GOING FOR THE GOLD
by Ellen "EJ" Sackett
I feel like I am sitting in the lap of greatness. Chef de Cuisine Sheena Croft approaches cooking like an Olympic athlete competes: going for the gold, and then trying again. More often than not, she not only succeeds, but breaks her own record.
Case in point: I've been on a mission to find the best ever Caesar salad. Wherever I go, I make a point to order it. As it turns out, I don’t need to look beyond than my own backyard for it is to be found at upscale, unpretentious Hannah’s Off-the-Square.
Whenever I made comparisons between restaurants, Hannah’s Caesar came out on top. Then the chef, soon-to-be famous Sheena Croft, revamped the menu. I shared my disappointment with Jesse, our waiter, when I discovered that my beloved salad was gone. He expressed his sympathy.
“Why don’t you try our new-and-improved Caesar?” he asked.
How could he suggest it? I thought. It had taken forever to find “The One." I felt hurt and betrayed. It was too soon. I wasn’t ready.
“Well, o-kay.” I gave in. Jesse grinned as he took the menu from me. “You won’t be disappointed. I promise.”
I wasn’t. Instead, I was amazed. Chef Sheena Croft created a new Caesar with a twist on the old. She drizzled the same creamy, slightly tart, garlic dressing over a heart of Romaine rather than the usual torn lettuce, and added shaved parmesan instead of shredded. The hand-torn brown sugar croutons were a light, crunchy addition.
Hannah’s garners awards in other categories too. I'm partial to the cedar-planked salmon glazed with brown sugar, crushed red pepper and butter, which made the cut from the old menu to the new. The dark, earthy au poivre sauce that accompanies the beef tenderloin and the hamburger is rich and elegant. My choice for lunch, Hannah's veggie burger, on a whole grain bun with sun-dried tomato mayonnaise, avocado and a side of Waffle fries, might rank right up there with the Caesar salad.
A few items on the menu fall short. I’d pass on the roasted rosemary chicken that isn’t worth the twenty-plus minutes it takes to prepare. The pan-seared trout, a nice albeit uninspired piece of fish, is worth ordering for its sides; the thickly-cut fried green tomatoes paired with fresh Dallas mozzarella cheese and a tomato, red onion and basil salad make for a satisfying meld of flavors.
I don't have to look for the world’s most divine carrot cake. Hands down, Hannah’s has it. Call it a religious experience or call it a vegetable serving. The two pounds of freshly-grated carrots in each cake qualify it as a guilt-free dessert. The cake is layered with a sumptuous cream cheese frosting, topped with spaghetti-like curls of fresh carrots with an orange slice on the side. These decorations don't only make for a pretty presentation but enhance the taste. Trust me.
The restaurant offers one-time menus periodically for holidays and special occasions. Here Croft’s sail takes wind and her creativity takes hold. These are not simply meals, but often unforgettable events. The 100-mile meal last November was made from ingredients that she found locally. Croft spent months preparing. During the meal she and Wine Steward Ian Whitcomb shared their passion for the project. It was a singular experience.
I enjoy hanging out at Hannah’s bar, a comfortable place to meet friends for a specialty martini or a glass of wine, half-off by the glass on Tuesdays. For a quick bite, I order off of the Tapas and Mezze menu. The sweet chili calamari replaced the fried calamari that was once my favorite appetizer. Once again, Croft took her chances by taking the original off the menu. Did she get the gold? Who am I to decide? It's your turn to be the judge.
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Hannah's Off-the Square, 111 West Mulberry, Denton, Texas
(940) 566-1110 www.hannahsoffthesquare.com
Hours:
Lunch - Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Brunch - Saturday & Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Dinner - Sunday & Monday, 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Tues through Thurs 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Happy Hour - Monday through Friday, 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Originally published on Good Taste Buds Food and Travel Review Site, February 2, 2008
Modified on September 30, 2008
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