Burgundy Restaurant, Denton, Texas

LOVE IS AT THE HEART OF BURGUNDY

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett


Now that New Years is out of the way, it's time to be thinking ahead to the next big holiday: Valentine's Day. With just over a month away, it's time to make those reservations now to take your sweetie out for an expensive romantic dinner.

In Denton, Texas, my choice for date night is Burgundy Restaurant, opulent without being pretentious, decorated in rich, warm golds and deep reds as the name suggests. It is located west of the Downtown Square, next to the Campus Theatre. (Unfortunately, the Campus is dark on Valentine's Day this year, but check its Web site at www.campustheatre.com for upcoming events to combine dinner at Burgundy with a live performance.)

At Burgundy, you'll be greeted by the door by Tony Huda or his wife, Melissa, whose heart and soul touches every aspect of the dining experience. Simply put, they love their restaurant and want you to love it too.

Before you are seated, cuddle up with a drink on the black leather couch by the entrance. If it's your first date, you may want to sit at the beautiful back-lit bar and chat with Tony or watch a bit of the ballgame on the big screen HDTV. Burgundy has a fine wine list and a full assortment of liquor. Take your time to decide. Dinner awaits, but there's no rush.

The dining room is cozy, but the tables are far enough apart that you won't be disturbed by neighboring guests. If you are fortunate, first-class jazz guitarist Joseph Gomez will be performing quietly in the corner, or you may hear Frank Sinatra piped in overhead. Kick off your heels under the table, ladies. What's a romantic dinner without a little footsie with your tootsie?

The servers are friendly, yet professional. They are informed about the menu, offered on a one-page board that isn't extensive, but selective. Burgundy mainly serves seafood and steak, although there is one lamb dish, a duck au poivre, and a chicken entreé as well. The Steak and Lobster Tail combo, rarely offered at Denton restaurants, is an occasional specialty of the house. The Shrimp Tower served over rice is excellent and reliable, and any of the steak cuts (Bone-in Rib-Eye with Peppercorn, New York Strip, and the Filet Mignon) are done to perfection as you like them. The Sea Scallop over spinach is another satisfying choice, and the Seabass In Orange Terragon Beure Blanc over Sauteed Zucchini and Squash never fails to please.

The portions are not large at Burgundy, so you may want to choose an appetizer or salad before the main course. A plain white bread basket comes with three choices of butter: sweet, fruit and jalapeño, and a sorbet sample comes between courses to cleanse the palette--other nice touches from the Hudas for their guests. Vegetarians may want to choose from the side dishes ala carte, but for $6 each, the amounts are small.

Follow dinner with dessert with coffee or a port wine, and then hold hands while you take a stroll around the historical Denton Square, lit year-round with twinkly white lights. This completes the perfect romantic evening--or who knows? Perhaps your night out at Burgundy will be the perfect prelude to a romantic evening in.

$$$

Burgundy Restaurant, 222 W Hickory Street, Denton, Texas
(940) 384-1800

PLEASE NOTE: We are sad to report as of December 2009, Burgundy is no longer in business.

Hours:
Open for dinner only, Mondays through Saturdays, 4:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.
Closed on Sundays

Jazz Café, Fort Worth, Texas

FLAVOR OF GREECE FOUND IN FORT WORTH

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Stumble upon Jazz Café in Fort Worth near the Arts District and step
into the Old World. This weathered Mediterranean-style escape offers a
flavor of Greece that extends beyond its gyros, tabouleh and falafel.
From the chipped Neptune sculpture, the faded plastic flamingos, and
retired pay phone to an antique scuba helmet, mounted marlin, and
family photos—everything has a story.

The most expensive menu item is among its best—the sliced Eggplant
Parmesan, lightly breaded, then grilled in olive oil, smothered with
melted mozzarella with fresh rosemary bread. Open wide for one of
several ample-sized sandwiches or go for a traditional Greek salad.
The Tex-Mex fare is surprisingly tasty, particularly the black bean
enchiladas in corn tortillas.

The restaurant is open for lunch seven days a week and adds breakfast
on weekends. Come for live jazz on Sundays, but don't be in a rush.
The service is as laid back as the music and the place itself.

$

Jazz Cafe
2504 Montgomery Street, Fort Worth, Texas
(817) 737-0043;'

Hours:
Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Saturday, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Sunday, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.

III Forks Restaurant, Dallas, Texas

III FORKS GETS FOUR STARS

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

At III Forks, you'll find the grandeur one comes to expect from a high-dollar Dallas steakhouse. It's a manly man's restaurant, classy and comfortable with an aura of elegance, decorated with brass and elk horn chandeliers, high ceilings and dark wood, leather-cushioned chairs, and tables covered in white tablecloths. I half expected to see J.R. Ewing show up with his entourage; rather, here's where real-life power negotiations and boardroom deals go down.

Through a twist of circumstances, my family and I ended up at III Forks for Thanksgiving dinner and enjoyed a near-perfect experience with a few surprises. The first was its price—$42.95 for adults and $14.95 for children under 12—meager compared to other fixed-price meals in town. This four-course meal included soup, salad, a choice of two entrées and one of four desserts. We were told there were reservations for 2,300 on the books for that day. Fortunately, III Fork's sixteen dining rooms, named after Texas war heroes, are spacious enough to handle big crowds without feeling crowded.

To put us in a festive mood, we started with a holiday twist on the Mimosa: a combination of champagne and cranberry instead of orange juice aptly named "Poinsettia." Soon after we placed our dinner order, the thin, broth- not cream-based tomato basil soup arrived, closely followed by a spring green mix topped with blue cheese crumbles, slices of green apple and III Forks' delectable maple walnut pecan vinaigrette. The slow-roasted turkey dribbled with Grandma's giblet gravy wasn't memorable, but the juicy Chateaubriand with Bordelaise Sauce was tender enough to cut with a fork. Both meals came with crunchy, lightly-coated snap peas and whipped potatoes with chives and scallions. The turkey dinner included orange-infused yams, a healthier substitute from the standard syrupy marshmallow-coated recipe, a hearty sausage cornbread dressing, and a tart cranberry puree dollop. The generous portion of steak came with off-the-cob creamed corn that was as much cream as corn. It was such a hit that our waiter brought an additional family-style portion of the for us to share.

Our waiters, Duane and Brandon, were on top of their game, rarely beyond calling distance for our every need. Duane's recommendation to go with the Pumpkin Pie Cake with homemade whipped cream was a good call, although I was tempted by the Chestnut Ice Cream with Chocolate Orange Sauce. A few bites of the Kentucky Bourbon Pecan Pie were enough to satisfy my sweet tooth, as dense as it was rich. The other choice was Cheesecake with Raspberry Sauce.

I checked out III Fork's pricey but choice evening menu, which features USDA Prime beef and fish, accompanied by the III Forks salad and the off-the cob creamed corn we had at Thanksgiving. I'll be going for the Bone-in Rib Eye or the Veal Chop, or maybe I'll give the Australian or Southern Fried Lobster Tail a go. Next time we'll make a point to order from III Fork's impressive wine selection that offers over 900 varieties. We don't need any excuse, like another holiday, to make another trek to III Forks. Any meal at III Forks would be a special occasion.

$$$-$$$$

III Forks Restaurant
17776 Dallas Parkway
Dallas, TX 75287
972-267-1776
www.iiiforks.com
(Additional locations in Austin, Texas and Palm Beach Gardens, Florida)

Hours:
Open 7 days a week, closed for lunch
Sunday, 5 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Monday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m

Rudy's Country Store and B-B-Q, Denton, Texas (near DFW)

RUDY'S B-B-Q SAVES THE DAY!

It was 10:30 a.m. I had an outdoor party to throw and only a few hours to prepare for it. The guest of honor was a friend visiting from Japan, and we wanted to show him a good ol' Texas time. At first, I planned on going to the supermarket and picking up hamburger fixin's and a few sides from the grocery deli. But then it dawned on me: What could be better than to offer our Japanese guest barbecue?

I remembered a barbecue joint along the highway I hadn't been to in a while. It was a friendly place, where customers stood in line to place their order, choose their beer from an ice-filled trough, then chose from one of many folding chairs along the rows of tables lined up like a church social. Taking a chance, I stopped in to see if Rudy's could help me at the last minute.

The young woman behind the counter at the front of Rudy's Country Store was an expert in handling to-go orders and catered events. She offered several recommendations and gave me samples to taste. After considering the options, I ended up with a combination of smoked brisket, turkey, sausage, St. Louis ribs and a couple of chickens with sides of creamed corn and coleslaw. The price, on par with what I expected to pay at the grocery store, included one regular and one "sissy" bottle of Rudy's B-B-Q sause [sic], pickles, onions, jalapeños, cutlery, napkins and even a plastic table cloth! I was set.

For more money, I could've added pork loin and chopped beef, or one of the other sides such as potato salad, pinto beans, green bean salad or corn-on-the-cob. Dessert is another add-on, which includes a choice of banana pudding or peach cobbler, and ice tea, both sweetened and unsweetened, are available.

I made arrangements to pick up my order at 1 p.m. and it was ready to go when I arrived. Several employees armed with foil tins lined up to carry the food to my car. Each tray was clearly labeled, so unpacking the steaming contents once I arrived at my destination was a cinch. I have never thrown a party with such ease.

The party was a hit. My guests raved about the tender meat, and one of them even said it was the best barbecue he'd ever had. I could've made a meal on the creamed corn alone. My Japanese friend enjoyed the Texas-style tradition too. The best part? I had time to enjoy myself and my friends. The next time I throw a party, I'll remember Rudy's.

$-$$

Rudy's Country Store and B-B-Q
520 South IH-35 E, Denton, Texas 76205
(940) 484-7839
(Additional locations in Carlisle and Coors, NM; Norman, OK, as well as Amarillo, Austin, Brownsville, College Station, Corpus Christi, Del Rio, El Paso, Frisco, Laredo, Leon Springs, Lubbock, New Braunfels, Pharr, Round Rock, Sea World, Selma, Spring, Tyler and Waco, TX.)
www.rudysbbq.com

Fearing's at the Ritz-Carlton, Dallas, Texas

SOUTHERN FARE WITH AN UPSCALE FLAIR

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Fearing's has a lot to live up to.

Just over a year old, this latest, greatest downtown Dallas restaurant is the baby of its namesake, Chef Dean Fearing, and already the critics rave. Esquire magazine named it "Restaurant of the Year" only two months after it opened. Texas Monthly's gave Fearing's its 2008 award for "The Best New Restaurant." Frank Bruni, a food critic for the New York Times, named Fearing's one of the top ten intriguing restaurants for 2008 and described it as "big fun and big flavors." And in one Newsweek review, Julia Reed linked Fearing's with fun three times.

Dean Fearing himself is big fun. Sporting Lucchese cowboy boots, jeans and a crisp white chef coat, Fearing works the room with celebrity style. Dubbed "The Father of Southwestern Cuisine", he puts it on at the Ritz—as in Dallas' Ritz-Carlton—having left his twenty-one year reign as chef at another Dallas uber-luxury hotel restaurant, The Mansion on Turtle Creek. Foodies have followed Fearing to his new digs, which get top marks for décor, near the downtown arts district.

Comfortable yet lavish, each room has its own distinctive ambiance. My companion and I were among the first to arrive on a Saturday night and had our pick of seating. The Gallery is reminiscent of the elegant Mansion, intimate for quiet conversation. Across the hall is The Sendero—Spanish for "the path"— decorated with rattan furniture with mossy green cushions and surrounded by glass windows. It is wedged in between the two outside patios: The Ocaso, an inviting outdoor dining experience, with simply lit rectangular pools and single arc fountains, that incorporates the urban setting into its backdrop, and The Live Oak bar, which features the stately trees for which it is named. But the action takes place in Dean's Kitchen, where guests are made to feel like they are behind the scenes, within range of the chefs, in the midst of the hustle and bustle of the expert wait staff.

The setting is a showcase for Fearing's "Elevated American Cuisine—Bold Flavors, No Borders." No doubt, Fearing is fearless. He starts out with familiar fare and transcends it, combining elements you won't expect. This is not food to be gobbled, mind you. Better to go slow and let each bite entertain you.

The bread basket arrived first with most notably the jalapeño bacon cornbread. Combined with a hearty pat of softened butter, we were off to a good start. Next our waiter surprised us with a roasted mushroom soup shot, topped with a dab of sour cream. This ounce of creamy gray puree stimulated our appetites, but didn't leave us wanting more.

The State Fair Apple Duo, a combination foie gras and single sea scallop starter, was almost dessert-like it was so sweet. The smoked duck liver was too rare for my taste (is blood really supposed to squirt across the plate when you cut into it?), but fortunately, the pecan/caramel/apple accompaniment was so tasty, I temporarily forgot my concern. The Corn Flake Fried Sea Scallop in Spiced Cider Broth and Crushed Peanut “Brittle” was savory with a crunchy, sweet tang, but my tastebuds couldn't distinguish the scallop from the other flavors—only its buttery texture gave it away.

This appetizer combo gave me pause for thought, however. Just as the smoked aspect of the duck liver was lost on me for the sweetness of its sides, I had to ponder why anyone would overwhelm a simple scallop by frying it. My companion commented that "sometimes a restaurant tries too hard." In this case, I had to agree.

My partner ordered a variation on the standard meat/veggie/potato entrée: Broken Arrow Ranch NilGai Antelope on Savoy Cabbage, Wild Boar Sausage and Toasted Sage Sauté with Chili Spiced Frites and Mustard Crème Fraiche. We were told by our front waiter (or was it our back waiter?) that this particular antelope is originally from India, but fortunately Fearing's doesn't have to go that far to get them; these are free-range raised in Ingram, Texas, near San Antonio. The antelope meat was lean and tender, mild and not gamy in the least. The cabbage and sage side dish surprisingly overwhelmed the Wild Boar sausage (which perhaps also came from Broken Arrow?), and the frites provided a light, sassy balance to the rest.

My choice was the Prime Cut Rib Eye mopped over live mesquite with Corn bread Pudding and Crispy Asparagus. (Mopping is a barbeque basting technique with an implement that literally looks like a miniature kitchen mop.) In this case, the result was a thin, sticky coating that clung to the steak and gave it a dark, woodsy flavor. The generous, de-boned and trimmed rib eye was divided into two: the loin and the filet; the latter was by far the better for flavor and texture. The dry asparagus begged for a dipping sauce to melt its light, tempura coating, but the corn bread pudding won me over completely. It had the texture of traditional stuffing, and my waiter explained that the recipe started out as just that. I could've forgone the rest of the meal and simply spooned this unforgettable comfort-food creation down my gullet.

My partner and I left the rest of the meal for after our evening concert at the Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Center a few blocks away. About half way through the performance, I found myself wishing I had an anti-acid to kill the burning sensation in my esophagus—could the foie gras or the barbeque be the cause? I wondered. This didn't stop us, however, from returning to Fearing's later with a friend for desserts and an entirely different experience.

Again, we were seated in Dean's kitchen, close to the kitchen with a slight view of the white jackets behind the stainless steel counters. The room was lively now, every table packed with diners. We skipped the berry sorbet trio and the American cheese plate assortment to indulge in the most decadent desserts. We opted for the chocolate trio, the definite choice for chocoholics, with small but rich portions that allowed us each a few bites. A pudding-like chocolate custard was presented in a shot glass topped with chocolate chip marshmallows that could've passed for squares of cookie dough. The warm chocolate cake was just that—warm and deliciously dark and gooey like a molten. The fresh "fraiche" vanilla ice cream was a cool, refreshing contrast to the intensity of the milk chocolate brownie. The not-too-sweet butterscotch custard was accompanied by sugar- and caramel-coated apple fritters and topped with pecan toffee ice cream sprinkled with walnuts. This was three desserts in one, each flavor better separate than combined. Our waiter offered a taste of Jill's cookies cut into crouton-sized squares, and somehow we found room for the warm caramel spice cake with butter pears and more fraiche ice cream—the oral equivalent to autumn.

We could barely make our way out the door for the chic, couture crowd packed in the Rattlesnake Bar at the restaurant's entrance. And we weren't the only ones waiting for the valet who enjoyed watching the ultra-nouveau-riche young man wipe off a smudge before opening the door for his female companion to his black Lamborghini. For now, Fearing's is the place to see and be seen. But will it withstand the many tests of taste? Only time will tell.

$$$$

Fearing's at the Ritz-Carlton
2121 McKinney Avenue
Dallas, Texas 75201
214.922.4848
www.fearingsrestaurant.com

Breakfast: 6:30 to 11 a.m.
Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Dinner: Monday through Thursday, 6 to 10:30 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 6 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 6 to 10 p.m.
Sunday Brunch: 11 to 3 p.m.

Sweetwater Grill & Tavern, Denton, Texas

MIND YOUR BELLY

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Sweetwater Grill & Tavern has that worn-out, but loved-long look about it. This corner pub, one block south of Denton's downtown square, is a haloed hangout. Founded in 1996 by Restauranteur Bob Harmon and Chef Jimmy Meredith, it's overdue for an overhaul but draws a steady following nonetheless. Regulars include the line-the-bar locals, the take-off-your-tie happy hour cronies, and the too-hip-to-be-cool college kids. And then there are those like me, who simply need a Sweetwater fix.

If it's a nice day (and it almost always is), expect the garage-door style windows to be open to the patio. The air is filled with a mix of conversations bursting with laughter, classic rock playing in the background, and the drone of overhead ceiling fans whose sole purpose is to stir up cigarette smoke.

At first you might notice the crumbling cement floor beneath you, the weathered wooden tables and chairs, the sticky laminated menus, and wonder how all of this got past the last health inspector. But before long you'll be absorbed in conversation with friends, enjoying a few hours of free time with no responsibility. Forget the dingy surroundings. Instead, look up at the cheery colored lights strung overhead. That's the Tao of Sweetwater.

It might take a while for your twenty-something server in tattered jeans and a T-shirt to notice you. In the meantime, you eyeball the menu, equally split between good and bad for you. You contemplate one of Sweetwater's kiss-a** hamburgers—blackened, perhaps? With blue cheese and bacon? Jalapenos or guacamole? But you go with the old standby—Chicken Enchiladas. Your spouse debates getting the Southwest Pasta with grilled shrimp in a rich creamy sauce or the Frito Pie with a bowl of gumbo soup, but he ultimately decides on the 12 ounce Rib Eye. You note one particular line on the menu: ...Fried Bologna Sandwich...$4.99..... W/bottle of DOM...$195.00. Does anybody actually order this, you laugh? Then you remember why you're here.

Dinner takes a while, but no worries. Look up at the colored lights. Breathe in some of that second-hand smoke. Catch your server as he flies by and order the fried pickles and a frozen margarita, which will come long before the food. Talk over the rev of a motorcycle engine about something innocuous, like the weather or the last movie you saw, or trade jokes with the customers at the next table. Hum along with The Eagles, and squint to see the football scores on the TV inside the next room.

At last, the meal arrives. As always, the food is pretty much the same. The chicken enchiladas come with black beans and rice on a plate that's way too hot to touch with way more cheese than your diet allows. The rib eye comes medium rather than medium rare, but it's a good enough cut to eat without having to send it back. The mashed potatoes are sufficiently comforting, although the side salad is ho-hum: mostly iceberg lettuce slathered with creamy ranch dressing. It's predictable and familiar. But isn't that the point?

Peach is the cobbler of the day, but instead you choose the Bread Pudding smothered with hot Whiskey Sauce--worth every lovin' spoonful. You feel grateful to be American just so you can eat decadent desserts in a place like this. After a few minutes, the bread starts to expand in your stomach and you wonder how you're going to make it to the car. Seriously.

You eyeball a skinny co-ed in short shorts at a neighboring table, spooning the Smoked Shrimp and Scallops marinated in Pico Salsa into her tiny little mouth, and swear you're going to order that or the Grilled Vegetable Plate next time. At least you promise to forgo the Bread Pudding.

Then you remember why you came.

$-$$

Sweetwater Grill and Tavern
115 S. Elm Street
Denton, Texas 76201
(940) 484-2888
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. - 2 a.m.
Sunday and Monday, 11 a.m. - midnight

I Love Sushi Restaurant, Denton, TX (near Dallas/Fort Worth)

I love sushi at I LOVE SUSHI!

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Good sushi? In TEXAS? Check out I Love Sushi, the Japanese restaurant in Denton, north of Dallas and Fort Worth. The place could use a renovation, and the name and Korean owners have changed several times, but never fear: as of January 2008, I Love Sushi will make you love sushi too.

To be honest, I like their sushi rolls the best. I just can't get enough of 'em. I ought to know, since I eat here at least four times a week.

Let me explain: A sushi roll is made for Americans, who tend to like food on the sweet side--it's definitely not a Japanese creation. If you want to eat real Japanese sushi, stick to what's called Nigiri. That's a bite-sized piece of fish, often times raw, draped over a clump of compressed rice with a little wasabi dabbed in between. If you're not sure you like Japanese food, first try the ever-popular California roll, made from (sometimes artificial) crabmeat. It's good. Really!

My favorite is called the Alaska Roll. (The name changes, depending on the restaurant.) At I Love Sushi, the Alaska roll is a California roll topped with raw salmon and avocado. Delish! I also like the Denton Roll (again, named as such at I Love Sushi) made with raw tuna, avocado and cream cheese. But the best of all is the Spicy Tuna Roll, made with, yep, you guessed it! I like it better than it likes me, if you know what I mean, but doesn't stop me from ordering it every time I go to I Love Sushi.

If you aren't into raw fish, that's okay. Order the Chicken Teriyaki or the Chicken Yaki Udon for the best chicken noodle soup ever. The tempura is mighty fine too. Order a traditional Bento box for a variety and to save a few pennies. Otherwise, bring plenty of Yen.

Fortunately, Dallasites don't have to pedal to Denton because another, more upscale version of I Love Sushi is located in North Dallas on Preston Road at Frankford Road.

$$-$$$

I Love Sushi, 917 Sunset Street, Denton, TX (940) 891-6060
I Love Sushi, 18101 Preston Road, Dallas, TX (972) 248-2100