ELEGANCE IN THE HEART OF L.A.

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

An evening spent at Café Pinot is an evening well spent. In the heart of downtown Los Angeles, this Patina Group restaurant sits on some of the best real estate in the city near the Los Angeles Public Library, adjacent to Maguire Park at Flowers and Fifth Streets.

My party arrived for a light, late evening dinner and sat on the outdoor patio. Immediately we were transported from the high-energy urban setting to a serene garden atmosphere. Delicate white lights strung from the trees twinkled above us and candles flickered on the tables as we settled in for an easy, relaxing meal.

Our server expertly guided us through the wine and menu selections, which required some explanation, until we landed upon our choices. We began with a basic California red and two appetizers: the lightly-breaded Dungeness crab cake with Asian pear, lemongrass aioli and a small lettuce salad and the Seared Hudson Valley Valley fois gras complemented by a mountain huckleberry sauce with pistachio and frisée (curly endive). Both choices were exquisite and rich, although I favored the crab cake combination. My entrée selection was the rotisserie of free range chicken with three grain mustard and pinot fries, a safe bet compared to the more unusual fare, such as the farm-raised rabbit, lavendar [sic] poached loin, pot-roasted leg, autumn bean cassoulet, and braised Tuscan kale, or the Wagyu beef cap loin, porcini ravioli, roasted root vegetables with salsify mousseline. The chicken was tender, just as expected, and perfectly complimented by the mustard sauce and the ample portion of light crispy fries. I ordered the truffle mashed potato side dish, mostly out of curiosity. At an extravagant $22, I assumed the flavor would be a singular experience. The family-style serving was plenty to share; however, I could only faintly distinguish a mushroom taste, not distinctive enough to justify the expense.

Choosing dessert proved to be difficult, as the options were all equally intriguing. We went for the Apple Tarte Tatin with Lemon Verbena Ice Cream and Vanilla Anglaise as well as the Jasmin Pannacotta with Sweet n Sour Berries and a balsamic reduction. The Jasmin Pannacotta was almost like experiencing two desserts in one. By itself, the pannacotta with the balsamic reduction was strangely strong and sour as well as slightly sweet. Combined with the berries, it had almost no flavor, but its creamy, custard-like consistency was a light contrast to the intensity of the fruit. The menu boasts of some delightful cheeses from Wisconsin, Spain and France and a selection of teas for lighter after-dinner fare as well as dessert wines and liquors.

I had a glimpse of the inside décor, which is simple yet elegant. I will look forward to enjoying a meal from that perspective on another occasion. My first visit to Café Pinot was impressive. This expensive dinner in a world-class city sets the standard.

$$$$

Café Pinot
700 West Fifth Street
Los Angeles, CA 90071
213.239.6500
www.patinagroup.com

Hours:
Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner: Monday and Tuesday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., Wednesday and Thursday, 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday, 4:30 to 9 p.m.

Fearing's at the Ritz-Carlton, Dallas, Texas

2008-10-26T16:08:00.012-05:00

SOUTHERN FARE WITH AN UPSCALE FLAIR

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Fearing's has a lot to live up to.

Just over a year old, this latest, greatest downtown Dallas restaurant is the baby of its namesake, Chef Dean Fearing, and already the critics rave. Esquire magazine named it "Restaurant of the Year" only two months after it opened. Texas Monthly's gave Fearing's its 2008 award for "The Best New Restaurant." Frank Bruni, a food critic for the New York Times, named Fearing's one of the top ten intriguing restaurants for 2008 and described it as "big fun and big flavors." And in one Newsweek review, Julia Reed linked Fearing's with fun three times.

Dean Fearing himself is big fun. Sporting Lucchese cowboy boots, jeans and a crisp white chef coat, Fearing works the room with celebrity style. Dubbed "The Father of Southwestern Cuisine", he puts it on at the Ritz—as in Dallas' Ritz-Carlton—having left his twenty-one year reign as chef at another Dallas uber-luxury hotel restaurant, The Mansion on Turtle Creek. Foodies have followed Fearing to his new digs, which get top marks for décor, near the downtown arts district.

Comfortable yet lavish, each room has its own distinctive ambiance. My companion and I were among the first to arrive on a Saturday night and had our pick of seating. The Gallery is reminiscent of the elegant Mansion, intimate for quiet conversation. Across the hall is The Sendero—Spanish for "the path"— decorated with rattan furniture with mossy green cushions and surrounded by glass windows. It is wedged in between the two outside patios: The Ocaso, an inviting outdoor dining experience, with simply lit rectangular pools and single arc fountains, that incorporates the urban setting into its backdrop, and The Live Oak bar, which features the stately trees for which it is named. But the action takes place in Dean's Kitchen, where guests are made to feel like they are behind the scenes, within range of the chefs, in the midst of the hustle and bustle of the expert wait staff.

The setting is a showcase for Fearing's "Elevated American Cuisine—Bold Flavors, No Borders." No doubt, Fearing is fearless. He starts out with familiar fare and transcends it, combining elements you won't expect. This is not food to be gobbled, mind you. Better to go slow and let each bite entertain you.

The bread basket arrived first with most notably the jalapeño bacon cornbread. Combined with a hearty pat of softened butter, we were off to a good start. Next our waiter surprised us with a roasted mushroom soup shot, topped with a dab of sour cream. This ounce of creamy gray puree stimulated our appetites, but didn't leave us wanting more.

The State Fair Apple Duo, a combination foie gras and single sea scallop starter, was almost dessert-like it was so sweet. The smoked duck liver was too rare for my taste (is blood really supposed to squirt across the plate when you cut into it?), but fortunately, the pecan/caramel/apple accompaniment was so tasty, I temporarily forgot my concern. The Corn Flake Fried Sea Scallop in Spiced Cider Broth and Crushed Peanut “Brittle” was savory with a crunchy, sweet tang, but my tastebuds couldn't distinguish the scallop from the other flavors—only its buttery texture gave it away.

This appetizer combo gave me pause for thought, however. Just as the smoked aspect of the duck liver was lost on me for the sweetness of its sides, I had to ponder why anyone would overwhelm a simple scallop by frying it. My companion commented that "sometimes a restaurant tries too hard." In this case, I had to agree.

My partner ordered a variation on the standard meat/veggie/potato entrée: Broken Arrow Ranch NilGai Antelope on Savoy Cabbage, Wild Boar Sausage and Toasted Sage Sauté with Chili Spiced Frites and Mustard Crème Fraiche. We were told by our front waiter (or was it our back waiter?) that this particular antelope is originally from India, but fortunately Fearing's doesn't have to go that far to get them; these are free-range raised in Ingram, Texas, near San Antonio. The antelope meat was lean and tender, mild and not gamy in the least. The cabbage and sage side dish surprisingly overwhelmed the Wild Boar sausage (which perhaps also came from Broken Arrow?), and the frites provided a light, sassy balance to the rest.

My choice was the Prime Cut Rib Eye mopped over live mesquite with Corn bread Pudding and Crispy Asparagus. (Mopping is a barbeque basting technique with an implement that literally looks like a miniature kitchen mop.) In this case, the result was a thin, sticky coating that clung to the steak and gave it a dark, woodsy flavor. The generous, de-boned and trimmed rib eye was divided into two: the loin and the filet; the latter was by far the better for flavor and texture. The dry asparagus begged for a dipping sauce to melt its light, tempura coating, but the corn bread pudding won me over completely. It had the texture of traditional stuffing, and my waiter explained that the recipe started out as just that. I could've forgone the rest of the meal and simply spooned this unforgettable comfort-food creation down my gullet.

My partner and I left the rest of the meal for after our evening concert at the Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Center a few blocks away. About half way through the performance, I found myself wishing I had an anti-acid to kill the burning sensation in my esophagus—could the foie gras or the barbeque be the cause? I wondered. This didn't stop us, however, from returning to Fearing's later with a friend for desserts and an entirely different experience.

Again, we were seated in Dean's kitchen, close to the kitchen with a slight view of the white jackets behind the stainless steel counters. The room was lively now, every table packed with diners. We skipped the berry sorbet trio and the American cheese plate assortment to indulge in the most decadent desserts. We opted for the chocolate trio, the definite choice for chocoholics, with small but rich portions that allowed us each a few bites. A pudding-like chocolate custard was presented in a shot glass topped with chocolate chip marshmallows that could've passed for squares of cookie dough. The warm chocolate cake was just that—warm and deliciously dark and gooey like a molten. The fresh "fraiche" vanilla ice cream was a cool, refreshing contrast to the intensity of the milk chocolate brownie. The not-too-sweet butterscotch custard was accompanied by sugar- and caramel-coated apple fritters and topped with pecan toffee ice cream sprinkled with walnuts. This was three desserts in one, each flavor better separate than combined. Our waiter offered a taste of Jill's cookies cut into crouton-sized squares, and somehow we found room for the warm caramel spice cake with butter pears and more fraiche ice cream—the oral equivalent to autumn.

We could barely make our way out the door for the chic, couture crowd packed in the Rattlesnake Bar at the restaurant's entrance. And we weren't the only ones waiting for the valet who enjoyed watching the ultra-nouveau-riche young man wipe off a smudge before opening the door for his female companion to his black Lamborghini. For now, Fearing's is the place to see and be seen. But will it withstand the many tests of taste? Only time will tell.

$$$$

Fearing's at the Ritz-Carlton
2121 McKinney Avenue
Dallas, Texas 75201
214.922.4848
www.fearingsrestaurant.com

Breakfast: 6:30 to 11 a.m.
Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Dinner: Monday through Thursday, 6 to 10:30 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 6 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 6 to 10 p.m.
Sunday Brunch: 11 to 3 p.m.

GTB GADGETS

2008-10-12T11:21:00.000-05:00

DO THE GARLIC TWIST!

Finding the perfect garlic press is nearly impossible. Sure, there's plenty to pick from, but they often make a sticky mess and take more to clean than hand-dicing the clove in the first place. NexTrend Products has come up with a clever, no muss, no fuss, cross-cutting solution—The Garlic Twist. Crack the clove and peel its skin, pop it into the see-through container, and twist. Tiny plastic teeth do the chore of chopping, and the end result is two neat triangles of minced garlic that can easily be tranferred to what's on the stove. Cleaning is easy—just rinse once or toss in the dishwasher, and it's good until the next time. Go to www.garlictwist.com for a demonstration and to find answers to your questions, including where to find retailers that carry this product.

Sweetwater Grill & Tavern, Denton, Texas

2008-10-10T12:29:00.009-05:00

MIND YOUR BELLY

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Sweetwater Grill & Tavern has that worn-out, but loved-long look about it. This corner pub, one block south of Denton's downtown square, is a haloed hangout. Founded in 1996 by Restauranteur Bob Harmon and Chef Jimmy Meredith, it's overdue for an overhaul but draws a steady following nonetheless. Regulars include the line-the-bar locals, the take-off-your-tie happy hour cronies, and the too-hip-to-be-cool college kids. And then there are those like me, who simply need a Sweetwater fix.

If it's a nice day (and it almost always is), expect the garage-door style windows to be open to the patio. The air is filled with a mix of conversations bursting with laughter, classic rock playing in the background, and the drone of overhead ceiling fans whose sole purpose is to stir up cigarette smoke.

At first you might notice the crumbling cement floor beneath you, the weathered wooden tables and chairs, the sticky laminated menus, and wonder how all of this got past the last health inspector. But before long you'll be absorbed in conversation with friends, enjoying a few hours of free time with no responsibility. Forget the dingy surroundings. Instead, look up at the cheery colored lights strung overhead. That's the Tao of Sweetwater.

It might take a while for your twenty-something server in tattered jeans and a T-shirt to notice you. In the meantime, you eyeball the menu, equally split between good and bad for you. You contemplate one of Sweetwater's kiss-a** hamburgers—blackened, perhaps? With blue cheese and bacon? Jalapenos or guacamole? But you go with the old standby—Chicken Enchiladas. Your spouse debates getting the Southwest Pasta with grilled shrimp in a rich creamy sauce or the Frito Pie with a bowl of gumbo soup, but he ultimately decides on the 12 ounce Rib Eye. You note one particular line on the menu: ...Fried Bologna Sandwich...$4.99..... W/bottle of DOM...$195.00. Does anybody actually order this, you laugh? Then you remember why you're here.

Dinner takes a while, but no worries. Look up at the colored lights. Breathe in some of that second-hand smoke. Catch your server as he flies by and order the fried pickles and a frozen margarita, which will come long before the food. Talk over the rev of a motorcycle engine about something innocuous, like the weather or the last movie you saw, or trade jokes with the customers at the next table. Hum along with The Eagles, and squint to see the football scores on the TV inside the next room.

At last, the meal arrives. As always, the food is pretty much the same. The chicken enchiladas come with black beans and rice on a plate that's way too hot to touch with way more cheese than your diet allows. The rib eye comes medium rather than medium rare, but it's a good enough cut to eat without having to send it back. The mashed potatoes are sufficiently comforting, although the side salad is ho-hum: mostly iceberg lettuce slathered with creamy ranch dressing. It's predictable and familiar. But isn't that the point?

Peach is the cobbler of the day, but instead you choose the Bread Pudding smothered with hot Whiskey Sauce--worth every lovin' spoonful. You feel grateful to be American just so you can eat decadent desserts in a place like this. After a few minutes, the bread starts to expand in your stomach and you wonder how you're going to make it to the car. Seriously.

You eyeball a skinny co-ed in short shorts at a neighboring table, spooning the Smoked Shrimp and Scallops marinated in Pico Salsa into her tiny little mouth, and swear you're going to order that or the Grilled Vegetable Plate next time. At least you promise to forgo the Bread Pudding.

Then you remember why you came.

$-$$

Sweetwater Grill and Tavern
115 S. Elm Street
Denton, Texas 76201
(940) 484-2888
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. - 2 a.m.
Sunday and Monday, 11 a.m. - midnight

GTB TIPS

2008-10-04T17:51:00.002-05:00

WATER WITH A TWIST!

Tired of drinking water with lemon? Try a slice of lime instead. The
zesty, refreshing addition of lime to your H-2-0 will give it zip
without adding a single calorie. Chugging down those requisite eight
glasses of water a day is a whole lot easier with a tangy twist
to your taste buds, and it still keeps you hydrated. Another hint: add a
wedge of lime to a glass of soda water over ice for a non-alcoholic
drink that sparkles.

The Stinking Rose: A Garlic Restaurant, San Francisco, CA

2008-10-03T18:56:00.008-05:00

WHAT'S IN A NAME?

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

A rose by any other name would smell as sweet…as garlic? That would be true if the name were The Stinking Rose, San Francisco's garlic restaurant, located near the landmark Coit Tower and the Embarcadero. Locals as well as visitors call this original restaurant a favorite, and this visitor in particular makes a point to go there whenever I visit the city-by-the-bay.

The menu says, "We season our garlic with food," and they mean it so much they even trademarked the saying. Everything they serve contains the odiferous herb. No exceptions-well, except for the desserts. But I go for the main attraction.

This Californian-Italian restaurant isn't a gimmick. Jerry Dal Bozzo came up with the concept and opened the restaurant with restauranteur Dante Serafini in 1991. In 1995, another Stinking Rose restaurant opened in Beverly Hills. In 1996, Executive Chef Andrea Foncillo joined the team and added his culinary expertise to the operation. This ain't no stinkin' slop joint. The Stinking Rose is dining at its finest.

Like any good Italian restaurant, the ambiance sets the tone. Curtains of strung corks and empty bottles of Chianti hang from the ceiling like grapevines. My companion and I were seated at a two top by the window in the back corner of a room, its walls covered with black-framed photographs of the famous and infamous. The music of Frank Sinatra, Ella Fitzgerald and Dean Martin crooned overhead. A waiter came over immediately, took our order, and returned promptly with our drinks and first appetizer.

Don't say you don't like garlic until you've tried the Bagna Calda, which means "garlic hot tub." Sensual, slippery, garlic cloves soaked in extra virgin olive oil, butter and anchovies are served with bread for dipping. This popular dish, kept warm at the table over a small votive, has only one drawback: it's entirely possible to gorge yourself on it, which could potentially spoil your ability to gorge on forthcoming courses.

Another "must do" appetizer is the Roasted Garlic Potato Onion Soup. The soup is hot when it arrives at the table, covered by a pastry cap over the bowl that creates a soft dough when mixed with the creamy potage. It's beyond good to the last drop. By the time I scrape the bottom of the soup bowl, I'm stuffed.

But wait, there's more. My husband and I choose the top two entries to split: bone-roasted Forty Clove Garlic Chicken or Garlic Braised Boneless Short Rib, served with yummy garlic Yukon Gold mashed potatoes. Priced under $20, these best sellers are worth every clove. If meat can melt in your mouth, these do.

Fish and seafood lovers will go for the sizzling iron skillets with any combination of peel and eat shrimp, crab or mussels or one of three tureens of either garlic steamed clams, seafood "zuppa," or Louisiana shrimp in a tomato broth. All of these menu items can be sized accordingly for small to extremely large appetites.

What would an Italian restaurant be without pasta? Again, fish aficionados have plenty of choices, which is always a safe bet so close to the sea. Whether you prefer pesto to tomato sauce, lasagna to linguini, or gnocchetti with gorgonzola, you can get it here. Ahem. With garlic, of course.

Meat lovers will not want for choices either. Try the Silence of the Lamb Shank with Chianti sauce and fava beans, or go for Roasted Rabbit with olives. The Porterhouse Pork Chop is another favorite, as is the Italian Garlic Meatloaf and the Baby Back Ribs. Those with expandable waistbands might consider a slab of the 100% USDA certified prime Midwestern beef Garlic Roasted Prime Rib, although the large cut is plenty. The Surf and Turf combines The Stinking Rose's Dungeness crab fresh from the Pacific Ocean with the Prime Rib that comes with the afore-mentioned potatoes and Swiss chard. You'll never have to eat again.

Did I mention desserts? There are the standards, all up to par: tiramisu, chocolate mousse, and vanilla ice cream. Oh yes. There's one more. Uh-huh. You guessed it. Leave enough space in your stomach for Gilroy's Famous Garlic Ice Cream-in case you didn't get enough of that which we call a stinking rose-by any other name would taste so sweet.

$$-$$$

The Stinking Rose
325 Columbus Avenue (between Vallejo and Broadway)
San Francisco, CA 94133
415-781-7673
Open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

GTB TIPS

2008-05-15T17:40:00.000-05:00

DRESS UP YOUR SALAD!

Are you sick of salads? Switch your dressing for a break from the same
old, same old. If you always reach for Ranch, go for Balsamic
Vinaigrette. If Blue Cheese is your favorite, try Honey Mustard or
Creamy Italian. Experiment with new flavor sensations by
taking a chance on one of many specialty dressings, such as Stonewall
Kitchen's Champagne Shallot Walnut Dressing or Annie's Naturals'
Organic Papaya Poppy Seed Dressing. Just remember to watch your fat
grams, as not all dressings are created equally. Some mayonnaise- and
oil-based salad dressings have as many as 30 grams of fat per
tablespoon, but don't automatically avoid those high-calorie options.
Instead, try the old dieter's trick of putting the dressing on the
side. Then slightly dip the prongs of your fork in it before you take
the next bite. You won't sacrifice the taste, and perhaps you'll
discover that eating your veggies isn't so bad after all.

Mama's Fish House, North Shore, Maui, Hawaii

2008-03-03T11:42:00.014-06:00

ALOHA MAMA'S!

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

"You've gotta go to Mama's," everyone told me before my first trip to Hawaii, referring to Mama's Fish House on Maui's North shore. To get there, my husband and I passed through the artsy community of Pa'ia, near the beginning of the long, twisty-windy road to Hana that most visitors will drive only once. But a trip to Mama's is one worth experiencing again and again.

Family-owned Mama's Fish House is not a cheap diner like the name implies. The island's first fresh fish restaurant, founded in 1973, is fine dining on one of the most picturesque white sand beaches you'll ever set foot. Every dish is exquisitely presented as individual works of edible art. But don't plan on dropping in and finding an available table. Mama's Fish House is legendary. Make a reservation for lunch or before sundown, and ask to be seated along the wall of open windows for that spectacular ocean view and the gentle sound of the surf.

The restaurant is casual yet elegant, reminiscent of the Polynesian culture before Maui became a trendy vacation destination. When guests enter through the bar, they first notice the stunning floral arrangements of birds of paradise, heliconias and bromeliads, the rich mango wood interior, blue Tahitian-style tablecloths and native artifacts placed throughout. Even the bathrooms are tastefully decorated with old Hawaiian photographs, historical accounts of the 1938 earthquake and newspaper clippings from WWII.

The menu changes regularly depending on the availability of fresh fish, and you won't find chicken or steak. Mainly caught from the deep waters nearby, the fishermen are listed alongside their catches. Most recently I had the ahi, spearfish and mahimahi sautéed in panang curry and coconut milk, with a tablespoon-size sides of mango chutney, tiny diced bananas, and chopped macadamia nuts, with jasmin rice and lomi lomi salmon. Mama's Macademia Nut Crab Cakes with a fire and ice relish is also an excellent choice made with real chunks of flaky crabmeat.

My husband had the "Pua Me Hua Hana" in the style of old Hawaii, which is a regular offering. This dish features monchong and mahimahi sautéed in coconut milk with shredded, slow-cooked Kalua pig wrapped in a palm husk, a half of a small grilled banana, a purple Molokai sweet potato, star fruit slices, a leche nut in its wirey shell and a half of a fresh coconut. You won't find this kind of cuisine just anywhere, so if you are curious about traditional Hawaiian food, this dish will introduce you to quite a variety.

The Asian-influenced appetizers are popular, including premium-quality sashimi served seared or as a salad, and Shrimp Won Tons. The specialty drinks are expensive, but go ahead—splurge, since the bill is going to be big anyway. I was a disappointed in the rum and fruit liqueur Mai Tai Roa Ae, which our waiter said was "why they (meaning the tourists) come." Next time I'll try the Scorpion, made with four rums and tropical juices. Non-alcoholic specialty drinks are available too, such as the Strawberry Guava fizz, which was refreshing and not too sweet.

If you like chocolate, try Mama's Chocolate Kuau Pie baked in a caramel cookie crust or better yet, go for the beautifully-presented Polynesian Black Pearl, rich chocolate mousse and passion fruit cream in a pastry shell made to look like an oyster shell. For coconut lovers, don't leave the island without a taste of Haukalima, made with coconut ice cream, Maui pineapple and papaya with tropical liqueurs. And don't forget to order a private estate coffee supplied by local growers to go with your dessert--a perfect end to the meal. And to think we had to travel across the ocean to enjoy it.

While I've never stayed at the Inn at Mama's, visitors can book a beachfront or garden cottage for a three-day minimum, complete with full kitchens and lana'i—what islanders call porches—and take advantage of those soft, salty breezes off the ocean. Check out the videos of the restaurant and the Inn at Mama's by going to www.mamasfishhouse.com.

$$$-$$$$

Mama's Fish House Restaurant, open daily
799 Poho Place, Paia, Hawaii 96779
info@mamasfishhouse.com (808) 579-8488
Hours:
Open Daily
Lunch: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. - Light Menu: 2:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. - Dinner: 4:30 to 9:30 p.m.

VIEW FROM MAMA'S FISH HOUSE

Hannah's Off-the-Square Restaurant, Denton, Texas

2008-02-06T21:52:00.004-06:00

GOING FOR THE GOLD

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

I feel like I am sitting in the lap of greatness. Chef de Cuisine Sheena Croft approaches cooking like an Olympic athlete competes: going for the gold, and then trying again. More often than not, she not only succeeds, but breaks her own record.

Case in point: I've been on a mission to find the best ever Caesar salad. Wherever I go, I make a point to order it. As it turns out, I don’t need to look beyond than my own backyard for it is to be found at upscale, unpretentious Hannah’s Off-the-Square.

Whenever I made comparisons between restaurants, Hannah’s Caesar came out on top. Then the chef, soon-to-be famous Sheena Croft, revamped the menu. I shared my disappointment with Jesse, our waiter, when I discovered that my beloved salad was gone. He expressed his sympathy.

“Why don’t you try our new-and-improved Caesar?” he asked.

How could he suggest it? I thought. It had taken forever to find “The One." I felt hurt and betrayed. It was too soon. I wasn’t ready.

“Well, o-kay.” I gave in. Jesse grinned as he took the menu from me. “You won’t be disappointed. I promise.”

I wasn’t. Instead, I was amazed. Chef Sheena Croft created a new Caesar with a twist on the old. She drizzled the same creamy, slightly tart, garlic dressing over a heart of Romaine rather than the usual torn lettuce, and added shaved parmesan instead of shredded. The hand-torn brown sugar croutons were a light, crunchy addition.
Hannah’s garners awards in other categories too. I'm partial to the cedar-planked salmon glazed with brown sugar, crushed red pepper and butter, which made the cut from the old menu to the new. The dark, earthy au poivre sauce that accompanies the beef tenderloin and the hamburger is rich and elegant. My choice for lunch, Hannah's veggie burger, on a whole grain bun with sun-dried tomato mayonnaise, avocado and a side of Waffle fries, might rank right up there with the Caesar salad.

A few items on the menu fall short. I’d pass on the roasted rosemary chicken that isn’t worth the twenty-plus minutes it takes to prepare. The pan-seared trout, a nice albeit uninspired piece of fish, is worth ordering for its sides; the thickly-cut fried green tomatoes paired with fresh Dallas mozzarella cheese and a tomato, red onion and basil salad make for a satisfying meld of flavors.

I don't have to look for the world’s most divine carrot cake. Hands down, Hannah’s has it. Call it a religious experience or call it a vegetable serving. The two pounds of freshly-grated carrots in each cake qualify it as a guilt-free dessert. The cake is layered with a sumptuous cream cheese frosting, topped with spaghetti-like curls of fresh carrots with an orange slice on the side. These decorations don't only make for a pretty presentation but enhance the taste. Trust me.

The restaurant offers one-time menus periodically for holidays and special occasions. Here Croft’s sail takes wind and her creativity takes hold. These are not simply meals, but often unforgettable events. The 100-mile meal last November was made from ingredients that she found locally. Croft spent months preparing. During the meal she and Wine Steward Ian Whitcomb shared their passion for the project. It was a singular experience.

I enjoy hanging out at Hannah’s bar, a comfortable place to meet friends for a specialty martini or a glass of wine, half-off by the glass on Tuesdays. For a quick bite, I order off of the Tapas and Mezze menu. The sweet chili calamari replaced the fried calamari that was once my favorite appetizer. Once again, Croft took her chances by taking the original off the menu. Did she get the gold? Who am I to decide? It's your turn to be the judge.

$$-$$$

Hannah's Off-the Square, 111 West Mulberry, Denton, Texas
(940) 566-1110 www.hannahsoffthesquare.com
Hours:
Lunch - Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Brunch - Saturday & Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Dinner - Sunday & Monday, 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Tues through Thurs 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Happy Hour - Monday through Friday, 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Originally published on Good Taste Buds Food and Travel Review Site, February 2, 2008
Modified on September 30, 2008

Yummy's Greek Restaurant, Denton, Texas

2008-02-03T10:21:00.001-06:00

LET’S GO FALAFELING!

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Can you Spanakopita? Dare to Dolma? Try Tahini or Baba Ghanouj? Yes, you too can go Greek when you dine at Yummy’s Restaurant in Denton, Texas.

Don’t judge Yummy’s by its postage-stamp size or its location in a tiny strip-mall off a main commercial drag. This hole-in-the-wall only seats thirty-six at one time, and has been a local favorite, serving up traditional Greek food to appreciative customers, since 1986.

It’s nearly two o’clock in the afternoon when I arrive. The only booth open is by the door—a little too chilly to be seated there—so I opt for a table near the cash register, where a kid wearing a ballcap is paying for his meal. I can hear the owner, busy in the kitchen, talking in Lebanese to the girl at the register. The place hasn’t changed much, if at all, since I first ate there twenty years ago--the same lime green booths, the mirrored wall that makes this cubby-hole seem bigger than it is, and the posters of Greece, Lebanon and Italy that make me hungry for travel in addition to the food.

I can safely say that I’ve ordered just about everything off the menu at one time or another, but certain favorites call to me every time I come. I wouldn’t dream of eating at Yummy’s without ordering one of the dips, either the hummus tahini, made of blended chickpeas, or the baba ghanouj, made of eggplant. Both are presented with olive oil and a black olive in the center and come served with a basket of plump pita bread slightly warm from the grill. I’m also fond of the lentil soup, a creamy, but not too thick version that’s perfect on a day like today.

Of the sandwiches, the Gyro (yeer-oh), a rotisseried combination of beef and lamb, is Yummy’s most popular seller, but I often order the grilled chicken souvlaki with a side of tzatziki—a light yogurt cucumber dip. Falafel, a fried ball of spiced chickpeas, is the vegetarian favorite, and all three can be made “supreme” by adding hummous and tabbouli, made with parsley.

Yummy’s serves several combination plates, which I highly recommend for an overall Greek food experience. The Yummy’s Feast or Mixed Grill for two are terrific for meat lovers, combining everything Greek on one plate with a side Greek salad with feta cheese. Vegetarians won’t go hungry either; there’s plenty for them on the menu as well, including a Veggie Combo plate and two appetizer platters. The moussaka can be ordered with or without meat, and practically everything on the menu can be ordered a la carte. A Greek meal isn't complete without baklava for dessert. Yummy's is a rich, but slighly dry version that combines walnuts with honey and thin layers of phyllo dough.

Souvlaki? Tabbouli? Moussaka? Baklava? Is this all Greek to you? No worries. Forget the names and explanations. The descriptions won’t mean anything to you until you taste them anyway. The best way to experience Greek food is to simply dig in.

$-$$

Yummy’s Greek Restaurant, 210 W. University Drive, Denton, TX (940) 383-2441
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday, 12 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Miguelito's Mexican Restaurant, Krum, TX

2008-01-30T13:58:00.002-06:00

MIGUELITO'S MAKES ITS MARK

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

What’s the mark of a successful restaurant? If it works once, do it again. If two is even better, then why not? Go for three! Three hits, and you've got a home run.

That’s what Miquelito’s Mexican Restaurant has done. Owners Vinny and Diana Cruz started with “good” in downtown Krum, Texas and is only getting better. After Krum proved successful, they built a restaurant and bar in Sanger, easily accessed from Interstate-35 going to or from Oklahoma from Texas. Now Denton, the apex of the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex, has a Miguelito’s too, with a full-service bar and a large outdoor patio.

Its customers tend to be partial to whichever location they frequent. My favorite is in Krum. The restaurant itself is nothing fancy, well-worn (well-loved?) and out of the way—that is, unless you’re passing through town. There’s no daily specials, no dress code, no placemats or table cloths on the plain wooden tables. Those who repeatedly come to Mig’s—as it’s affectionately called by those of us who can’t get enough of it—come to eat.

Mig’s customers tend to be partial to their favorite dishes too, often sticking with one and never venturing beyond. A friend who has been going to Mig’s for years always orders the Number 9 from the lunch menu, which translates as two beef enchiladas with rice and beans. My husband orders the succulent grilled shrimp fajitas or the grilled chicken fajita nachos with added onions. I tend to go for the chicken and spinach quesadillas and add verde (green) sauce. That, with a side of Mig’s guacamole or a bowl of warm chile con queso is, as my husband says, “just about right.”

Those who love Tex-Mex can always get all of the standard fare: fajitas, nachos, quesadillas, flautas, tacos, enchiladas, chimichangas and huevos rancheros. Those who want more authentic Mexican food should order off the dinner menu and try the Beef Steak a la Mexicana made with filet mignon, or the Shrimp a la Parilla, made with the same butterflied shrimp as the grilled fajitas, but with cheese, zucchini, corn and rice. Where else can you get Nopalitos con Puerco en Chili Rojo: braised port with cactus strips? But hey, if none of that grabs you, order the cheeseburger. Surprise! It’s good too.

It’s best to scrape off some of the Monterey Jack cheese off of many of their selections, and beware of snarfing too many chips that come with the salsa before the meal, addictive on most days, occasionally too hot on others. Skip the Cheesecake Chimi, but find room for a bite of traditional flan or a warm sopapilla. (That’s Spanish for Mmmm, mmmm, good!)

Our deepest condolences go to Vinny Cruz, his family, and the Serna family for the passing of our friend, Diana Cruz, on June 12, 2009. She was a wonderful woman and a pillar of the North Texas community. She is greatly missed by all who knew and loved her.

$-$$

Miguelito’s Restaurants:
241 W. McCart, Krum, TX (940) 482-7007
Hours: Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Closed Monday

1412 N. Stemmons Blvd., (I-35), Sanger, TX (940) 458-0073
Hours: Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Closed Monday

420 E. McKinney Ave., Denton, TX (940) 566-1671
Hours: Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Chestnut Tree Tea Room, Denton, TX

2008-01-29T19:14:00.002-06:00

CHESTNUT TREE AND TEA FOR ME

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

My blood pressure drops by degrees when I walk through the primrose and ivy-covered arbor into Chestnut Tree Garden Tea Room, on the south side of the square in historical downtown Denton, Texas. The soothing background music calms my soul, as does the soft lighting, the gentle clatter of silverware and dishes, and the murmur of light, friendly conversation.

I relax and soak up the warmth of the room. I am surrounded by faux greenery that creates the illusion of a garden courtyard. The sunny-yellow walls are the backdrop for a revolving display of paintings and photographs by area artists mixed among floral tapestries. An assortment of miniature chandeliers and standing lamps provide most of the light in the room, and the cheerful white tables are dressed with hunter green cloth napkins and fanciful salt-and-pepper shakers. Above me, grapevines intertwine with tiny white lights, a bouquet of baskets hangs from the ceiling, and birdhouses and butterflies abound.

I feel a bit like a little girl at a tea party except that I am surrounded by mostly middle-aged-and-older women as well as a few men. Charles, my waiter, brings a napkin-lined basket of mini-muffins to the table and takes my drink order. I choose the passion fruit-flavored tea and pop the irresistible muffins in my mouth, one after another, first smearing them with Chestnut Tree's extravagant honey and strawberry butters. I'm off to a good start.

It is late and the usual busy lunch crowd is thinning, so Charles has the leisure to spend some time with me. Based on his suggestions, I choose a variation on the tea plate sampler from the menu. We talk about the celebrities who have eaten at Chestnut Tree, including Kathy Bates and Renee Zellweger, as well as the Denton-based rock band, Midlake, that filmed part of their Hometown Texas town video for MTV in the restaurant. Noticing that I've downed another glass while we chatted, Charles brings me black current iced tea this time--his favorite--to sip on until my lunch arrives. I feel like I'm getting the royal treatment, even if I'm not Renee Zellweger or Kathy Bates.

Let's talk food. Any sandwich on Chestnut Tree's signature beer bread is a winner. While there are seven other bread choices, the beer bread makes an otherwise ordinary ham and swiss or turkey breast sandwich unforgettable. The egg and chicken salads, not too soggy nor dry, are cut above homemade. The chicken and basil quiche is a sure bet, but so are all five varieties of quiche that sell out every day. I could make a meal of the side broccoli salad it's so yummy, but if I wanted a just a salad for lunch, I'd go with the spinach or the Caesar. I suggest you save enough room for Chestnut Tree's most popular dessert—the Strawberry Pretzel, a typical southern dish made from Jell-O, whipped and cream cheese with a pretzel-butter crust.

Before I leave, Charles brings me a Peach iced tea to go (it is a tea room, after all), and I take a moment to check out the gift shop that I passed on the way in. I thumb through the restaurant's cookbook. If you can't make it to Denton to eat at Chestnut Tree, then order the book, which has many of this lunch spot's best recipes, for $12.95 plus tax and $5.95 shipping by e-mailing chestnuttree@verizon.net. In my opinion, it's worth double the price.

Try this popular soup recipe from the new Chestnut Tree Tea Room Cookbook, and let me know what you think:

Chestnut Tree Tea Room's Baked Potato Soup

4 large baking potatoes
2/3 C. butter or margarine
2/3 C. all-purpose flour
6 C. milk
3/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
4 green onions, chopped and divided
12 slices bacon, cooked, crumbled, divided
1-1/4 C. shredded Cheddar cheese, divided
1 (8-oz.) carton of sour cream

Wash potatoes and prick several times with fork; bake at 400 degrees for 1 hour or until done. Let cool. Cut potatoes in half lengthwise; then scoop out pulp. Melt butter in heavy saucepan over low heat; add all-purpose flour, stirring until smooth. Cook 1 minute, sitrring constantly. Gradually add 6 cups milk; cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens and bubbles. Add potato pulp, salt, pepper, 2 TBS. green onion, 1/2 C. bacon and 1 cup cheese. Cook until thoroughly heated; stir in sour cream. Add extra milk, if necessary, for desired thickness. Serve with remaining onion, bacon and cheese. Yield: 10 cups.

$-$$

Chestnut Tree Tea Room
107 W. Hickory Street, Denton, TX (940) 591-9475
Tea Room Hours: Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. 
Gift Shop Hours: Monday 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Finn and Porter, DoubleTree Hotel Missoula/Edgewater, Missoula, MT

2008-01-23T06:34:00.002-06:00

BEAM ME UP TO MONTANA, SCOTTY!

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

If I could snap my fingers and be anywhere, I'd choose Missoula, Montana. It's easy to get there. Just take a commuter plane out of Denver International and you'll land an hour and a half later. Make sure to nab a window seat so you can see the Rockies from the air and catch a glimpse of Missoula waiting in the valley for your arrival.

When (not if) you go, stay at the DoubleTree Hotel Missoula/Edgewater near downtown at the University of Montana. Not only is this Hilton-owned property conveniently located, but it has a first-class restaurant, the Finn & Porter. A close-to-perfect experience is sitting outside during the summer on the restaurant's deck, surrounded by potted purple pansies, overlooking the Clark Fork River. When it's cold, I sit by one of many tables next to the glass wall of windows. I can easily get lost in thought watching a fly-fisherman casting his line or a heron waiting patiently for his breakfast to swim by.

Speaking of breakfast, may I suggest the oatmeal with fresh mangos and fruit on the side? Or, for something a little more substantial, try the feta cheese omelet with asparagus. For lunch, I love to order the house-roasted ruby red beet salad or the grilled chicken cobb salad. It doesn't get much better—or healthier—than this. Blow the diet on the crispy calamari, which comes with carmelized lemons and peppers—rare fare that you won't find just anywhere.

You can't go wrong with a good steak at dinner, and my husband and I pair it with a bottle from the restaurant's full-page wine list. If we're in the mood to nibble, we sit at the large, circular bar in the center of "The Finn" and order a pick-and-choose anti pasta platter from the appetizer menu. I'm hungry just thinking about it.

Finn & Porter restaurants also exist in Austin, Texas, Alexandria, Virginia and Washington, D.C., but so far I've only eaten at the one in Missoula. Anyone have any info to share about the others?

BTW, when you call for reservations, book a room on the hotel's riverside. It's worth the price of the whole trip for the good night's sleep, snoozing to the soothing river rippling by, buried under the blankets while the chilly mountain air dances around you.

I could go on and on about Missoula and Western Montana, but if you start here, you'll discover your own version of this lil bit o' heaven on earth.

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Finn & Porter Missoula at the DoubleTree/Edgewater Hotel
100 Madison, Missoula, MT (406) 542-4660; www.finnandporter.com/missoula
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, including holidays.

I Love Sushi Restaurant, Denton, TX (near Dallas/Fort Worth)

2008-01-22T18:15:00.002-06:00

I love sushi at I LOVE SUSHI!

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Good sushi? In TEXAS? Check out I Love Sushi, the Japanese restaurant in Denton, north of Dallas and Fort Worth. The place could use a renovation, and the name and Korean owners have changed several times, but never fear: as of January 2008, I Love Sushi will make you love sushi too.

To be honest, I like their sushi rolls the best. I just can't get enough of 'em. I ought to know, since I eat here at least four times a week.

Let me explain: A sushi roll is made for Americans, who tend to like food on the sweet side--it's definitely not a Japanese creation. If you want to eat real Japanese sushi, stick to what's called Nigiri. That's a bite-sized piece of fish, often times raw, draped over a clump of compressed rice with a little wasabi dabbed in between. If you're not sure you like Japanese food, first try the ever-popular California roll, made from (sometimes artificial) crabmeat. It's good. Really!

My favorite is called the Alaska Roll. (The name changes, depending on the restaurant.) At I Love Sushi, the Alaska roll is a California roll topped with raw salmon and avocado. Delish! I also like the Denton Roll (again, named as such at I Love Sushi) made with raw tuna, avocado and cream cheese. But the best of all is the Spicy Tuna Roll, made with, yep, you guessed it! I like it better than it likes me, if you know what I mean, but doesn't stop me from ordering it every time I go to I Love Sushi.

If you aren't into raw fish, that's okay. Order the Chicken Teriyaki or the Chicken Yaki Udon for the best chicken noodle soup ever. The tempura is mighty fine too. Order a traditional Bento box for a variety and to save a few pennies. Otherwise, bring plenty of Yen.

Fortunately, Dallasites don't have to pedal to Denton because another, more upscale version of I Love Sushi is located in North Dallas on Preston Road at Frankford Road.

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I Love Sushi, 917 Sunset Street, Denton, TX (940) 891-6060
I Love Sushi, 18101 Preston Road, Dallas, TX (972) 248-2100

Wisteria Restaurant, Atlanta, GA

2008-01-22T17:32:00.002-06:00

WHAT'S NOT TO LIKE ABOUT WISTERIA?

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Wisteria Restaurant, located close to the Carter Center near downtown Atlanta, is the kind of trendy that never goes out of style. Dress up or don't bother, this affordable, understated restaurant has its priorities in the right place. The hardwood floors, brick walls, and simple but elegant lighting and décor are a mere backdrop for the main event—the meal. Owner and Chef Jason Hill chose his nouveau-southern-style menu and wine selections carefully for pleasing popularity. I had the to-die-for homemade Pumpkin Ravioli and a garlicky Caesar salad, and my husband chose the lightly-breaded fried calamari and the All Natural Iron Skillet Half Chicken, which he pronounced "the best chicken he'd ever had."

We left room for dessert, but only after we found out that they were small. Ah, but we could order three for only $10—how could we resist? We opted for the carrot cake with bourbon sauce (too sweet), the dark cherry and port wine tart (too tart) and the traditional vanilla crème brulee (just right!).

We went on a Sunday night, perfect for a romantic dinner out, but we hear this place is noisy on the weekends. Make a reservation if you want a guaranteed seat.

$$-$$$

Wisteria, 471 North Highland Avenue, Atlanta, GA (404) 525-3363
Sunday thru Thursday, 5:30 – 10 p.m., Friday & Saturday 5:30 – 11 p.m.
www.wisteria-atlanta.com

Okefenokee Restaurant, Folkston, GA

2008-01-22T16:37:00.001-06:00

LOOKIN' FOR HOME COOKIN'?

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

On the way to the Okefenokee Swamp in Georgia, my husband and I had a hankering for some southern cuisine. It was lunchtime on Saturday, and as we drove through Folkston, we spied a restaurant with a parking lot crammed full. "Either this restaurant is the best in town, or it's the only one in town!" I said. We took our chances and stopped at the aptly named Okefenokee Restaurant.

We weren't disappointed. Here we found plenty of friendly folks and good eats. We chose the buffet ($7.50) over the menu and chowed down on melt-in-your-mouth breaded porkchops, killer fried chicken, traditional biscuits and cornbread, savory stewed tomatoes, brown-sugar sweet potatoes and perhaps the best coleslaw I've ever had. That's not all the Okeenokee Restaurant offered up, just what I could fit inside my right leg. And I made sure to pick up the last two jars of pumpkin butter on the way out.

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Okefenokee Restaurant, 103 S. 2nd Street, Folkston, GA (912) 496-3263
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.