GTB RECIPES

SECRET REVEALED: SAVORY SNACK FOR SURPRISE GUESTS

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Coming up with nibble food for drop-in guests isn't magic. It takes more than smoke and mirrors, although planning for the unexpected and knowing a few shortcuts helps. I've got a few tricks up my sleeve. This is one of them.

This hors d'oeuvre can be prepared in seconds—with no sleight of hands!—and makes even the most impromptu gathering special. Plus, the recipe is incredibly versatile. You can adapt it according to what's in your pantry. As long as you have cream cheese, some kind of fruit preserve and a mild cracker, you're good to go. Try Stonewall Kitchen's Roasted Garlic Onion Jam, which can be purchased online at www.stonewallkitchen.com and at specialty kitchen stores, or try one of many Polaner All Fruit products, made with 100% fruit and fruit juices, available at most local grocery stores. Red or Green Pepper Jelly makes for a particularly delicious and festive holiday appetizer. Experiment with various jams and jellies to find your favorite combination. Then make sure you have an extra jar on hand so the next time someone arrives at your door unannounced, you won't have to pull a rabbit out of the hat.

Cream Cheese Starter

1 8 oz. package of plain cream cheese

1 small jar of jam, jelly or marmalade

1 pkg. Wheat Thins (or mild cracker)

Unwrap cream cheese package and place in the center of a serving dish. Smother it with your choice of fruit jam, jelly or marmalade, allowing the preserve to dribble over the sides. Surround the cream cheese and fruit preserve with Wheat Thins. Voila! Now watch your guests make it vanish!

GTB RECIPES

PERK UP YOUR COFFEE

Adding a kick to your coffee is easy! Just add a few shakes of ground cinnamon on top of your coffee grounds before you brew. You don't have to invest in expensive beans, although the higher they are in quality, the better your coffee will taste. But even ordinary canned or freeze-dried coffee will benefit from a touch of spice.

Make Cinnamon Mocha by dissolving a teaspoon or two of instant Hot Chocolate to your cinnamon coffee, especially special on a blustery day. Mmmmmmmm……!

III Forks Restaurant, Dallas, Texas

III FORKS GETS FOUR STARS

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

At III Forks, you'll find the grandeur one comes to expect from a high-dollar Dallas steakhouse. It's a manly man's restaurant, classy and comfortable with an aura of elegance, decorated with brass and elk horn chandeliers, high ceilings and dark wood, leather-cushioned chairs, and tables covered in white tablecloths. I half expected to see J.R. Ewing show up with his entourage; rather, here's where real-life power negotiations and boardroom deals go down.

Through a twist of circumstances, my family and I ended up at III Forks for Thanksgiving dinner and enjoyed a near-perfect experience with a few surprises. The first was its price—$42.95 for adults and $14.95 for children under 12—meager compared to other fixed-price meals in town. This four-course meal included soup, salad, a choice of two entrées and one of four desserts. We were told there were reservations for 2,300 on the books for that day. Fortunately, III Fork's sixteen dining rooms, named after Texas war heroes, are spacious enough to handle big crowds without feeling crowded.

To put us in a festive mood, we started with a holiday twist on the Mimosa: a combination of champagne and cranberry instead of orange juice aptly named "Poinsettia." Soon after we placed our dinner order, the thin, broth- not cream-based tomato basil soup arrived, closely followed by a spring green mix topped with blue cheese crumbles, slices of green apple and III Forks' delectable maple walnut pecan vinaigrette. The slow-roasted turkey dribbled with Grandma's giblet gravy wasn't memorable, but the juicy Chateaubriand with Bordelaise Sauce was tender enough to cut with a fork. Both meals came with crunchy, lightly-coated snap peas and whipped potatoes with chives and scallions. The turkey dinner included orange-infused yams, a healthier substitute from the standard syrupy marshmallow-coated recipe, a hearty sausage cornbread dressing, and a tart cranberry puree dollop. The generous portion of steak came with off-the-cob creamed corn that was as much cream as corn. It was such a hit that our waiter brought an additional family-style portion of the for us to share.

Our waiters, Duane and Brandon, were on top of their game, rarely beyond calling distance for our every need. Duane's recommendation to go with the Pumpkin Pie Cake with homemade whipped cream was a good call, although I was tempted by the Chestnut Ice Cream with Chocolate Orange Sauce. A few bites of the Kentucky Bourbon Pecan Pie were enough to satisfy my sweet tooth, as dense as it was rich. The other choice was Cheesecake with Raspberry Sauce.

I checked out III Fork's pricey but choice evening menu, which features USDA Prime beef and fish, accompanied by the III Forks salad and the off-the cob creamed corn we had at Thanksgiving. I'll be going for the Bone-in Rib Eye or the Veal Chop, or maybe I'll give the Australian or Southern Fried Lobster Tail a go. Next time we'll make a point to order from III Fork's impressive wine selection that offers over 900 varieties. We don't need any excuse, like another holiday, to make another trek to III Forks. Any meal at III Forks would be a special occasion.

$$$-$$$$

III Forks Restaurant
17776 Dallas Parkway
Dallas, TX 75287
972-267-1776
www.iiiforks.com
(Additional locations in Austin, Texas and Palm Beach Gardens, Florida)

Hours:
Open 7 days a week, closed for lunch
Sunday, 5 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.
Monday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m

GTB RECIPES

TRIED AND TRUE PEANUT BUTTER COOKIES

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

I bought myself an early Christmas present last week—a retro-red electric mixer. It had been a while since I'd baked anything. To break in my new toy, I decided to make my mother's peanut butter cookies. The recipe makes a bunch, a great choice for cookie swap parties, and they freeze well so you can make them ahead of time to have on hand for starving children and unexpected guests.

Thank goodness for Mom. I don't know what I'd do without her on the other end of the phone, walking me through each step, from "Do you know if brown sugar has an expiration date?" to "It's me again. Do you know how many sticks of butter there are to a cup?" to "Which do you want to hear first: the good news or the bad news?" to "Mom, I've got to go—I smell smoke!"

This recipe is foolproof. I can vouch for this, since this batch survived ad-libbing the amounts of baking powder and baking soda (since the measuring spoons were MIA), accidently bumping the spatula into the spinning beaters and breaking off the tip (thankfully found intact in the dough), forgetting to add flour until the last minute (lordy, that dough is awfully sticky), and finally, almost burning the house down (I did put the oven on bake, not broil, didn't I?).

Okay, so I'm not a great cook, but I love to eat peanut butter cookies. You will too, after you try this recipe:

Mom's Peanut Butter Cookies
(from "Kiss the Cook", a family cookbook by Betty Ann and Dick Ritscher, 1997).

(Suggestions from Mom: "For extra crunch, make 'em with crunchy peanut butter. I sometimes add a cup of mini-chocolate chips to the batter.")

1 cup minus 2 tablespoons butter (or margarine)
1 cup peanut butter
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed
2 eggs
2-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp. baking powder
1-1/2 tsp. baking soda
2 or 3 tablespoons wheat germ (optional)

1. In a large bowl, with an electric mixer, thoroughly mix butter, peanut butter, granulated and brown sugars and eggs.

2. In a small bowl, fork-stir flour with baking powder, baking soda, and wheat germ.

3. Add the dry ingredients to the peanut butter mixture and beat until smooth. Cover bowl and refrigerate until the dough is well chilled.

4. Roll dough into balls the size of large walnuts. Place them 3 inches apart on a lightly greased baking sheet. Dip a fork in flour and flatten each ball in a criss-cross pattern.

5. Bake in an oven preheated to 375 degrees F until cookies are light brown, about 10 to 12 minutes. Watch them carefully; they should be set, but not hard. Cool on a wire rack Store in tin with a tight-fitting lid. These cookies freeze well.

Yield: About 5 dozen cookies.

Originally published in Keller Citizen 2008 Holiday Guide.

Rudy's Country Store and B-B-Q, Denton, Texas (near DFW)

RUDY'S B-B-Q SAVES THE DAY!

It was 10:30 a.m. I had an outdoor party to throw and only a few hours to prepare for it. The guest of honor was a friend visiting from Japan, and we wanted to show him a good ol' Texas time. At first, I planned on going to the supermarket and picking up hamburger fixin's and a few sides from the grocery deli. But then it dawned on me: What could be better than to offer our Japanese guest barbecue?

I remembered a barbecue joint along the highway I hadn't been to in a while. It was a friendly place, where customers stood in line to place their order, choose their beer from an ice-filled trough, then chose from one of many folding chairs along the rows of tables lined up like a church social. Taking a chance, I stopped in to see if Rudy's could help me at the last minute.

The young woman behind the counter at the front of Rudy's Country Store was an expert in handling to-go orders and catered events. She offered several recommendations and gave me samples to taste. After considering the options, I ended up with a combination of smoked brisket, turkey, sausage, St. Louis ribs and a couple of chickens with sides of creamed corn and coleslaw. The price, on par with what I expected to pay at the grocery store, included one regular and one "sissy" bottle of Rudy's B-B-Q sause [sic], pickles, onions, jalapeños, cutlery, napkins and even a plastic table cloth! I was set.

For more money, I could've added pork loin and chopped beef, or one of the other sides such as potato salad, pinto beans, green bean salad or corn-on-the-cob. Dessert is another add-on, which includes a choice of banana pudding or peach cobbler, and ice tea, both sweetened and unsweetened, are available.

I made arrangements to pick up my order at 1 p.m. and it was ready to go when I arrived. Several employees armed with foil tins lined up to carry the food to my car. Each tray was clearly labeled, so unpacking the steaming contents once I arrived at my destination was a cinch. I have never thrown a party with such ease.

The party was a hit. My guests raved about the tender meat, and one of them even said it was the best barbecue he'd ever had. I could've made a meal on the creamed corn alone. My Japanese friend enjoyed the Texas-style tradition too. The best part? I had time to enjoy myself and my friends. The next time I throw a party, I'll remember Rudy's.

$-$$

Rudy's Country Store and B-B-Q
520 South IH-35 E, Denton, Texas 76205
(940) 484-7839
(Additional locations in Carlisle and Coors, NM; Norman, OK, as well as Amarillo, Austin, Brownsville, College Station, Corpus Christi, Del Rio, El Paso, Frisco, Laredo, Leon Springs, Lubbock, New Braunfels, Pharr, Round Rock, Sea World, Selma, Spring, Tyler and Waco, TX.)
www.rudysbbq.com

GTB GADGETS

KUHN RIKON'S PARING KNIFE MAKES THE CUT

If I could have one kitchen utensil what would it be? I'd pick Kuhn Rikon's lightweight paring knife from Switzerland that's easy to grip and slices with perfect precision. It has a plastic handle and comes with a matching sheath to protect the sharp, non-stick 3-3/4 inch blade. This handy tool comes in a variety of cheery colors so it never gets lost in a crowded drawer and is priced right at around $10. The Kuhn Rikon paring knife makes an ideal present for any level chef and can be purchased online at Sur la Table (www.surlatable.com) or at specialty kitchen stores. ~ ej

GTB RECIPES

A THANKSGIVING DINNER FAVORITE: CRANBERRY ORANGE RELISH

by Ellen EJ Sackett

Thanksgiving is around the corner, and I'm already salivating. Who can resist turkey with cornbread dressing, baked sweet potato casserole with a gooey marshmallow topping, melt-in-your-mouth crescent rolls, and pumpkin pie topped with a dollop of fresh whipped cream? Can't you hear my tummy growling?

But my all-time favorite is homemade cranberry-orange relish, a perfect meld of sugary-sweet, tart and tangy that's so yum, it'll reform even the most adamant anti-cranberrians. This easy-to-make side dish tastes better if prepared ahead of time and keeps well in the fridge for days after—that is, if it isn't gobbled up first. If you do run out, Christmas will be here soon, and you can serve it then too. That's what I do.

Fresh Cranberry Orange Relish

1 (12-ounce) package fresh or frozen Cranberries, rinsed and drained
1 unpeeled orange, seeded, and cut into eighths
3/4 to 1 cup granulated sugar

Place half the cranberries and half the orange slices in food processor container. Process until mixture is evenly chopped. Transfer to a bowl. Repeat with remaining cranberries and orange slices. Stir in sugar. Store in refrigerator or freezer.
Makes about 3 cups.
Note: May also be prepared in a food grinder.
Basic recipe courtesy of Ocean Spray Cranberries, Inc.

Optional ingredients can be added to this basic recipe. Here are a few suggestions:
One tart green apple, cut into small pieces
One cup coarsely chopped pecans
1/4 cup dried currants
Here's another suggestion: Slather it on sourdough bread for extra special sandwiches made with leftover turkey.

Café Pinot, Los Angeles, California

CAFE PINOT: OUTDOOR ELEGANCE IN THE HEART OF L.A.

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

An evening spent at Café Pinot is an evening well spent. In the heart of downtown Los Angeles, this Patina Group restaurant sits on some of the best real estate in the city near the Los Angeles Public Library, adjacent to Maguire Park at Flowers and Fifth Streets.

My party arrived for a light, late evening dinner and sat on the outdoor patio. Immediately we were transported from the high-energy urban setting to a serene garden atmosphere. Delicate white lights strung from the trees twinkled above us and candles flickered on the tables as we settled in for an easy, relaxing meal.

Our server expertly guided us through the wine and menu selections, which required some explanation, until we landed upon our choices. We began with a basic California red and two appetizers: the lightly-breaded Dungeness crab cake with Asian pear, lemongrass aioli and a small lettuce salad and the Seared Hudson Valley Valley fois gras complemented by a mountain huckleberry sauce with pistachio and frisée (curly endive). Both choices were exquisite and rich, although I favored the crab cake combination. My entrée selection was the rotisserie of free range chicken with three grain mustard and pinot fries, a safe bet compared to the more unusual fare, such as the farm-raised rabbit, lavendar [sic] poached loin, pot-roasted leg, autumn bean cassoulet, and braised Tuscan kale, or the Wagyu beef cap loin, porcini ravioli, roasted root vegetables with salsify mousseline. The chicken was tender, just as expected, and perfectly complimented by the mustard sauce and the ample portion of light crispy fries. I ordered the truffle mashed potato side dish, mostly out of curiosity. At an extravagant $22, I assumed the flavor would be a singular experience. The family-style serving was plenty to share; however, I could only faintly distinguish a mushroom taste, not distinctive enough to justify the expense.

Choosing dessert proved to be difficult, as the options were all equally intriguing. We went for the Apple Tarte Tatin with Lemon Verbena Ice Cream and Vanilla Anglaise as well as the Jasmin Pannacotta with Sweet n Sour Berries and a balsamic reduction. The Jasmin Pannacotta was almost like experiencing two desserts in one. By itself, the pannacotta with the balsamic reduction was strangely strong and sour as well as slightly sweet. Combined with the berries, it had almost no flavor, but its creamy, custard-like consistency was a light contrast to the intensity of the fruit. The menu boasts of some delightful cheeses from Wisconsin, Spain and France and a selection of teas for lighter after-dinner fare as well as dessert wines and liquors.

I had a glimpse of the inside décor, which is simple yet elegant. I will look forward to enjoying a meal from that perspective on another occasion. My first visit to Café Pinot was impressive. This expensive dinner in a world-class city sets the standard.

$$$$

Café Pinot
700 West Fifth Street
Los Angeles, CA 90071
213.239.6500
www.patinagroup.com

Hours:
Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
Dinner: Monday and Tuesday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., Wednesday and Thursday, 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., Sunday, 4:30 to 9 p.m.

Fearing's at the Ritz-Carlton, Dallas, Texas

SOUTHERN FARE WITH AN UPSCALE FLAIR

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Fearing's has a lot to live up to.

Just over a year old, this latest, greatest downtown Dallas restaurant is the baby of its namesake, Chef Dean Fearing, and already the critics rave. Esquire magazine named it "Restaurant of the Year" only two months after it opened. Texas Monthly's gave Fearing's its 2008 award for "The Best New Restaurant." Frank Bruni, a food critic for the New York Times, named Fearing's one of the top ten intriguing restaurants for 2008 and described it as "big fun and big flavors." And in one Newsweek review, Julia Reed linked Fearing's with fun three times.

Dean Fearing himself is big fun. Sporting Lucchese cowboy boots, jeans and a crisp white chef coat, Fearing works the room with celebrity style. Dubbed "The Father of Southwestern Cuisine", he puts it on at the Ritz—as in Dallas' Ritz-Carlton—having left his twenty-one year reign as chef at another Dallas uber-luxury hotel restaurant, The Mansion on Turtle Creek. Foodies have followed Fearing to his new digs, which get top marks for décor, near the downtown arts district.

Comfortable yet lavish, each room has its own distinctive ambiance. My companion and I were among the first to arrive on a Saturday night and had our pick of seating. The Gallery is reminiscent of the elegant Mansion, intimate for quiet conversation. Across the hall is The Sendero—Spanish for "the path"— decorated with rattan furniture with mossy green cushions and surrounded by glass windows. It is wedged in between the two outside patios: The Ocaso, an inviting outdoor dining experience, with simply lit rectangular pools and single arc fountains, that incorporates the urban setting into its backdrop, and The Live Oak bar, which features the stately trees for which it is named. But the action takes place in Dean's Kitchen, where guests are made to feel like they are behind the scenes, within range of the chefs, in the midst of the hustle and bustle of the expert wait staff.

The setting is a showcase for Fearing's "Elevated American Cuisine—Bold Flavors, No Borders." No doubt, Fearing is fearless. He starts out with familiar fare and transcends it, combining elements you won't expect. This is not food to be gobbled, mind you. Better to go slow and let each bite entertain you.

The bread basket arrived first with most notably the jalapeño bacon cornbread. Combined with a hearty pat of softened butter, we were off to a good start. Next our waiter surprised us with a roasted mushroom soup shot, topped with a dab of sour cream. This ounce of creamy gray puree stimulated our appetites, but didn't leave us wanting more.

The State Fair Apple Duo, a combination foie gras and single sea scallop starter, was almost dessert-like it was so sweet. The smoked duck liver was too rare for my taste (is blood really supposed to squirt across the plate when you cut into it?), but fortunately, the pecan/caramel/apple accompaniment was so tasty, I temporarily forgot my concern. The Corn Flake Fried Sea Scallop in Spiced Cider Broth and Crushed Peanut “Brittle” was savory with a crunchy, sweet tang, but my tastebuds couldn't distinguish the scallop from the other flavors—only its buttery texture gave it away.

This appetizer combo gave me pause for thought, however. Just as the smoked aspect of the duck liver was lost on me for the sweetness of its sides, I had to ponder why anyone would overwhelm a simple scallop by frying it. My companion commented that "sometimes a restaurant tries too hard." In this case, I had to agree.

My partner ordered a variation on the standard meat/veggie/potato entrée: Broken Arrow Ranch NilGai Antelope on Savoy Cabbage, Wild Boar Sausage and Toasted Sage Sauté with Chili Spiced Frites and Mustard Crème Fraiche. We were told by our front waiter (or was it our back waiter?) that this particular antelope is originally from India, but fortunately Fearing's doesn't have to go that far to get them; these are free-range raised in Ingram, Texas, near San Antonio. The antelope meat was lean and tender, mild and not gamy in the least. The cabbage and sage side dish surprisingly overwhelmed the Wild Boar sausage (which perhaps also came from Broken Arrow?), and the frites provided a light, sassy balance to the rest.

My choice was the Prime Cut Rib Eye mopped over live mesquite with Corn bread Pudding and Crispy Asparagus. (Mopping is a barbeque basting technique with an implement that literally looks like a miniature kitchen mop.) In this case, the result was a thin, sticky coating that clung to the steak and gave it a dark, woodsy flavor. The generous, de-boned and trimmed rib eye was divided into two: the loin and the filet; the latter was by far the better for flavor and texture. The dry asparagus begged for a dipping sauce to melt its light, tempura coating, but the corn bread pudding won me over completely. It had the texture of traditional stuffing, and my waiter explained that the recipe started out as just that. I could've forgone the rest of the meal and simply spooned this unforgettable comfort-food creation down my gullet.

My partner and I left the rest of the meal for after our evening concert at the Morton H. Meyerson Symphony Center a few blocks away. About half way through the performance, I found myself wishing I had an anti-acid to kill the burning sensation in my esophagus—could the foie gras or the barbeque be the cause? I wondered. This didn't stop us, however, from returning to Fearing's later with a friend for desserts and an entirely different experience.

Again, we were seated in Dean's kitchen, close to the kitchen with a slight view of the white jackets behind the stainless steel counters. The room was lively now, every table packed with diners. We skipped the berry sorbet trio and the American cheese plate assortment to indulge in the most decadent desserts. We opted for the chocolate trio, the definite choice for chocoholics, with small but rich portions that allowed us each a few bites. A pudding-like chocolate custard was presented in a shot glass topped with chocolate chip marshmallows that could've passed for squares of cookie dough. The warm chocolate cake was just that—warm and deliciously dark and gooey like a molten. The fresh "fraiche" vanilla ice cream was a cool, refreshing contrast to the intensity of the milk chocolate brownie. The not-too-sweet butterscotch custard was accompanied by sugar- and caramel-coated apple fritters and topped with pecan toffee ice cream sprinkled with walnuts. This was three desserts in one, each flavor better separate than combined. Our waiter offered a taste of Jill's cookies cut into crouton-sized squares, and somehow we found room for the warm caramel spice cake with butter pears and more fraiche ice cream—the oral equivalent to autumn.

We could barely make our way out the door for the chic, couture crowd packed in the Rattlesnake Bar at the restaurant's entrance. And we weren't the only ones waiting for the valet who enjoyed watching the ultra-nouveau-riche young man wipe off a smudge before opening the door for his female companion to his black Lamborghini. For now, Fearing's is the place to see and be seen. But will it withstand the many tests of taste? Only time will tell.

$$$$

Fearing's at the Ritz-Carlton
2121 McKinney Avenue
Dallas, Texas 75201
214.922.4848
www.fearingsrestaurant.com

Breakfast: 6:30 to 11 a.m.
Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Saturday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Dinner: Monday through Thursday, 6 to 10:30 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 6 to 11 p.m.; Sunday, 6 to 10 p.m.
Sunday Brunch: 11 to 3 p.m.

GTB GADGETS

DO THE GARLIC TWIST!

Finding the perfect garlic press is nearly impossible. Sure, there's plenty to pick from, but they often make a sticky mess and take more to clean than hand-dicing the clove in the first place. NexTrend Products has come up with a clever, no muss, no fuss, cross-cutting solution—The Garlic Twist. Crack the clove and peel its skin, pop it into the see-through container, and twist. Tiny plastic teeth do the chore of chopping, and the end result is two neat triangles of minced garlic that can easily be tranferred to what's on the stove. Cleaning is easy—just rinse once or toss in the dishwasher, and it's good until the next time. Go to www.garlictwist.com for a demonstration and to find answers to your questions, including where to find retailers that carry this product.

Sweetwater Grill & Tavern, Denton, Texas

MIND YOUR BELLY

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Sweetwater Grill & Tavern has that worn-out, but loved-long look about it. This corner pub, one block south of Denton's downtown square, is a haloed hangout. Founded in 1996 by Restauranteur Bob Harmon and Chef Jimmy Meredith, it's overdue for an overhaul but draws a steady following nonetheless. Regulars include the line-the-bar locals, the take-off-your-tie happy hour cronies, and the too-hip-to-be-cool college kids. And then there are those like me, who simply need a Sweetwater fix.

If it's a nice day (and it almost always is), expect the garage-door style windows to be open to the patio. The air is filled with a mix of conversations bursting with laughter, classic rock playing in the background, and the drone of overhead ceiling fans whose sole purpose is to stir up cigarette smoke.

At first you might notice the crumbling cement floor beneath you, the weathered wooden tables and chairs, the sticky laminated menus, and wonder how all of this got past the last health inspector. But before long you'll be absorbed in conversation with friends, enjoying a few hours of free time with no responsibility. Forget the dingy surroundings. Instead, look up at the cheery colored lights strung overhead. That's the Tao of Sweetwater.

It might take a while for your twenty-something server in tattered jeans and a T-shirt to notice you. In the meantime, you eyeball the menu, equally split between good and bad for you. You contemplate one of Sweetwater's kiss-a** hamburgers—blackened, perhaps? With blue cheese and bacon? Jalapenos or guacamole? But you go with the old standby—Chicken Enchiladas. Your spouse debates getting the Southwest Pasta with grilled shrimp in a rich creamy sauce or the Frito Pie with a bowl of gumbo soup, but he ultimately decides on the 12 ounce Rib Eye. You note one particular line on the menu: ...Fried Bologna Sandwich...$4.99..... W/bottle of DOM...$195.00. Does anybody actually order this, you laugh? Then you remember why you're here.

Dinner takes a while, but no worries. Look up at the colored lights. Breathe in some of that second-hand smoke. Catch your server as he flies by and order the fried pickles and a frozen margarita, which will come long before the food. Talk over the rev of a motorcycle engine about something innocuous, like the weather or the last movie you saw, or trade jokes with the customers at the next table. Hum along with The Eagles, and squint to see the football scores on the TV inside the next room.

At last, the meal arrives. As always, the food is pretty much the same. The chicken enchiladas come with black beans and rice on a plate that's way too hot to touch with way more cheese than your diet allows. The rib eye comes medium rather than medium rare, but it's a good enough cut to eat without having to send it back. The mashed potatoes are sufficiently comforting, although the side salad is ho-hum: mostly iceberg lettuce slathered with creamy ranch dressing. It's predictable and familiar. But isn't that the point?

Peach is the cobbler of the day, but instead you choose the Bread Pudding smothered with hot Whiskey Sauce--worth every lovin' spoonful. You feel grateful to be American just so you can eat decadent desserts in a place like this. After a few minutes, the bread starts to expand in your stomach and you wonder how you're going to make it to the car. Seriously.

You eyeball a skinny co-ed in short shorts at a neighboring table, spooning the Smoked Shrimp and Scallops marinated in Pico Salsa into her tiny little mouth, and swear you're going to order that or the Grilled Vegetable Plate next time. At least you promise to forgo the Bread Pudding.

Then you remember why you came.

$-$$

Sweetwater Grill and Tavern
115 S. Elm Street
Denton, Texas 76201
(940) 484-2888
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. - 2 a.m.
Sunday and Monday, 11 a.m. - midnight

GTB TIPS

WATER WITH A TWIST!

Tired of drinking water with lemon? Try a slice of lime instead. The
zesty, refreshing addition of lime to your H-2-0 will give it zip
without adding a single calorie. Chugging down those requisite eight
glasses of water a day is a whole lot easier with a tangy twist
to your taste buds, and it still keeps you hydrated. Another hint: add a
wedge of lime to a glass of soda water over ice for a non-alcoholic
drink that sparkles.

The Stinking Rose: A Garlic Restaurant, San Francisco, CA

WHAT'S IN A NAME?

By Ellen "EJ" Sackett

A rose by any other name would smell as sweet…as garlic? That would be true if the name were The Stinking Rose, San Francisco's garlic restaurant, located near the landmark Coit Tower and the Embarcadero. Locals as well as visitors call this original restaurant a favorite, and this visitor in particular makes a point to go there whenever I visit the city-by-the-bay.

The menu says, "We season our garlic with food," and they mean it so much they even trademarked the saying. Everything they serve contains the odiferous herb. No exceptions-well, except for the desserts. But I go for the main attraction.

This Californian-Italian restaurant isn't a gimmick. Jerry Dal Bozzo came up with the concept and opened the restaurant with restauranteur Dante Serafini in 1991. In 1995, another Stinking Rose restaurant opened in Beverly Hills. In 1996, Executive Chef Andrea Foncillo joined the team and added his culinary expertise to the operation. This ain't no stinkin' slop joint. The Stinking Rose is dining at its finest.

Like any good Italian restaurant, the ambiance sets the tone. Curtains of strung corks and empty bottles of Chianti hang from the ceiling like grapevines. My companion and I were seated at a two top by the window in the back corner of a room, its walls covered with black-framed photographs of the famous and infamous. The music of Frank Sinatra, Ella Fitzgerald and Dean Martin crooned overhead. A waiter came over immediately, took our order, and returned promptly with our drinks and first appetizer.

Don't say you don't like garlic until you've tried the Bagna Calda, which means "garlic hot tub." Sensual, slippery, garlic cloves soaked in extra virgin olive oil, butter and anchovies are served with bread for dipping. This popular dish, kept warm at the table over a small votive, has only one drawback: it's entirely possible to gorge yourself on it, which could potentially spoil your ability to gorge on forthcoming courses.

Another "must do" appetizer is the Roasted Garlic Potato Onion Soup. The soup is hot when it arrives at the table, covered by a pastry cap over the bowl that creates a soft dough when mixed with the creamy potage. It's beyond good to the last drop. By the time I scrape the bottom of the soup bowl, I'm stuffed.

But wait, there's more. My husband and I choose the top two entries to split: bone-roasted Forty Clove Garlic Chicken or Garlic Braised Boneless Short Rib, served with yummy garlic Yukon Gold mashed potatoes. Priced under $20, these best sellers are worth every clove. If meat can melt in your mouth, these do.

Fish and seafood lovers will go for the sizzling iron skillets with any combination of peel and eat shrimp, crab or mussels or one of three tureens of either garlic steamed clams, seafood "zuppa," or Louisiana shrimp in a tomato broth. All of these menu items can be sized accordingly for small to extremely large appetites.

What would an Italian restaurant be without pasta? Again, fish aficionados have plenty of choices, which is always a safe bet so close to the sea. Whether you prefer pesto to tomato sauce, lasagna to linguini, or gnocchetti with gorgonzola, you can get it here. Ahem. With garlic, of course.

Meat lovers will not want for choices either. Try the Silence of the Lamb Shank with Chianti sauce and fava beans, or go for Roasted Rabbit with olives. The Porterhouse Pork Chop is another favorite, as is the Italian Garlic Meatloaf and the Baby Back Ribs. Those with expandable waistbands might consider a slab of the 100% USDA certified prime Midwestern beef Garlic Roasted Prime Rib, although the large cut is plenty. The Surf and Turf combines The Stinking Rose's Dungeness crab fresh from the Pacific Ocean with the Prime Rib that comes with the afore-mentioned potatoes and Swiss chard. You'll never have to eat again.

Did I mention desserts? There are the standards, all up to par: tiramisu, chocolate mousse, and vanilla ice cream. Oh yes. There's one more. Uh-huh. You guessed it. Leave enough space in your stomach for Gilroy's Famous Garlic Ice Cream-in case you didn't get enough of that which we call a stinking rose-by any other name would taste so sweet.

$$-$$$

The Stinking Rose
325 Columbus Avenue (between Vallejo and Broadway)
San Francisco, CA 94133
415-781-7673
Open daily from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

GTB TIPS

DRESS UP YOUR SALAD!

Are you sick of salads? Switch your dressing for a break from the same
old, same old. If you always reach for Ranch, go for Balsamic
Vinaigrette. If Blue Cheese is your favorite, try Honey Mustard or
Creamy Italian. Experiment with new flavor sensations by
taking a chance on one of many specialty dressings, such as Stonewall
Kitchen's Champagne Shallot Walnut Dressing or Annie's Naturals'
Organic Papaya Poppy Seed Dressing. Just remember to watch your fat
grams, as not all dressings are created equally. Some mayonnaise- and
oil-based salad dressings have as many as 30 grams of fat per
tablespoon, but don't automatically avoid those high-calorie options.
Instead, try the old dieter's trick of putting the dressing on the
side. Then slightly dip the prongs of your fork in it before you take
the next bite. You won't sacrifice the taste, and perhaps you'll
discover that eating your veggies isn't so bad after all.

Mama's Fish House, North Shore, Maui, Hawaii

ALOHA MAMA'S!

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

"You've gotta go to Mama's," everyone told me before my first trip to Hawaii, referring to Mama's Fish House on Maui's North shore. To get there, my husband and I passed through the artsy community of Pa'ia, near the beginning of the long, twisty-windy road to Hana that most visitors will drive only once. But a trip to Mama's is one worth experiencing again and again.

Family-owned Mama's Fish House is not a cheap diner like the name implies. The island's first fresh fish restaurant, founded in 1973, is fine dining on one of the most picturesque white sand beaches you'll ever set foot. Every dish is exquisitely presented as individual works of edible art. But don't plan on dropping in and finding an available table. Mama's Fish House is legendary. Make a reservation for lunch or before sundown, and ask to be seated along the wall of open windows for that spectacular ocean view and the gentle sound of the surf.

The restaurant is casual yet elegant, reminiscent of the Polynesian culture before Maui became a trendy vacation destination. When guests enter through the bar, they first notice the stunning floral arrangements of birds of paradise, heliconias and bromeliads, the rich mango wood interior, blue Tahitian-style tablecloths and native artifacts placed throughout. Even the bathrooms are tastefully decorated with old Hawaiian photographs, historical accounts of the 1938 earthquake and newspaper clippings from WWII.

The menu changes regularly depending on the availability of fresh fish, and you won't find chicken or steak. Mainly caught from the deep waters nearby, the fishermen are listed alongside their catches. Most recently I had the ahi, spearfish and mahimahi sautéed in panang curry and coconut milk, with a tablespoon-size sides of mango chutney, tiny diced bananas, and chopped macadamia nuts, with jasmin rice and lomi lomi salmon. Mama's Macademia Nut Crab Cakes with a fire and ice relish is also an excellent choice made with real chunks of flaky crabmeat.

My husband had the "Pua Me Hua Hana" in the style of old Hawaii, which is a regular offering. This dish features monchong and mahimahi sautéed in coconut milk with shredded, slow-cooked Kalua pig wrapped in a palm husk, a half of a small grilled banana, a purple Molokai sweet potato, star fruit slices, a leche nut in its wirey shell and a half of a fresh coconut. You won't find this kind of cuisine just anywhere, so if you are curious about traditional Hawaiian food, this dish will introduce you to quite a variety.

The Asian-influenced appetizers are popular, including premium-quality sashimi served seared or as a salad, and Shrimp Won Tons. The specialty drinks are expensive, but go ahead—splurge, since the bill is going to be big anyway. I was a disappointed in the rum and fruit liqueur Mai Tai Roa Ae, which our waiter said was "why they (meaning the tourists) come." Next time I'll try the Scorpion, made with four rums and tropical juices. Non-alcoholic specialty drinks are available too, such as the Strawberry Guava fizz, which was refreshing and not too sweet.

If you like chocolate, try Mama's Chocolate Kuau Pie baked in a caramel cookie crust or better yet, go for the beautifully-presented Polynesian Black Pearl, rich chocolate mousse and passion fruit cream in a pastry shell made to look like an oyster shell. For coconut lovers, don't leave the island without a taste of Haukalima, made with coconut ice cream, Maui pineapple and papaya with tropical liqueurs. And don't forget to order a private estate coffee supplied by local growers to go with your dessert--a perfect end to the meal. And to think we had to travel across the ocean to enjoy it.

While I've never stayed at the Inn at Mama's, visitors can book a beachfront or garden cottage for a three-day minimum, complete with full kitchens and lana'i—what islanders call porches—and take advantage of those soft, salty breezes off the ocean. Check out the videos of the restaurant and the Inn at Mama's by going to www.mamasfishhouse.com.

$$$-$$$$

Mama's Fish House Restaurant, open daily
799 Poho Place, Paia, Hawaii 96779
info@mamasfishhouse.com (808) 579-8488
Hours:
Open Daily
Lunch: 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. - Light Menu: 2:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. - Dinner: 4:30 to 9:30 p.m.



VIEW FROM MAMA'S FISH HOUSE

Hannah's Off-the-Square Restaurant, Denton, Texas

GOING FOR THE GOLD

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

I feel like I am sitting in the lap of greatness. Chef de Cuisine Sheena Croft approaches cooking like an Olympic athlete competes: going for the gold, and then trying again. More often than not, she not only succeeds, but breaks her own record.

Case in point: I've been on a mission to find the best ever Caesar salad. Wherever I go, I make a point to order it. As it turns out, I don’t need to look beyond than my own backyard for it is to be found at upscale, unpretentious Hannah’s Off-the-Square.

Whenever I made comparisons between restaurants, Hannah’s Caesar came out on top. Then the chef, soon-to-be famous Sheena Croft, revamped the menu. I shared my disappointment with Jesse, our waiter, when I discovered that my beloved salad was gone. He expressed his sympathy.

“Why don’t you try our new-and-improved Caesar?” he asked.

How could he suggest it? I thought. It had taken forever to find “The One." I felt hurt and betrayed. It was too soon. I wasn’t ready.

“Well, o-kay.” I gave in. Jesse grinned as he took the menu from me. “You won’t be disappointed. I promise.”

I wasn’t. Instead, I was amazed. Chef Sheena Croft created a new Caesar with a twist on the old. She drizzled the same creamy, slightly tart, garlic dressing over a heart of Romaine rather than the usual torn lettuce, and added shaved parmesan instead of shredded. The hand-torn brown sugar croutons were a light, crunchy addition.
Hannah’s garners awards in other categories too. I'm partial to the cedar-planked salmon glazed with brown sugar, crushed red pepper and butter, which made the cut from the old menu to the new. The dark, earthy au poivre sauce that accompanies the beef tenderloin and the hamburger is rich and elegant. My choice for lunch, Hannah's veggie burger, on a whole grain bun with sun-dried tomato mayonnaise, avocado and a side of Waffle fries, might rank right up there with the Caesar salad.

A few items on the menu fall short. I’d pass on the roasted rosemary chicken that isn’t worth the twenty-plus minutes it takes to prepare. The pan-seared trout, a nice albeit uninspired piece of fish, is worth ordering for its sides; the thickly-cut fried green tomatoes paired with fresh Dallas mozzarella cheese and a tomato, red onion and basil salad make for a satisfying meld of flavors.

I don't have to look for the world’s most divine carrot cake. Hands down, Hannah’s has it. Call it a religious experience or call it a vegetable serving. The two pounds of freshly-grated carrots in each cake qualify it as a guilt-free dessert. The cake is layered with a sumptuous cream cheese frosting, topped with spaghetti-like curls of fresh carrots with an orange slice on the side. These decorations don't only make for a pretty presentation but enhance the taste. Trust me.

The restaurant offers one-time menus periodically for holidays and special occasions. Here Croft’s sail takes wind and her creativity takes hold. These are not simply meals, but often unforgettable events. The 100-mile meal last November was made from ingredients that she found locally. Croft spent months preparing. During the meal she and Wine Steward Ian Whitcomb shared their passion for the project. It was a singular experience.

I enjoy hanging out at Hannah’s bar, a comfortable place to meet friends for a specialty martini or a glass of wine, half-off by the glass on Tuesdays. For a quick bite, I order off of the Tapas and Mezze menu. The sweet chili calamari replaced the fried calamari that was once my favorite appetizer. Once again, Croft took her chances by taking the original off the menu. Did she get the gold? Who am I to decide? It's your turn to be the judge.

$$-$$$

Hannah's Off-the Square, 111 West Mulberry, Denton, Texas
(940) 566-1110 www.hannahsoffthesquare.com
Hours:
Lunch - Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Brunch - Saturday & Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Dinner - Sunday & Monday, 4:30 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Tues through Thurs 4:30 p.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m.
Happy Hour - Monday through Friday, 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.; Saturday & Sunday 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Originally published on Good Taste Buds Food and Travel Review Site, February 2, 2008
Modified on September 30, 2008

Yummy's Greek Restaurant, Denton, Texas

LET’S GO FALAFELING!

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Can you Spanakopita? Dare to Dolma? Try Tahini or Baba Ghanouj? Yes, you too can go Greek when you dine at Yummy’s Restaurant in Denton, Texas.

Don’t judge Yummy’s by its postage-stamp size or its location in a tiny strip-mall off a main commercial drag. This hole-in-the-wall only seats thirty-six at one time, and has been a local favorite, serving up traditional Greek food to appreciative customers, since 1986.

It’s nearly two o’clock in the afternoon when I arrive. The only booth open is by the door—a little too chilly to be seated there—so I opt for a table near the cash register, where a kid wearing a ballcap is paying for his meal. I can hear the owner, busy in the kitchen, talking in Lebanese to the girl at the register. The place hasn’t changed much, if at all, since I first ate there twenty years ago--the same lime green booths, the mirrored wall that makes this cubby-hole seem bigger than it is, and the posters of Greece, Lebanon and Italy that make me hungry for travel in addition to the food.

I can safely say that I’ve ordered just about everything off the menu at one time or another, but certain favorites call to me every time I come. I wouldn’t dream of eating at Yummy’s without ordering one of the dips, either the hummus tahini, made of blended chickpeas, or the baba ghanouj, made of eggplant. Both are presented with olive oil and a black olive in the center and come served with a basket of plump pita bread slightly warm from the grill. I’m also fond of the lentil soup, a creamy, but not too thick version that’s perfect on a day like today.

Of the sandwiches, the Gyro (yeer-oh), a rotisseried combination of beef and lamb, is Yummy’s most popular seller, but I often order the grilled chicken souvlaki with a side of tzatziki—a light yogurt cucumber dip. Falafel, a fried ball of spiced chickpeas, is the vegetarian favorite, and all three can be made “supreme” by adding hummous and tabbouli, made with parsley.

Yummy’s serves several combination plates, which I highly recommend for an overall Greek food experience. The Yummy’s Feast or Mixed Grill for two are terrific for meat lovers, combining everything Greek on one plate with a side Greek salad with feta cheese. Vegetarians won’t go hungry either; there’s plenty for them on the menu as well, including a Veggie Combo plate and two appetizer platters. The moussaka can be ordered with or without meat, and practically everything on the menu can be ordered a la carte. A Greek meal isn't complete without baklava for dessert. Yummy's is a rich, but slighly dry version that combines walnuts with honey and thin layers of phyllo dough.

Souvlaki? Tabbouli? Moussaka? Baklava? Is this all Greek to you? No worries. Forget the names and explanations. The descriptions won’t mean anything to you until you taste them anyway. The best way to experience Greek food is to simply dig in.

$-$$

Yummy’s Greek Restaurant, 210 W. University Drive, Denton, TX (940) 383-2441
Hours: Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; and Sunday, 12 p.m. to 9 p.m.

Miguelito's Mexican Restaurant, Krum, TX

MIGUELITO'S MAKES ITS MARK

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

What’s the mark of a successful restaurant? If it works once, do it again. If two is even better, then why not? Go for three! Three hits, and you've got a home run.

That’s what Miquelito’s Mexican Restaurant has done. Owners Vinny and Diana Cruz started with “good” in downtown Krum, Texas and is only getting better. After Krum proved successful, they built a restaurant and bar in Sanger, easily accessed from Interstate-35 going to or from Oklahoma from Texas. Now Denton, the apex of the Dallas/Fort Worth metroplex, has a Miguelito’s too, with a full-service bar and a large outdoor patio.

Its customers tend to be partial to whichever location they frequent. My favorite is in Krum. The restaurant itself is nothing fancy, well-worn (well-loved?) and out of the way—that is, unless you’re passing through town. There’s no daily specials, no dress code, no placemats or table cloths on the plain wooden tables. Those who repeatedly come to Mig’s—as it’s affectionately called by those of us who can’t get enough of it—come to eat.

Mig’s customers tend to be partial to their favorite dishes too, often sticking with one and never venturing beyond. A friend who has been going to Mig’s for years always orders the Number 9 from the lunch menu, which translates as two beef enchiladas with rice and beans. My husband orders the succulent grilled shrimp fajitas or the grilled chicken fajita nachos with added onions. I tend to go for the chicken and spinach quesadillas and add verde (green) sauce. That, with a side of Mig’s guacamole or a bowl of warm chile con queso is, as my husband says, “just about right.”

Those who love Tex-Mex can always get all of the standard fare: fajitas, nachos, quesadillas, flautas, tacos, enchiladas, chimichangas and huevos rancheros. Those who want more authentic Mexican food should order off the dinner menu and try the Beef Steak a la Mexicana made with filet mignon, or the Shrimp a la Parilla, made with the same butterflied shrimp as the grilled fajitas, but with cheese, zucchini, corn and rice. Where else can you get Nopalitos con Puerco en Chili Rojo: braised port with cactus strips? But hey, if none of that grabs you, order the cheeseburger. Surprise! It’s good too.

It’s best to scrape off some of the Monterey Jack cheese off of many of their selections, and beware of snarfing too many chips that come with the salsa before the meal, addictive on most days, occasionally too hot on others. Skip the Cheesecake Chimi, but find room for a bite of traditional flan or a warm sopapilla. (That’s Spanish for Mmmm, mmmm, good!)

Our deepest condolences go to Vinny Cruz, his family, and the Serna family for the passing of our friend, Diana Cruz, on June 12, 2009. She was a wonderful woman and a pillar of the North Texas community. She is greatly missed by all who knew and loved her.

$-$$

Miguelito’s Restaurants:
241 W. McCart, Krum, TX (940) 482-7007
Hours: Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Closed Monday

1412 N. Stemmons Blvd., (I-35), Sanger, TX (940) 458-0073
Hours: Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Closed Monday

420 E. McKinney Ave., Denton, TX (940) 566-1671
Hours: Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Chestnut Tree Tea Room, Denton, TX

CHESTNUT TREE AND TEA FOR ME

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

My blood pressure drops by degrees when I walk through the primrose and ivy-covered arbor into Chestnut Tree Garden Tea Room, on the south side of the square in historical downtown Denton, Texas. The soothing background music calms my soul, as does the soft lighting, the gentle clatter of silverware and dishes, and the murmur of light, friendly conversation.

I relax and soak up the warmth of the room. I am surrounded by faux greenery that creates the illusion of a garden courtyard. The sunny-yellow walls are the backdrop for a revolving display of paintings and photographs by area artists mixed among floral tapestries. An assortment of miniature chandeliers and standing lamps provide most of the light in the room, and the cheerful white tables are dressed with hunter green cloth napkins and fanciful salt-and-pepper shakers. Above me, grapevines intertwine with tiny white lights, a bouquet of baskets hangs from the ceiling, and birdhouses and butterflies abound.

I feel a bit like a little girl at a tea party except that I am surrounded by mostly middle-aged-and-older women as well as a few men. Charles, my waiter, brings a napkin-lined basket of mini-muffins to the table and takes my drink order. I choose the passion fruit-flavored tea and pop the irresistible muffins in my mouth, one after another, first smearing them with Chestnut Tree's extravagant honey and strawberry butters. I'm off to a good start.

It is late and the usual busy lunch crowd is thinning, so Charles has the leisure to spend some time with me. Based on his suggestions, I choose a variation on the tea plate sampler from the menu. We talk about the celebrities who have eaten at Chestnut Tree, including Kathy Bates and Renee Zellweger, as well as the Denton-based rock band, Midlake, that filmed part of their Hometown Texas town video for MTV in the restaurant. Noticing that I've downed another glass while we chatted, Charles brings me black current iced tea this time--his favorite--to sip on until my lunch arrives. I feel like I'm getting the royal treatment, even if I'm not Renee Zellweger or Kathy Bates.

Let's talk food. Any sandwich on Chestnut Tree's signature beer bread is a winner. While there are seven other bread choices, the beer bread makes an otherwise ordinary ham and swiss or turkey breast sandwich unforgettable. The egg and chicken salads, not too soggy nor dry, are cut above homemade. The chicken and basil quiche is a sure bet, but so are all five varieties of quiche that sell out every day. I could make a meal of the side broccoli salad it's so yummy, but if I wanted a just a salad for lunch, I'd go with the spinach or the Caesar. I suggest you save enough room for Chestnut Tree's most popular dessert—the Strawberry Pretzel, a typical southern dish made from Jell-O, whipped and cream cheese with a pretzel-butter crust.

Before I leave, Charles brings me a Peach iced tea to go (it is a tea room, after all), and I take a moment to check out the gift shop that I passed on the way in. I thumb through the restaurant's cookbook. If you can't make it to Denton to eat at Chestnut Tree, then order the book, which has many of this lunch spot's best recipes, for $12.95 plus tax and $5.95 shipping by e-mailing chestnuttree@verizon.net. In my opinion, it's worth double the price.

Try this popular soup recipe from the new Chestnut Tree Tea Room Cookbook, and let me know what you think:

Chestnut Tree Tea Room's Baked Potato Soup

4 large baking potatoes
2/3 C. butter or margarine
2/3 C. all-purpose flour
6 C. milk
3/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
4 green onions, chopped and divided
12 slices bacon, cooked, crumbled, divided
1-1/4 C. shredded Cheddar cheese, divided
1 (8-oz.) carton of sour cream

Wash potatoes and prick several times with fork; bake at 400 degrees for 1 hour or until done. Let cool. Cut potatoes in half lengthwise; then scoop out pulp. Melt butter in heavy saucepan over low heat; add all-purpose flour, stirring until smooth. Cook 1 minute, sitrring constantly. Gradually add 6 cups milk; cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens and bubbles. Add potato pulp, salt, pepper, 2 TBS. green onion, 1/2 C. bacon and 1 cup cheese. Cook until thoroughly heated; stir in sour cream. Add extra milk, if necessary, for desired thickness. Serve with remaining onion, bacon and cheese. Yield: 10 cups.

$-$$

Chestnut Tree Tea Room
107 W. Hickory Street, Denton, TX (940) 591-9475
Tea Room Hours: Monday through Saturday 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

Gift Shop Hours: Monday 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Finn and Porter, DoubleTree Hotel Missoula/Edgewater, Missoula, MT

BEAM ME UP TO MONTANA, SCOTTY!

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

If I could snap my fingers and be anywhere, I'd choose Missoula, Montana. It's easy to get there. Just take a commuter plane out of Denver International and you'll land an hour and a half later. Make sure to nab a window seat so you can see the Rockies from the air and catch a glimpse of Missoula waiting in the valley for your arrival.

When (not if) you go, stay at the DoubleTree Hotel Missoula/Edgewater near downtown at the University of Montana. Not only is this Hilton-owned property conveniently located, but it has a first-class restaurant, the Finn & Porter. A close-to-perfect experience is sitting outside during the summer on the restaurant's deck, surrounded by potted purple pansies, overlooking the Clark Fork River. When it's cold, I sit by one of many tables next to the glass wall of windows. I can easily get lost in thought watching a fly-fisherman casting his line or a heron waiting patiently for his breakfast to swim by.

Speaking of breakfast, may I suggest the oatmeal with fresh mangos and fruit on the side? Or, for something a little more substantial, try the feta cheese omelet with asparagus. For lunch, I love to order the house-roasted ruby red beet salad or the grilled chicken cobb salad. It doesn't get much better—or healthier—than this. Blow the diet on the crispy calamari, which comes with carmelized lemons and peppers—rare fare that you won't find just anywhere.

You can't go wrong with a good steak at dinner, and my husband and I pair it with a bottle from the restaurant's full-page wine list. If we're in the mood to nibble, we sit at the large, circular bar in the center of "The Finn" and order a pick-and-choose anti pasta platter from the appetizer menu. I'm hungry just thinking about it.

Finn & Porter restaurants also exist in Austin, Texas, Alexandria, Virginia and Washington, D.C., but so far I've only eaten at the one in Missoula. Anyone have any info to share about the others?

BTW, when you call for reservations, book a room on the hotel's riverside. It's worth the price of the whole trip for the good night's sleep, snoozing to the soothing river rippling by, buried under the blankets while the chilly mountain air dances around you.

I could go on and on about Missoula and Western Montana, but if you start here, you'll discover your own version of this lil bit o' heaven on earth.

$$-$$$

Finn & Porter Missoula at the DoubleTree/Edgewater Hotel
100 Madison, Missoula, MT (406) 542-4660; www.finnandporter.com/missoula
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, including holidays.

I Love Sushi Restaurant, Denton, TX (near Dallas/Fort Worth)

I love sushi at I LOVE SUSHI!

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Good sushi? In TEXAS? Check out I Love Sushi, the Japanese restaurant in Denton, north of Dallas and Fort Worth. The place could use a renovation, and the name and Korean owners have changed several times, but never fear: as of January 2008, I Love Sushi will make you love sushi too.

To be honest, I like their sushi rolls the best. I just can't get enough of 'em. I ought to know, since I eat here at least four times a week.

Let me explain: A sushi roll is made for Americans, who tend to like food on the sweet side--it's definitely not a Japanese creation. If you want to eat real Japanese sushi, stick to what's called Nigiri. That's a bite-sized piece of fish, often times raw, draped over a clump of compressed rice with a little wasabi dabbed in between. If you're not sure you like Japanese food, first try the ever-popular California roll, made from (sometimes artificial) crabmeat. It's good. Really!

My favorite is called the Alaska Roll. (The name changes, depending on the restaurant.) At I Love Sushi, the Alaska roll is a California roll topped with raw salmon and avocado. Delish! I also like the Denton Roll (again, named as such at I Love Sushi) made with raw tuna, avocado and cream cheese. But the best of all is the Spicy Tuna Roll, made with, yep, you guessed it! I like it better than it likes me, if you know what I mean, but doesn't stop me from ordering it every time I go to I Love Sushi.

If you aren't into raw fish, that's okay. Order the Chicken Teriyaki or the Chicken Yaki Udon for the best chicken noodle soup ever. The tempura is mighty fine too. Order a traditional Bento box for a variety and to save a few pennies. Otherwise, bring plenty of Yen.

Fortunately, Dallasites don't have to pedal to Denton because another, more upscale version of I Love Sushi is located in North Dallas on Preston Road at Frankford Road.

$$-$$$

I Love Sushi, 917 Sunset Street, Denton, TX (940) 891-6060
I Love Sushi, 18101 Preston Road, Dallas, TX (972) 248-2100

Wisteria Restaurant, Atlanta, GA

WHAT'S NOT TO LIKE ABOUT WISTERIA?

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

Wisteria Restaurant, located close to the Carter Center near downtown Atlanta, is the kind of trendy that never goes out of style. Dress up or don't bother, this affordable, understated restaurant has its priorities in the right place. The hardwood floors, brick walls, and simple but elegant lighting and décor are a mere backdrop for the main event—the meal. Owner and Chef Jason Hill chose his nouveau-southern-style menu and wine selections carefully for pleasing popularity. I had the to-die-for homemade Pumpkin Ravioli and a garlicky Caesar salad, and my husband chose the lightly-breaded fried calamari and the All Natural Iron Skillet Half Chicken, which he pronounced "the best chicken he'd ever had."

We left room for dessert, but only after we found out that they were small. Ah, but we could order three for only $10—how could we resist? We opted for the carrot cake with bourbon sauce (too sweet), the dark cherry and port wine tart (too tart) and the traditional vanilla crème brulee (just right!).

We went on a Sunday night, perfect for a romantic dinner out, but we hear this place is noisy on the weekends. Make a reservation if you want a guaranteed seat.

$$-$$$

Wisteria, 471 North Highland Avenue, Atlanta, GA (404) 525-3363
Sunday thru Thursday, 5:30 – 10 p.m., Friday & Saturday 5:30 – 11 p.m.
www.wisteria-atlanta.com

Okefenokee Restaurant, Folkston, GA

LOOKIN' FOR HOME COOKIN'?

by Ellen "EJ" Sackett

On the way to the Okefenokee Swamp in Georgia, my husband and I had a hankering for some southern cuisine. It was lunchtime on Saturday, and as we drove through Folkston, we spied a restaurant with a parking lot crammed full. "Either this restaurant is the best in town, or it's the only one in town!" I said. We took our chances and stopped at the aptly named Okefenokee Restaurant.

We weren't disappointed. Here we found plenty of friendly folks and good eats. We chose the buffet ($7.50) over the menu and chowed down on melt-in-your-mouth breaded porkchops, killer fried chicken, traditional biscuits and cornbread, savory stewed tomatoes, brown-sugar sweet potatoes and perhaps the best coleslaw I've ever had. That's not all the Okeenokee Restaurant offered up, just what I could fit inside my right leg. And I made sure to pick up the last two jars of pumpkin butter on the way out.

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Okefenokee Restaurant, 103 S. 2nd Street, Folkston, GA (912) 496-3263
Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.