CAFE PINOT: OUTDOOR ELEGANCE IN THE HEART OF L.A.
By Ellen "EJ" Sackett
An evening spent at Café Pinot is an evening well spent. In the heart of downtown Los Angeles, this Patina Group restaurant sits on some of the best real estate in the city near the Los Angeles Public Library, adjacent to Maguire Park at Flowers and Fifth Streets.
My party arrived for a light, late evening dinner and sat on the outdoor patio. Immediately we were transported from the high-energy urban setting to a serene garden atmosphere. Delicate white lights strung from the trees twinkled above us and candles flickered on the tables as we settled in for an easy, relaxing meal.
Our server expertly guided us through the wine and menu selections, which required some explanation, until we landed upon our choices. We began with a basic California red and two appetizers: the lightly-breaded Dungeness crab cake with Asian pear, lemongrass aioli and a small lettuce salad and the Seared Hudson Valley Valley fois gras complemented by a mountain huckleberry sauce with pistachio and frisée (curly endive). Both choices were exquisite and rich, although I favored the crab cake combination. My entrée selection was the rotisserie of free range chicken with three grain mustard and pinot fries, a safe bet compared to the more unusual fare, such as the farm-raised rabbit, lavendar [sic] poached loin, pot-roasted leg, autumn bean cassoulet, and braised Tuscan kale, or the Wagyu beef cap loin, porcini ravioli, roasted root vegetables with salsify mousseline. The chicken was tender, just as expected, and perfectly complimented by the mustard sauce and the ample portion of light crispy fries. I ordered the truffle mashed potato side dish, mostly out of curiosity. At an extravagant $22, I assumed the flavor would be a singular experience. The family-style serving was plenty to share; however, I could only faintly distinguish a mushroom taste, not distinctive enough to justify the expense.
Choosing dessert proved to be difficult, as the options were all equally intriguing. We went for the Apple Tarte Tatin with Lemon Verbena Ice Cream and Vanilla Anglaise as well as the Jasmin Pannacotta with Sweet n Sour Berries and a balsamic reduction. The Jasmin Pannacotta was almost like experiencing two desserts in one. By itself, the pannacotta with the balsamic reduction was strangely strong and sour as well as slightly sweet. Combined with the berries, it had almost no flavor, but its creamy, custard-like consistency was a light contrast to the intensity of the fruit. The menu boasts of some delightful cheeses from Wisconsin, Spain and France and a selection of teas for lighter after-dinner fare as well as dessert wines and liquors.
I had a glimpse of the inside décor, which is simple yet elegant. I will look forward to enjoying a meal from that perspective on another occasion. My first visit to Café Pinot was impressive. This expensive dinner in a world-class city sets the standard.
$$$$
Café Pinot
700 West Fifth Street
Los Angeles, CA 90071
213.239.6500
www.patinagroup.com
Hours:
Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner: Monday and Tuesday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., Wednesday and Thursday, 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday, 4:30 to 9 p.m.
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