Hannah's Off-the-Square Restaurant, Denton, Texas

GOING FOR THE GOLD

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

I feel like I am sitting in the lap of greatness. Chef de Cuisine Sheena Croft approaches cooking like an Olympic athlete competes: going for the gold, and then trying again. More often than not, she not only succeeds, but breaks her own record.

Case in point: I've been on a mission to find the best ever Caesar salad. Wherever I go, I make a point to order it. As it turns out, I don’t need to look beyond than my own backyard for it is to be found at upscale, unpretentious Hannah’s Off-the-Square.

Whenever I made comparisons between restaurants, Hannah’s Caesar came out on top. Then the chef, soon-to-be famous Sheena Croft, revamped the menu. I shared my disappointment with Jesse, our waiter, when I discovered that my beloved salad was gone. He expressed his sympathy.

“Why don’t you try our new-and-improved Caesar?” he asked.

How could he suggest it? I thought. It had taken forever to find “The One." I felt hurt and betrayed. It was too soon. I wasn’t ready.

“Well, o-kay.” I gave in. Jesse grinned as he took the menu from me. “You won’t be disappointed. I promise.”

I wasn’t. Instead, I was amazed. Chef Sheena Croft created a new Caesar with a twist on the old. She drizzled the same creamy, slightly tart, garlic dressing over a heart of Romaine rather than the usual torn lettuce, and added shaved parmesan instead of shredded. The hand-torn brown sugar croutons were a light, crunchy addition.
Hannah’s garners awards in other categories too. I'm partial to the cedar-planked salmon glazed with brown sugar, crushed red pepper and butter, which made the cut from the old menu to the new. The dark, earthy au poivre sauce that accompanies the beef tenderloin and the hamburger is rich and elegant. My choice for lunch, Hannah's veggie burger, on a whole grain bun with sun-dried tomato mayonnaise, avocado and a side of Waffle fries, might rank right up there with the Caesar salad.

A few items on the menu fall short. I’d pass on the roasted rosemary chicken that isn’t worth the twenty-plus minutes it takes to prepare. The pan-seared trout, a nice albeit uninspired piece of fish, is worth ordering for its sides; the thickly-cut fried green tomatoes paired with fresh Dallas mozzarella cheese and a tomato, red onion and basil salad make for a satisfying meld of flavors.

I don't have to look for the world’s most divine carrot cake. Hands down, Hannah’s has it. Call it a religious experience or call it a vegetable serving. The two pounds of freshly-grated carrots in each cake qualify it as a guilt-free dessert. The cake is layered with a sumptuous cream cheese frosting, topped with spaghetti-like curls of fresh carrots with an orange slice on the side. These decorations don't only make for a pretty presentation but enhance the taste. Trust me.

The restaurant offers one-time menus periodically for holidays and special occasions. Here Croft’s sail takes wind and her creativity takes hold. These are not simply meals, but often unforgettable events. The 100-mile meal last November was made from ingredients that she found locally. Croft spent months preparing. During the meal she and Wine Steward Ian Whitcomb shared their passion for the project. It was a singular experience.

I enjoy hanging out at Hannah’s bar, a comfortable place to meet friends for a specialty martini or a glass of wine, half-off by the glass on Tuesdays. For a quick bite, I order off of the Tapas and Mezze menu. The sweet chili calamari replaced the fried calamari that was once my favorite appetizer. Once again, Croft took her chances by taking the original off the menu. Did she get the gold? Who am I to decide? It's your turn to be the judge.

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Hannah's Off-the Square, 111 West Mulberry, Denton, Texas
(940) 566-1110 www.hannahsoffthesquare.com
Hours:
Lunch - Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Brunch - Saturday & Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Dinner - Sunday & Monday, 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Tues through Thurs 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Happy Hour - Monday through Friday, 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Originally published on Good Taste Buds Food and Travel Review Site, February 2, 2008
Modified on September 30, 2008

Yummy's Greek Restaurant, Denton, Texas

LET’S GO FALAFELING!

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Can you Spanakopita? Dare to Dolma? Try Tahini or Baba Ghanouj? Yes, you too can go Greek when you dine at Yummy’s Restaurant in Denton, Texas.

Don’t judge Yummy’s by its postage-stamp size or its location in a tiny strip-mall off a main commercial drag. This hole-in-the-wall only seats thirty-six at one time, and has been a local favorite, serving up traditional Greek food to appreciative customers, since 1986.

It’s nearly two o’clock in the afternoon when I arrive. The only booth open is by the door—a little too chilly to be seated there—so I opt for a table near the cash register, where a kid wearing a ballcap is paying for his meal. I can hear the owner, busy in the kitchen, talking in Lebanese to the girl at the register. The place hasn’t changed much, if at all, since I first ate there twenty years ago--the same lime green booths, the mirrored wall that makes this cubby-hole seem bigger than it is, and the posters of Greece, Lebanon and Italy that make me hungry for travel in addition to the food.

I can safely say that I’ve ordered just about everything off the menu at one time or another, but certain favorites call to me every time I come. I wouldn’t dream of eating at Yummy’s without ordering one of the dips, either the hummus tahini, made of blended chickpeas, or the baba ghanouj, made of eggplant. Both are presented with olive oil and a black olive in the center and come served with a basket of plump pita bread slightly warm from the grill. I’m also fond of the lentil soup, a creamy, but not too thick version that’s perfect on a day like today.

Of the sandwiches, the Gyro (yeer-oh), a rotisseried combination of beef and lamb, is Yummy’s most popular seller, but I often order the grilled chicken souvlaki with a side of tzatziki—a light yogurt cucumber dip. Falafel, a fried ball of spiced chickpeas, is the vegetarian favorite, and all three can be made “supreme” by adding hummous and tabbouli, made with parsley.

Yummy’s serves several combination plates, which I highly recommend for an overall Greek food experience. The Yummy’s Feast or Mixed Grill for two are terrific for meat lovers, combining everything Greek on one plate with a side Greek salad with feta cheese. Vegetarians won’t go hungry either; there’s plenty for them on the menu as well, including a Veggie Combo plate and two appetizer platters. The moussaka can be ordered with or without meat, and practically everything on the menu can be ordered a la carte. A Greek meal isn't complete without baklava for dessert. Yummy's is a rich, but slighly dry version that combines walnuts with honey and thin layers of phyllo dough.

Souvlaki? Tabbouli? Moussaka? Baklava? Is this all Greek to you? No worries. Forget the names and explanations. The descriptions won’t mean anything to you until you taste them anyway. The best way to experience Greek food is to simply dig in.

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Yummy’s Greek Restaurant, 210 W. University Drive, Denton, TX (940) 383-2441
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday, 12 p.m. to 9 p.m.